My VX idle bounces when rolling in neutral
I'm puzzled by bouncy idle on my 1994 VX - It idles fine most of the time, except when rolling in neutral (e.g. coming to a stop light) the idle bounces up and down between 800 and 1200RPM; as soon as the car stops completely, the idle stays steady at around 900RPM.
A bit of history on that VX: When I got the car this past winter it had bouncing idle at all times after the car would warm up - I replaced O2 sensor, spark plugs, cleaned EGR, cleaned IACV and cleaned throttle body and checked resistance of TPS with no effect on the idle. A few months ago I got a junk VX engine and swapped IACV - that fixed the idle when the car was not moving, but still had a problem when the car was rolling in neutral. A month ago I picked up 92 VX that is Canadian model; it idles fine. I swapped IACV between 92 and 94 VX. After the swap - 92 VX continued to idle fine; 94 VX started to have bouncy idle when at stop AND when rolling in neutral. Now I swapped IACVs back and 92 VX continues to idle fine; and 94 VX now idles fine at stop, but bounces when rolling in neutral, so that condition is repeatable ... I made sure to drain air out of coolant lines when doing IACV swaps and checked coolant level. What can this be? Thanks Ross |
I just got a vx about a month ago, and I have the same exact problem. No other problems, the car seems fine except for the fluctuating idle while rolling in neutral. 93 VX. Sorry I have no suggestions, just thought I'd chime in...
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Have you checked your PCV? It's a very common problem with Honda's and Toyota's, I've had both having the same problem where the idle would bounce up and down as you are describing, and replaced the PCV and problem fixed. They are cheap too, 5 to 15 dollars.
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PCV? Positive Crankcase Vent? Where is that on these motors? I know it's on the valve cover on a sbc, but can't seem to find one on this honda...
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Be aware that the VX PCV is merely a hollow 90deg tube with no 'one-way' valve in it (that is down by the collector box on the engine) so when they sell you one at the parts store, be sure to get the right one. Sounds like it could be a vacuum leak (what isn't!) Cleaning is a great start to help narrow things down but isn't always a cure-all. One idea... did you reset the ECU after cleaning? This is done by simply pulling the 'backup' fuse(should be labled as such) for about 30 sec (with the car off, of course) and putting it back in. This should be done , btw after any kind of work on any part (or system) that has an electrical connection. One other thing that may have happened, is that after the cleaning, your Throttle body might be feeding too much air into the system and the ecu is trying to constantly adjust. Download the Helms manual (don't have a link but google it) and follow the procedure for adjusting idle. After I rebuilt my intake manifold, I had a similar problem. *Properly* adjusting the idle fixed it for me after the cleaning. As I recall (but VERIFY w/manual), the procedure is to pull the IACV connector after the car is warm, adjusting the idle to a bit below normal idle speed (normal=600rpm?). Turn the car off, reconnect everything, remembering to reset the ecu. ...more as it comes to me. |
Vehicle speed sensor? Most cars will idle around 1300-1600 rpm until the car speed drops below a certain level, it is i think 20mph on my car but if your speed sensor is giving crazy readings it could be getting confused as to what idle to run at.
Since it's a 1994(not OBD2) it may not throw a check engine light for a bad VSS. It may not even have any checks for a bad VSS and wont throw a code for it. |
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Sounds to me like you might have an issue with a vacuum leak, or your throttle body might not be sealing properly, or your TPS isn't working correctly. GL figuring this out. I had a similar issue with my old VX motor, but with that motor it would just die while in neutral after it got warmed up making it so I always had to be on the gas a little bit. |
Thanks to all replies!
I'll try swapping PCV valve with my other VX and see if that helps, then try Throttle body and then manifold assembly. scrappy312 - I'll put an update here if I get it solved, hopefully this weekend. Ross |
Your idle is set too high. Specification is 600 +/- 50 RPM with no load on the engine.
Paraphrasing the service manual: Warm the engine up to operating temperature (cooling fan should come on), hook up a tachometer and disconnect the IACV connector... The engine will likely stall. Slightly depress the accelerator pedal and restart the engine. Stabilize the idle at 1000, then slowly let off the pedal until the engine idles. Check that all accessories are switched off. Idle speed should be 420 +/- 50 RPM, adjust if necessary (the idle adjust screw is a brass screw on top of the throttle body, next to the MAP sensor). Switch the ignition off, reconnect the IACV and remove the BACK UP fuse from the under hood fuse box for 10 seconds to reset the ECU. Restart the engine and let it idle for 1 minute under no-load conditions. Idle speed should be 600 +/- 50 RPM. |
Only reset the idle using an engine analyzer or a timing light with a tach on it. Your in-car tach is not accurate to what you need it to be. The tach in my tracker reads 6500 rpm when the engine is actually at 6750. Large margin of error.
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