itjstagame -

Ha ha, the harbor freight multimeter is the *exact* one I used to calibrate the A/F gauge.

Just use the word "thrifty" instead :D .

Here is what Jaycar says :

I think the digital display is an average.

Another option that I am thinking about is an analog multimeter. There is a lag in the way the needle moves (inertia), but you might see a better "averaging" in the way it shows the 02 voltage. It also looks like a real gauge, if you think about it, :) .

CarloSW2

I understand, now. If I wanted maximum fuel economy on flat I'd accelerate to 45 and adjust my foot to TPS 6 or 7 and leave it there steady. Result would be between 65 and 70 mpg, if I recall correctly.

Now really, who wants to drive that slow other than just to test it?

If it causes your IGN to retard its going to reduce MPG.

I stil say it works on mine.

I believe that you have documented enough proof that it does work for you. I was hoping that since we have similar vehicles that it was going to work for me as well, but after seeing a drop in mileage I aborted the mission. Guess all cars aren't created equal.

If you can get the ACTUAL Air temp to 150 to 190, that is going to give best results without trying to trick the system. I still say maximum results will be gained by both getting heated air AND tricking it a bit beyond there to try to lean it out some. The key to that on my experiments was that if I tried to trick it too much it would ping and retard spark.

I still think the settings I'd want optimally would be about 224f IAT with 175f actual air temp and 190f or less water temp. This would try to lean it the differential between 224f - 175f air, beyond the 14.7 to 1 I would think it would be trying for, and at the same time be cool enough not to retard spark.

I guess I could prove it by making 2 runs, one with the IAT tricked to 224f and the other where its switched to use the sensor's actual reading, because mine typically gets to about 175f in the summer anyway. I could watch IGN to see if there was any difference in spark advance between the two. The only flaws in the test I can think of would be does the computer need to relearn things and does the scangage need to be recalibrated.

I assume you had to change the fuel consumption adjustment on the scangage? Are you sure you had it calibrated correctly initially? And how much did you need to change it by when you went back to sensor only?

skewbe -

EDIT : Nevermind on the question, DiamondLarry verified that the gears are indeed for an MP2 economy tranny.

I have the gasket kit too (for the whole transmission).

I just talked to my mechanic today. He normally farms out tranny repairs, but he doesn't have his "reliable and reasonable" tranny repair dude anymore. I explained to him how easy it was from a saturnfans post, and this coming Friday I will bring it to him to do the swap.

What else do I need to know for the swap? I want to give him maximum info to minimize surprises.

Here's the new gears (they're in tranny oil when not in the air). Do they look like the right ones? :

Small Gear :
Attachment 824

Large Gear:
Attachment 825

CarloSW2

From the looks of the above with lovemysan, it may be that the hot air intake is what's causing the improvement if the scanguage is lying about mpg becuase it needs to be recalibrated for resistor or no resistor. If that's so, my T/A gets 32+ mpg highway, lol, because it doesn't have a hot air intake, and as a matter of fact has a cold ram air unit on it.

My Saturn has both the resistor and HAI, and to be honest, anymore it uses so little fuel (less than a tank a month), the only time its worth tracking MPG is when I'm on a trip, and then I top it up at a pump before and after, so I know the numbers are right regardless of the scangauge.

Unfortunately, if what these guys are saying is true, I can't switch from sensor to resistor without needing to recalibrate which makes it a big hassle because I don't drive a lot except when I go on a trip, and when I go on a trip, that's when I want the best possible MPG's out of it.