Kiker SPark Plug Wires
 

I just received my Kiker SPark Plug wires in the mail. Tomorrow I go into emmissions to test, then put on thekikers and go in later to see results.....

Er....wouldn't "kiker" be an anti-semitic slur?

i didn't get my 2nd emmissions test done today, but had the kikers on and I seem to be getting a smoother ride and a little better acceleration.......I'll have to go thru a tank of gas before I CAN TELL WHAT MPG increase I'm getting.....alotta peoplea re claiming 3 to 7 mpg increase fromusing these wires..... I can beleive it, especially becasue I'm an electrical contractor and know all about resistences that can come from the lamo nature of spark plug wires.

Nope, Googled them...they exist. Also a Kiker Elementary school, a roofing company, and other stuff.

Their description of how the spark plug wires (and the battery boosters) work kinda leave me scratching my head, but then again, I've only been playing around with electronics for about 40 years or so, so maybe I don't know everything...but I love their description of how they work...

Warning!...quote from Kiker wires website ahead...(with my italics/bold/underlines)

My knowledge of electronics may be a little hazy, but since when did a magnetic field by itself create a spark? What chokes are normally found on spark plug wires which need to have their "henrys enhanced"? How does one "space out the delivery of the milliamps" to the spark plug? What is the third energy? I would expect the electrical energy, I'll give a pass on the magnetic (for argument's sake), but what was the third?

The wires have almost zero resistance...OK, so it's a wire, not a carbon-impregnated thread like most are. What does this do to the radio? Not to mention the radios of every car around you?

They produce a multiple spark in each wire...EGADS! I want my spark at the spark plug gap, not in the wire! (OK, they probably mis-wrote it...)

Ionization...they're going to put positive (or is it negative) energy in the fuel...the fuel will be happier and healthier going into the engine. Which SEEMS to help the motor run smoother. Don't you love such precise descriptions?

They are kinda cool looking...and they may even give a better spark due to being non-resistive wires. But I'm afraid their description of how they work is pure bullcaca.

Maybe that little choke in the center does something to the radio noise? Nah, probably not...

https://kikerperformance.com/products.htm

If the choke is grounded it's possible to run 0 resistance wires to the plug and not have an issue with EMI like Nology does with their hot wires. Halfway down their products page I noticed a water4gas link btw.

The only thing about 0 resistance wires is that unless you pair them with a non-resistor spark plug you've still got a resistor in the circuit. 30-40 ohms per foot vs 0-5 doesn't make much of a difference when a spark plug typically has 4000-12000 ohms in it.

The resistance plays a part when the plug is actually firing, a resistor is an excellent way to filter EMI but it is also a current limiting device meaning that energy is lost as heat there. You of course can't run a fully non-resistor ignition system in anything with electronics.

Could they work? Maybe, but from my experience you want a single VERY hot spark, not a bunch of little ones.

I have Kiker Performance wires on my 1986 Toyota 2wd pickup, 4 cylinder, 22R carbereuted engine.

I measured miles per gallon for ten tanks before and five tanks with Kiker wires. 4% more mpg, and a first step to going back to low octane gas from highest octane. I have a lot of carbon buildup at 350,000 miles, which raised compression, so I had to run highest octane gas to avoid pinging and running rough.

I got all the way to low octane gas, no pinging, by adding 1 oz Ethos and 2oz Xylol per 10 gallon tank of gas. Total savings are 4% mpg+ from Kiker wires, 5% cost savings from high to low octane, and 15% mpg+ from adding 1oz Ethos and 2oz Xylol per 10 gallons of gas. 25% mpg+ without a fuel warmer or hho!

If you try acetone, make it 100% only, not paint store or hardware store or lumberyard acetone which is only 90% and the additives prevent mpg gains. Try beauty supply or auto painting supply for 100% acetone. I have not tried acetone yet, but the mix would be total 3 oz of additives. That could be 1oz Ethos, 1oz acetone, 1oz xylol. Then there is boric acid, to add to acetone.

I usually use Bosch four conductor platinum plugs. Platinum(or palladium) plugs do not erode so they are the best for longterm consistent use. People who "hate platinum" are performance tuners who want to read their plugs. They read their non-platinum plugs, tune for performance, then their plugs erode fast but they just replace them. Platinum is longer lasting and consistent, which is what we want for mpg.

yea but some engines ignition systems don't work well with platinums...just because the plug fits the hole doesn't mean it belongs there. also your supposed to check and regap the plugs every 30k miles, or leave the factory motorcraft ones in like my dad did in our aerostar for 100K miles lol

I got all the way to low octane gas, no pinging, by adding 1 oz Ethos and 2oz Xylol per 10 gallon tank of gas. Total savings are 4% mpg+ from Kiker wires, 5% cost savings from high to low octane, and 15% mpg+ from adding 1oz Ethos and 2oz Xylol per 10 gallons of gas. 25% mpg+ without a fuel warmer or hho!

Um, no. That isn't a 25%mpg improvement. First off 4+5+15=24. Secondly a 5% cost savings isn't a mpg improvement. It may reduce your overall fuel costs, but it doesn't mean your burning less fuel per mile.

I'm guessing from your numbers that you have been recording your mileage & gas usage, I'd love to see you add a garage entry for your truck and transcribe your mileage log there so we could see these improvements.

Ignition systems that don't work well with platinums are most likely non-electronic. The finer electrode on the platinum(in Bosch and NGK's case anyways) has a lower firing voltage, you might not think it's very much but at work the difference between our standard Inconel electrode plug and our Iridium tipped plugs is easily 15k volts.

On some ignition systems, especially older ones, 15k volts can be a significant timing advancement (10-15 degrees) so a car that normally runs fine will knock and end up killing not only the plug but possibly itself because of the timing advancement. Newer vehicles the advancement usually only counts for ~5 degrees at the most and the computer can easily compensate for that if it causes knock.

One solution is to voltage match the plugs, that's what I did in my car after this last round of acetone testing. I took the standard copper plugs it came with and measured voltage at 180psi @ .039" gap (about 42kV) then opened up the gap on an Iridium until it matched, I had to get a .052" gap to match the voltage between them.

Let me tell you, that Iridium at .052 runs WAY better than a stock copper at .039 even though it's the same voltage.