L2H2 for $59
 

Has anyone bought one? I just ordered, but after searching for threads about cheap L1H1 and L2H2 sensors, it's probably fake.

https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/O2-OX...spagenameZWD1V

I might be ordering one of those. It may be risky, but I'll try it. If I do, I'll post how well it worked. If it lasts a while, I may order another one as a back-up.

One reason it may be cheaper is that there apparently is no connector, you have to use butt connectors to splice in the sensor.

the seller is a power seller with 8 billion remarks. you should be good. the bosch 02s for my volvo are 150 each but if you do your own crimping they are 50. there are bargains... I have a NGK on my hx and it works fine.

I'm contemplating replacing O2 sensors as part of a major tune-up on a '97 Caravan (1 is 140,000+ miles, the other 70-80,000 miles) I'm hesitant to use the universal sensors because I'm not sure about the field splice. Is it as straight forward as advertised? Or as that guy in the movie Marathon Man said, "Is it safe?"

I used the supplied Bosch crimping kit on the 2 o2s in my volvo 850 and thy are still good 60k later- no 02 cels.

I soldered the 2 extensions into my the 4 wire and 5 wire o2s on my HX/DX and they are good too. I get the occasional "slow to warm sensor 1" code that i think might be related to the fact that I used un-shieled wire which was really dumb. It is a pretty time consuming process to lengthen o2 leads. Crimping 5 times is not so bad.

there are actually 7 wires in the sensor. 2 are a calibrated resistor built into the oem connector that matches the sensor. so I don't see how this sensor will work correctly with out the calibrated resistor for it..

https://www.techedge.com.au/vehicle/wbo2/wbsumi.htm

Interesting- I had no idea. The only way the kit could work is if you soldered to the old or correct plug that had the correct internal connections and resistor. perhaps a good kit for maintainance on a 5 wire vx, but not readily usable on a conversion from 4 wire. very good info!

"The only way the kit could work is if you soldered to the old or correct plug that had the correct internal connections and resistor"

But I think the point that's being made is this. The old connector doesn't just contain a resistor. It contains a resistor that was calibrated to match that exact sensor.

In other words, I think every L1H1 connector contains a resistor calibrated to match that exact L1H1, and it might not be the right value for some other L1H1 (or L2H2).

So "if you soldered to the old or correct plug that had the correct internal connections and resistor," you wouldn't necessarily be getting a resistor with the correct value.

Would it still work? Probably. How much of a difference would it make? Who knows. It might be the luck of the draw.

I just got a genuine Honda L1H1 sensors for our VX for $150 from some guy on ebay. It was still in the original packaging. These are (I think) $300 from the dealer.

The cheapest L1H1 O2 sensor for VX that I could find a couple months ago was from quality_auto_parts:

https://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/q..._auto_parts298

He's selling them for $178 incl. shipping. I bought it and it fixed hesitation and high fuel consumption in my VX. Now it's getting over 50mpg.

Supply of L1H1 wide-band sensors is very limited and there is a strong demand for them to use for engine tuning, so I don't think it's possible to find them for less than 150.

Sensors that sell for $50-80 on e-bay will throw CEL. It's been confirmed many times. They are for a different vehicle (Audi) and calibrated differently.

I'd go with knock-offs if the only other option was to pay $450 list price to the dealer. But with genuine wide band sensors available for under $200 I would not recommend getting substitutes.

Ross