how to attach coroplast?
 

Now that I've acquired a few coroplast signs from the primaries that have just ended, I'm wondering what's the best way to attach them to the car.

I'd like to do a grill block on my Metro. Specifically, I'm thinking of being conservative and blocking only those parts which don't have any coils behind. The lower part of the bumper has two horizontal slots that extend nearly the width of the car. These slots are divided into 4 parts by a connective part in the center, and two more just inside the headlights. I'm thinking of blocking the outer 2 parts.

So how to do it? Nylon ties through holes in the coroplast? Sheetmetal extended through the openings to provide a mounting surface and to hold screws? Tape? Glue? For that matter, can the coroplast take the beating it will get at the front, with bugs, dust, gravel and so forth smashing into it?

Now that I've acquired a few coroplast signs from the primaries that have just ended,

Glad to see you did not buy coroplast new from the store. It is always good to recycle - especially when it is a product that is made from oil.
And you got it for free to boot ! :thumbup:


So how to do it? Nylon ties through holes in the coroplast? Sheetmetal extended through the openings to provide a mounting surface and to hold screws? Tape? Glue? For that matter, can the coroplast take the beating it will get at the front, with bugs, dust, gravel and so forth smashing into it

Coroplast is some sturdy stuff. Even stones will not damage it.

I might add that the Coroplast that I have on my car was painted with flat black poster paint. It has held up to almost a year of daily driving and rains.
The stuff is cheap ( 45 cents a tube ) but best of all it is non toxic and entirely Earth friendly. Also, it stuck to my aluminum belly pan without primer. ( And is in perfect shape after almost a year of mud puddles, rain , and everyday driving.

I was able to use nylon wire ties and the existing license plate bolts to attach my grill block. The edge was sealed with silicone. Pic is in the garage.

There's no one-size-fits-all. You've just got to work with what ya got.

I've used a combination of zip-ties and sheet metal screws for my grill block. Zip-ties are probably the best way to go if you can - at least for experimenting. Although you can take a look at the grill block I made for our F150 that used carriage bolts for attachment and what I thought was a 'Ford Tough' :P look.

bzipitidoo -

I agree on zipties. They give you lots of freedom, especially if you are doing a rear-wheel cover. Just keep a side cutter plier and a bag-o-zipties in your car and you are good to go. It's also the choice of Drifters, so you can be "cool", ;)

You know you're a drifter when...
https://www.rcd1.org/phpBB2/viewtopic...4c4d20824fd2f5
CarloSW2

You could use thin steel cable, safety wire, or strong monofilament fishing line and thread it through the channels in the Coroplast, attaching to structural members on the car such as cross-bars. This would keep the Coroplast from fluttering in the turbulent flow under the car and help maintain flat shape.

In other words, use Zipties around structural members of the car, and through end-loops of line threaded through the Coroplast.

Or, put grommets through the Coroplast and Ziptie through those.

I like an aluminum or sheet metal angle bracket then screw through using low profile phillips drive self taping HVAC screws.

COzx2 used 1 1/4" polypipe screwed on the inner fender then attached his to that. Which I think is a nice clean solution. My innerfenders are plastic, so no rust!

https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...c15d861f2f.jpg