VX engine build/swap (in-progress) w/ pics
 

I'm in the middle of tearing down a JDM VX engine I got, rebuidling it w/ hopefully a slightly higher compression ratio (shaving a bit off the head and aiming for a bump from 9.3:1 to 10:1...this supposedly works for 87 octane), then swapping it into my '92 civic DX hatch...thought I'd keep track of the progress on here.

*feel free to ask questions or offer pointers...this is my first full engine build. (I've done an engine swap before, but nothing this extensive)

I bought the engine for $400 shipped to my door - it's one of those 40-60K mi JDM engines....got the contact from someone on this forum:
JDMSOURCE
www.jdmsource.ca
1 866 717 4252

car: 1992 Honda Civic hatchback DX w/ 155K miles (currently gets 40 MPG)

Goal: 55-60 MPG.

intial pics:
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...91f0261739.jpg

https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...042ad4af8a.jpg


the engine block ID has "D15B"...a bit confusing:confused: b/c the USDM VX engines have the "D15Z1" marking, but the JDM ones don't (JDM "D15B" were marked on several different trim levels...).
https://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=5895

*I confirmed that this is the JDM version of the D15Z1 once I removed the valve cover and saw that only 1 of the intake valves operated while rotating the cam pulley)
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...b4eff31792.jpg


Engine mounted to stand:
previous engine's I've worked with had holes through the rear of the engine to allow many different type of bolts to be used for mounting on an engine stand...this one require the proper threaded bolts...took a few hours to run around and find them, but eventually I got it at a local Ace Hardware. Here's the specs:
length: 120 mm
thread pitch: 1.25
diameter: M12
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...7dfbd08563.jpg

flywheel bolts: the 6 bolts to remove require a 12 sided 17mm socket. (I found it at Sears). I used a long bolt to restrict movement of the flywheel (this engine is from an automatic...so it's technically not a flywheel, but I forget the real name:o )
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...24a7dff560.jpg


updated 12-307:

Crank pulley removal:
this was a bit of a pain - I ended up putting a bolt through the auto flywheel to hold the engine from rotating...I forgot that I had an adapter (1/2" to 3/8") on the breaker bar, and ended up snapping the adapter (first broken tool for this project!:p ). But after that, I got it off w/ ease. (FYI - it's a normal threaded pulley...I had started to get worried that it was a reverse threaded pulley, but after checking online, I confirmed that I was at least going the right direction)

crank pulley:
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...542a63730f.jpg

broken adapter:
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...0bcd4233a7.jpg

Victory (pulley removed):
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...0707168661.jpg


removal of crank/rods/pistons:
here's the block w/ the head removed (the block was in great shape, crank/pistons rotating w/ little resistance and minimal play):
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...0636948d6e.jpg

1) I unbolted the rods from the crank, and had to bump the rods w/ a soft hit to get them loose...the pistons were then removed (I think they would have stayed in place even w/ the engine up-side-down, but I was worried that they'd fall out).

pic of block up-side-down w/ crank/rods/pistons still in it:
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...ebb0fc64bf.jpg

2) removed crank (after removing flywheel, rear main seal, and oil pump).
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...d5208c8134.jpg

12-5-07:
back to where I started...engine wrapped in plastic!
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...2297b674db.jpg
*I had washed the engine thouroughly, re-oiled the cylinders, then wrapped the block to prevent an oxidation (I should have all the rebuild parts within 2 days, so there's not too much of a risk w/ rust...but things tend to take longer than expected when working w/ cars:rolleyes: )


12-8-07
finnaly got enough parts to start...the Weather had caused the main freeway bewteen Portland and Seattle to be closed for several days...and guess where my parts were coming from?!:(

I installed the pistons, crank, and rear main seal tonigh:D :

the OE piston...taped to prevent damage to cylinder walls:
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...8329a8f098.jpg

last piston being tapped into place:
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...6c8e63c8e1.jpg

bottom of engine w/ piston in and blue tape:
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...dd9f6acb34.jpg


12-11-07:

oil pan painted and installed:
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...82e3ff0078.jpg

Got the head last night...it looks pretty!
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...5d6110e8fd.jpg

shaved head w/ 0.02" shaved off (a bit more than this was shaved off...it was slightly warped, so it was flattened, then another 0.02" was taken off):
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...63bcdf38e2.jpg

head installed:
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...9969ec6230.jpg

the lube that I've been used...the machine shop rec'd it.
https://www.fuelly.com/attachments/fo...b7b9ff4392.jpg

Compression Ratio Calculations:
VX engine specs: Bore 2.95", Stroke 3.33", OE CR 9.3.
Vol. of 1 Cyl: 22.74877013 in^3 =BDC Vol. of 1 cly
OE TDC Vol. of 1 cly = TDC Vol / CR = 2.446104315in^3
shaved 0.02" --> Delta Head Vol. 0.13662925 in^3 (area of cylinder cross-section *thickness shaved)
New TDC Vol. of 1 Cyl: 2.309475065 in^3
New CR 9.85019084

I'll be uploading more pics as time allows...here's where I'm at as of 12-11-07:
1) engine is almost done (need to do: timing belt, valve cover, intake/exhaust manifolds,...)
2) Cleaning/Painting valve cover...
3) got a VX ECU
4) Found a shop to do the swap for me...work has picked up considerably, so rather than letting this sit for a month, I opted to have someone do it.

I still need:

...the list will grow as I do more work...it always does

Nice. I've been researching this swap for the past week. Where did you get the motor from? It looks pretty clean.

Have you done any weight reduction to your DX? From the specs I've read online, the DX weighs in at 2178 lbs while the CX/VX weighs in at 2094 lbs. As stated in my other post, the hood might be the reason for some of the additional weight. https://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=5920

Are you located in California? If so, I was wondering if you needed to BAR your vehicle so it would pass smog.

Keep us posted!! You look like your off to a good start.

What are your plans for the head? This is the first motor build I've seen with FE in mind. I'm not too familiar with with JDM honda motors, but $400 shipped for a low mileage motor sounds like a steal.

For higher compression, are you just gonna deck the head/block and/or change out the pistons/rods? I assume you'll be upgrading to a higher octane gasoline, but are there any plans to try out alternative fuels? If it were me, I'd try and get viton seals in there just in case you want to run alcohol at some point.

Good luck and I look forward to the updates.
Matt

Good luck with the build. I'm interested to see the MPG results of a slightly higher C/R in the vtec-e motor.

got the contact from someone on this forum:
JDMSOURCE
www.jdmsource.ca
1 866 717 4252

weight: I've taken out the spare tire, picked up a set of VX rims, will be removing AC,...but nothing else yet.

I'm in the Seattle area...I grew up in California and moved here a few yrs ago - smog regulations are much more relaxed here! (Good luck in Cali!)

I'm going to leave the block alone (cheaper/easier) and just shave off a bit from the head...I'm still debating on how far to push it, some of the Honda forums say you can bump the CR to 10-10.5:1 (OE is 9.3:1) and still run 87 octane....I probably won't go any more than 10:1. (no plans for alternative fuels as of yet...)

Very interesting 350. You have me at the edge of my seat on this one. By the way, do you know the weight of the vx engine?

I can pick up a longblock d15z1 with no transmission attached. That is with the intake manifold, but no exhaust manifold and no alternator attached. That long block fully assembled and dry should weigh in around 100lbs. The trans is about 50lbs.

updated original post...parts should be here tomorrow! (I feel like a kid on Christmas Eve:p )

Good pictures, kept us up to date and good luck for the rebuilt. Do u ever drove a Vx before? Because it will worth putting this time on that rebuilt and swap... I absolutely love mine.

I bought our '92 civic HB DX about 3-4 weeks ago...it's a great little car:thumbup: . (Only downside is that it's a bit slow accelerating and can be noisy on the bad Seattle Freeways:thumbdown: )