Civic VX Lean Burn monitor and General Info
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I've noticed lately a lot of interest in monitoring the Lean burn of the VX ECU. I did some searching (thanks to Krousdb) and found his post about which ECU pins to connect to with a DMM/DVM to monitor Lean Burn.
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Now for the info on the ECU pins to connect to and what you should be seeing: Positive lead of the DMM/DVM to pin D14 (orange with blue stripe) Negative lead to pin D16 (blue with green stripe wire) https://www.gassavers.org/attachment....1&d=1168541520 Readings can be as low as -1.4V and as high as .8V This is considered normal. In a good functioning LAF the peak-to-peak voltage difference should exceed 1 volt. I.E. if you get a reading of -1.3V (rich) and .6V (lean) the voltage range is 1.9V which is acceptable as a proper functioning LAF. Checking Reference Voltage: Positive Lead on D16 | Negative Lead on Chassis Ground https://www.gassavers.org/attachment....1&d=1168541829 These wires are located on the far right connector once the ecu is orientated like the ECU picture below. Courtesy of FF-Sqaud.com: https://www.ff-squad.com/tech/wiring/wiring.92-95.jpg What it is: D14 is the IP+ (positive pump cell) signal of the LAF and D16 is the IP- (negative pump cell), VS- signal of the LAF (VS- is the Reference Voltage that the LAF uses, the voltage is 450mV, measured from the Cell Voltage Input D8) (Ip- is the "virtual ground" the LAF uses...so basically the LAF reference signal is at 450mV (2.7V measured from Chassis Ground) unlike a typical earth ground which resides at less than 10mV). This has all been checked out by me in the Helms Manual (the FSM for Honda). Quote:
PCV info for CX/VX model: I just checked on my Honda E-catalog (the same software the dealer uses) and got different numbers for the VX/CX model as compared to the rest of the models. VX/CX = PCV 17130-P07-A02 (shown to be used on all CX/VX model civics 92-95) The rest = 171300-PM6-003 (all models except CX/VX) The reason for posting this info is because the VX/CX PCV valve is not like a normal PCV valve. It's basically a 90 degree elbow with no innards. This allows the crankcase to be under low pressure most all of the time allowing for better FE. DIY on making an aftermarket PCV into an OEM VX PCV Usually Honda has the parts grouped by ECU ie VX=P07 and the correct corresponding parts have that in the middle of the part number. So it seems that VX and CX share the same PCV valve. Displays that can be used with the VX LAF: It wouldn't be too hard to rig up a simple voltage comparator circuit to light up an LED when the signal from the O2 goes higher than the reference signal. hmm, but for me, it's just easier to hook up a DVM. Tech Edge has a display that can read a LAF as well, in fact the controller kit they used to sell has a heater controller circuit as well. And the cool part...the display shows A/F ratio or voltage depending on how you set it up during assembly. Wide band display HERE Tech edge site HERE This company actually uses the VX L1H1 sensor in it's first version of DIY kit. Spark plugs and wires: The VX uses NGK V-Power Spark Plugs No. ZFR4F-11 Spark plug wires from the dealer are best and worth the money. If you do buy spark plug wires from an auto store, buy them for an Si model of the same year. This ensures that you get the proper fitting plug wires since some auto stores have the wrong part number in their system for the VX spark plug wires. Tire Size: The original tire size of the VX was 165/70/R13 This tire size is getting a bit harder to find. Use this table HERE to find a tire size near the original stock size. If you don't have the stock rims, you can see similar sizes on larger rims by clicking "show" on your rim size below the table. VX Specific Aero Parts: There are two specific Aero Parts for the VX. They are the front lip spoiler and a rear cover for the void between the driver's rear bumper and wheel well. https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sr30_g12.gif 74663-SR3-H00 Cover RR. Lower 92-95 VX specific part only. $38.92 before shipping at Majestic Honda. It's number 14 in the picture above. Direct Link Here Here are pics of my VX with rear panel from the factory: https://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/ea688587.jpg https://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f/ea6884d2.jpg Taken from the drivers side rear of the car. https://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...13sr30_g01.gif Number 4 in this picture is the front lip spoiler. 71110-SR3-000 Spoiler, FR. AIR. Going for $70.88 on Majestic Honda. Direct Link Here The front lip isn't so much VX specific as it was a dealer option on all two door and hatch model civics. Rust repair panels for the rear quarter panels: 212-92-51-L 212-92-51-R Rust Repair Site Click on "order by part number" button in the upper left of the page and enter one part number per line. The current price is $32.35 per panel, but well worth it. Shipping is pretty reasonable as well. Disclaimer! I know it's a lot of info all in one post, but it's nice to have it all in one spot for search reasons. And a big Thank You to DaX and Krousdb for helping me! And as always...Your Mileage May Vary! :D |
bravo... :)
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https://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_3032/article.html
has air/fuel gauges, altho non of them read 22:1 ratios, but they should still tell you when you hit that lean spot. |
Thanks for the link, Ryland.
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If you've got the dough, get a PLX M-series lambda meter...I don't know exactly how much they are, but they're nice, and they can read all the way up there in those high AFR values. www.plxdevices.com
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I haven't had a whole lot of luck finding a graph of the actual output in Volts of the L1H1.
But I did update some more info in the original post. Tire sizes and some other stuff. |
TomO: Where did you find the price of $75? It looked to me like their sensor is the Bosch unit, which was running a couple of hundred bucks, when I was looking at this six months ago.
Have you been unable to find a voltage/fuel ratio curve for the sensor in the VX. If you can't find one, I think I can find something out for you, although it may take me a couple of day's. Presuming your car is a non-CA VX, you should be able to get all of the information that is available through that monitor, by just using a voltmeter and the sensor/controller which are already built into the car. |
I have found two formulas for the NTK L1H1:
V = (AFR - 9) / 2 ~> https://wbo2.com/2a0/ V = (AFR - 10) / 2 ~> https://www.ztechz.net/id12.html Not sure exactly which one is right. |
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This is what I understand from what I've gathered on the workings of the L1H1: Vref = 450mV = .45V (This is the reference voltage the controller uses to actually read if the air is rich or lean) Quote:
So up until this time, either I'm way over-analyzing this OR I could just simply go out to my VX and hook up my DVM to the Ip and the sensor ground to get a full reading of the voltage range the sensor spits out. I wish it wasn't so cold outside and I had a spare set of DVM leads to solder in to my ECU so I could see all this for myself. I'm getting so involved with this because I have a couple of the original Ozzie units (the controller and the display) that I started to assemble. I would like to see if the display could be hooked directly to the output of the L1H1 since the VX ECU will be controlling the sensor. Now you can see why I want a RAW data output graph of the L1H1. I know the Ozzie display is calibrated to read 2.5V as stoich and I want to see what the output of the L1H1 itself is. Sorry, this is getting long-winded now, and I'm hungry. I'm going out to get some lunch and try to not rack my brain on this one. |
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