Things to look at when buying a Geo Metro
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryland I'm going to look at a 2000 Geo metro with 80,000 miles, they guy is asking $2000 for it, but I know who he got it from,and a year ago he paid $1,200 for it, any idea what I should check on it? or what it's worth? Check: transmission - the syncros are the biggest problem on these cars, lower gears (2nd particularly). They're kind of weak, and may wear prematurely, especially if the owner was agressive. Crunchy shifting. Rust: probably not an issue on a 2000, but the areas that go are: the rockers (underneath, where it meets the floor pan), and most importantly the lower front suspension mount points (where the control arm bolts on). What its worth - 1200 is a great price for a 2000 if it's in good shape. I paid 1500 CDN for my first one ('98), and it needed $400 in parts to get it certified, so 1900 on the road, with a bit fewer miles (70 K miles). good luck. Darin |
I bet JanGeo will also have some more to add.
One more thing: on the pre-1989 models, the EGR clogging up (plumbing, not the valve itself) is a common complaint and can cause all sorts of problems, leading in the worst case to burnt exhaust valves (since EGR helps to control - ie. lower - combustion temps). |
Is it a 4-cyl sedan? I'm trying to remember if the 3-cyl HB was still offered in 2000.
|
The h-back 3-cyl was still offered in 2000.
|
it's a 3 cylender hatch back, I don't think I could bring my self to buying a sedan, so much wasted space, such poor mileage, I don't understand why they still make sedans.
|
A 2000, 3cyl, HB for cheap? Get it, man! Get it!
|
Quote:
FWIW, Ryland, I sold my 1998 Firefly#1 for $3200 CDN last November, uncertified (though it would have passed with no repairs). I put a couple hundred more into it after I got it on the road @1900, but made a few bucks on it (not counting time invested of course). Maybe we need to set up a business arrangment: a supply chain of used Metros to north of the border... |
Quote:
|
Watch out for:
Rusty Rotors Emergency brake handle takes too many clicks to lock the rear wheels Loose shifter - should be really tight Sticky shifter - will not move forward and backwards easily - bad boot CV boots ripped noise Lots of brake dust on the front wheels Play in the steering Unusal wear on the tires Rusty leaking exhost - block the tail pipe with your hand or smooth sole shoe it should stall the engine and build up pressure Smell the exhost - should not smell oily or smoky Check for tail pipe soot Rust around windows lower panels of doors rear bottom of front fenders |
Other Metro-specific problems I remembered (thanks to XFi's eBay ad):
- broken door handles (int & ext), mostly on the 89-94 cars - bent/broken window lift mechanisms |
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:23 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.