Saving gas by not changing lanes?
I figure that when you turn, you have to use your power steering pump which means more draw on the pully. I gave this a try and got 2mpg better by not changing lanes. Any input?
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i think next time dont even turn :gotme: or cut the PS belt and put water in your oil it will cool faster thus makeing the car run better |
Hmm. I wouldn't think that changing lanes would cause that much of a load from the power steering pump. Most cars and even large trucks can change lanes without much effort without power steering.
Too bad you have an 06(serpentine belt). Anyone with an older car tried removing the belt for the PS pump completely? It sucks but might be a good place to look for gains. What about having a hydraulic(or pneumatic) pressure storage tank and having the pump charge the tank on decel? Then you could have power steering without the constant load? That won't work. Power steering systems run an open loop that flows constantly and freely when no turning is done and loads the pump by restricting the exit to one side of the rack to create pressure and the assist. Sorry, thinking out loud. |
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It's to my understanding that if you are to blow a load in the pump it lubricates better resulting in less power needed.
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Describe your drive a little more... As of now I'm thinking that the 2mpg is more a result of other things rather than less PS use. Aren't you surprised that you gained 2mpg from less PS use?
I'm thinking this.... Changing lanes means you need to pass someone. Passing usually results in faster speeds and more acceleration periods. Staying in one lane means that you'll stick to a fairly constant speed, and usually a slower speed and in return less aero drag. See what I'm getting at? |
Actually turning a car takes almost no energy whatsoever.
If you ever get a car on a single-post center lift (like the next time you get a set of new tires), you will notice that you can rotate a car with your pinky finger. At highway speeds you could remove the belt from your P/S pump, and you wouldn't feel any different. (Please, nobody try to remove their belt while driving at highway speeds!) The only time you need P/S is in parking lots. Even if you take a hard corner, there is really no energy required to do that- the only energy required is to change the rotational inertia of the vehicle. Once you have started to take a corner, no further energy input is required. (To visualize this, think about a zig-zagging car instead of a car doing a single circle. The zig-zagging car will lose its momentum faster, since you are rapidly accelerating the rotation in opposite directions.) Holding a car in a circle does load up the suspension, but those are static loads and do not require energy "input" once the car has started to rotate. -Bob C. |
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if your gaining 2mpg by not changeling lanes u need to get the grease out of your power steering:D (PSF is like water, some use brake fluid, also like water) if you ever have your serpentine belt off (any of you) give the pump a spin by hand, youd be surprised how little resistance it has. yes u only need power steering in parking lots and even then not really. |
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1. The steering box was designed with power steering in mind. A car with inoperative power steering is harder to drive than a similar vehicle that was not equipped with power steering. 2. The steering box, and/or rack & pinion on FWD cars was designed to use the flow of power steering fluid from the pump for lubrication. Disconnecting the pump could mean costly steering component repairs later - probably more than whatever gas you saved. If you are considering cutting out the power steering get the related components from a non-ps car and convert the vehicle so that it is setup as the non power steering models were. -Jay EDIT: I was just thinking... Many vehicles (Including my pickup truck) now have speed sensitive power steering. At highway speeds the system cuts the boost anyway... |
some cars don't use their power steering above a certain speed/or turn radius. its mainly for slow/parking lot maneuvers that it assists the driver.
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Holy crap, this thread is a mess!
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My 3000 pound VW's electric power steering is pretty much off at speeds greater than maybe 20mph. Power steering just does not take much energy. Even if power steering used a lot of engine power to turn, consider just how much you turn the steering wheel to change lanes. It's tiny, barely different from the normal adjustments you use to keep your car straight in its lane. |
Rotational interia!
A very minor (miniscule) bit of energy loss can be attributed to overcoming the rotational inertia of the wheels and tires when changing lanes., i.e., it would take some energy to change the plane of rotation (four wheels/tires weighing 30 lbs each at 600 rpm...).
Just thought I'd muddy the waters a bit. |
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-Jay |
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i much rather have little help/no power steering. chevette has none and the s-10's is going out (stillt here btu takes some effort to move) i like to feel like im accually driving, like the steering wheels accually connected to the car lol |
I like effort so light that I can steer by just giving the steering wheel a dirty look.
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-Jay |
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-Jay |
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-Jay |
it could, its a 97 with some 98 parts (tail end of the 97 model year) makes fixing it a PITA....
wish my car and truck had tilt steering wheels... (i can put one in the s-10 but ive gotten used to where it is, chevette was an option but a rare option...) |
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-Jay |
i cut my belt yesterday .... the only problem i had was today my BATT. light started to flash and my radio died..and my heat would not heat up.... i dont know i got to work and parked it so we will see what happens on my drive home
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It sounds like you cut the alternator belt, not the power steering belt...
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I'm not saying the front end isn't part of it though. |
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Power steering uses LESS energy while turning the steering wheel. Holding the wheel in one position uses MORE energy.
The pump contains a relief valve. The pressure builds up until this relief setting and then the fluid pressure bleed off the excess above this setting. During the act of spinning the steering wheel some of this internal pressure is diverted to one side of the steering unit and trapped fluid on the other is allowed back to the reservoir. This diversion of pressure reduces the load on the pump until the steering wheel stops turning, no more fluid is added to one side nor drained from the other and the pump pressure rises again. The faster the steering wheel can be twiddled from left to right, the more volume is needed from the pump to keep up with the flow rate and the lower the pressure drops. Spin the wheel from lock to lock quickly enough with the engine at idle and the volume change in the rack or recirculating ball assembly can be more than the pump's volumetric output at that engine rpm, no pressure for assist, but maximum flow rate (at that rpm) through the system. A basic law of hydraulics (and pneumatics) is that pressure is resistance to flow. No flow conditions produce the maximum pressure. Holding the wheel in one position (driving straight or a constant turn) makes the pump work harder. That in turn puts more load on the belt driving it and the engine driving the belt. Fuel savings? Find the relief valve setting on the pump and relax it. You'll need a bit more armstrong at parking speeds, but the reduction of wasted overpressurization at all other times will result in a fuel savings. |
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