new engine plans
 

just waiting on some parts to arrive...

i have my jdm 3-stage head getting finished up this week...
port & polished and valve job...
but i'm not putting it on yet !!!
my turbo project needs considerable funding...
and i dont have a buyer for my fender jazz bass yet...

so in the meantime:

i'm on the edge of putting in a high compression setup
its stock bolt-on...no custom pistons or anything
basically
a vx head on a b7/b2 bottom
nice flat-top pistons and tiny *** combustion chambers
this yields on the old (inaccurate i might add) compression ratio calculators across the net @ 12.77:1
it should be close to that...but not exact
the old concept is that d15's deckheight is 207.45mm
the truth is they are all 207mm
new calculators should be sprouting about...if not already

i worried about detonation...
i'm not worried about spending more on premium fuel
someone like me who has been conditioned since 2000'ish to spending 1.30-1.50 a gallon driving 5000 miles a month...and who is now spending up around 2.75/gal ...
not to mention i've been putting the 93 in my car lately anyways because i dont think they even give 2 ****s about the quality of fuel they are separating in the towers and distributing...
its not a big deal for me to spend another $3 at the pump
i already feel pretty worked over by my gov...
maybe you have noticed in some of my posts...
lol

anyways...
thats the setup with a dx/lx 4.058 final drive tranny
hopefully i can get the intercooler up and running soon to help fend off detonation (yeah for the n/a setup)

all your bashing that its too high compression to run on street is welcome...
haha...i'm too adamant about at least trying it...

I think it's a cool deal.
 

I think it's a cool deal. Where did you get the z1 head? I purchased a z1 head to put on my b2 block last year, but abandoned the idea after i realized the compression ratio would be so high. A series of decisions left me buying a d15b vtec-e engine.

Anyway, I'd be VERY interested in knowing how your setup goes. Are you going to run the p07 ECU with this setup?

Re: new engine plans
 

Shameless plug:

www.zealautowerks.com

The d15 deckheight has been 207.00 for a LONG while... if you find anything that doesn't look right... lemme know. =)

Re: new engine plans
 

Wait... are you going NA or boost? And are you saying you're gunna run an intercooler on NA???

right...intercooler (dry
 

right...intercooler (dry ice) n/a...
read my newbie post or my garage i guess

12.95:1

thanx for the link...

How are you regulating the
 

How are you regulating the boost to 1 bar absolute? (0 psi)

How long does the dry ice last??? I wouldn't think you would get much heating from running such little boost... I guess it depends on what altitude you're at.

boost will come later
 

boost will come later (hopefully sooner)
but with another head

intercooler i'd like to get on there asap for this setup
should have some hot chamber temps...

dry ice...i dunno...i see it alot in my medical shipments...
typically it lasts 8 hours in a cardboard box
look up frostick or frostic on ebay for some diy shizz...

zero psi
i have a couple threads around the internet describing it
here's the picture...i'll copy and past my words about it in another thread sometime...or here...i'm just lazy right now
basically its a 3lb spring in an external wastegate
so really its 3psi...minus a little with some vac/boost help...
TURBO OFF - would be the zero psi state

https://users.adelphia.net/~digitalco...Controller.jpg

just saw mr. timions
 

just saw mr. timions post...sorry...
uh...no on the p07...
i'm chipped...so it will be hand tuning in crome free...
i know nothing about high compression tuning...
the vx head only revs to 6k anyway...so i shouldn't be in too much trouble up top...
i'll probably advance my cam a whole tooth for low end power on top of that...
basically as much low/mid power/performance as i can possibly get
and then fight off the detonation
it will be a 1.5L so fueling will stay about the same
i think my battle will be with correct timing and a/f ratios...
i'm a tuning newb throwing myself into the abyss of high compression
anticipating a blown motor...but hoping for the best...

Retarding the cam one tooth
 

Retarding the cam one tooth is like 18 crank degrees... that is a TON. The stock cam timing should be fine for what you're trying to do. However, with the huge increase of compression, I would start by retarding you ignition a good 6 degrees. I'm not sure how lean you're going to be able to go with almost 13:1 CR... if you can get ahold of some 103-105 octane fuel... you should be able to set the timing back to stock =) Are you in an area that has E85? If so, replace the injectors with some 240's and you'll be fairly close to the needed fuel.

I have a designation for the engine you're building
 

A hand grenade. With 13:1 and pump gas, it's going to be raining piston shrapnel.

Re: I have a designation for the engine you're building
 

Its do-able... I've run 12.5:1 on pump gas... but i had to retard it a few degrees and run a little rich.

360/38 (teeth) = 9.47° per
 

360/38 (teeth) = 9.47° per tooth
that should lower my power band a good fortune

i think if i can keep intake temps low enough
detonation can easily be fended off
dryice sublimates @ -109°F ...
in a bath of acetone it maintains a temp of -107°
my intake air temps should be around 0-35°F

i think all in all i can break 40mpg
thats my goal
but the engine might lend itself to erratic acceleration...lol

i have to try it...because its sitting here...
and it will be a month at least before i can complete the turbo build

i would normally never compromise my ability to have a reliable vehicle...
but i currently have no open contracts for work...
so its time to play

oh wait...9.47 is cam degrees
YOUR RIGHT
its actually just under 19° crank...
well see if i have some funds for a adj. cam gear
maybe someone will buy my d16a6 si intake

well i dont think i will do
 

well i dont think i will do the high compression...
i'm not as strong minded as i had hoped...lol
i'm picking up my ported head tomorrow...
and i'll probably slap that on the b7 block for 10.5 c/r
and then start getting the turbo stuff together

though it seems there is an inherent problem with my plans for the wastegate idea...
turbo's do not spool up unless at WOT...
at least thats what i'm hearing...
i mean, i went way out of my way to get the most efficient turbo on the market in a compact size...
the skyline turbo uses ceramic ball bearings and a ceramic turbine...
it should spool up well below 2500rpm...
but i guess i will just have to see if it works at part throttle

On my civic, my turbo would
 

On my civic, my turbo would spool well below WOT. If you want it to reach full spool, WOT was the quickest way to get there though. My turbo wasn't even that efficient...your basic off the shelf Turbonetics T3/T4 w/standard 270* bearings.

Spool has a lot to do with turbine sizing compared to displacement too. On my 1.8L Civic I had a 0.48 AR turbine - it spooled so freaking fast (a friend of mine said it felt like a BB turbo) but I had to trade off some top end power (or volumetric flow rate) for the fast spool.

I'd say stick with a small turbine size and you'll spool well below WOT.

I agree, you should see
 

I agree, you should see boost at fairly low RPM, even at part throttle. Turbine size is going to make a good difference, and keep the exhaust post-turbo as free flowing as possible.

There are ways to cheat the turbo into spooling sooner, but most are not mileage friendly. Look at WRC cars, they retard the ignition and dump a ton of fuel to get those snails spinning off the line... hard on the turbo and your mileage.

Which turbo model will you be using? A T28?

I'm guessing the ceramic one
 

I'm guessing the ceramic one off the RB26? Pay close attention to the condition of that turbine... the ceramic ones don't hold up to detonation well at all.

duely noted on the
 

duely noted on the detonation factor
here's a great (rare?) thread on honda-tech about "det-cans"
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1555006

good news about the turbo...i feel ALOT better...it should work
i had some dsm tuner guy really trash talking me last night and i was sunk low on over a year of my studies thinking it should work..
man some people...
he made some valid points and has alot more experience than me
anyways

its an rb20 unit from an r33
here's all the specs i got on it
20t comp wheel 42x59
comp cover .50 a/r
turbine wheel 51x43
.4 a/r there abouts
around 250hp max
ceramic ball bearings...ceramic turbine

there were two versions of this turbo produced...
the later was bigger and could support over 300hp stock
i'm 90% sure this is the smaller...though i dont really know...
one nice thing that should help me further on the later skyline turbos
the compressor has a bigger a/r than the turbine...
something you usually only see on diesel truck turbos
that should yield a little extra oomph as well for my goal !!!

thanx so much for the feedback
pick up the head tomorrow
the plan is alive and well !!!

That's some interesting shit
 

That's some interesting **** about the det-cans.

got my head WOW he even
 

got my head
WOW

he even stamped it 4 20 06
happy 4/20 everyone

just need a d-series turbo manifold
external wastegate
intercooler
a bit more piping
turbo oil lines
and downpipe fabrication

not too far off
the amputeens (lol) have commited to buy my fender jazz bass soon
so hopefully will have this completed

new plan...do things right
 

new plan...(i didn't plan on this being my 134th post however...read on)
do things right the first time...
i think i will try and build up a halfway decent bottom end for this motor...

i found some B16a rods in my garage...
b16 rods happen to be about the same length as the d15 ::: 134mm
actually 134.366...so yet another bump in compression for my turbo motor...bah...
the big end bore of the b16's will clamp right onto the jdm d15 crank...which has the same d16/b16 rod journal diameter...
so the only thing left to do is bush for the wristpin from 21mm to the d15/d16 19mm...
oh and i think a small bit of block notching

current compression calculations with my setup:
stock d15 134mm rods - 10.43:1
bushed b16 134+mm rods - 10.8:1

Offset bush them, you could
 

Offset bush them, you could have them be stock length or less then.

nice idea...though i'm not
 

nice idea...
though i'm not sure how well that will tide with such small working dimensions...
i mean...we are talking about a 21mm hole being reduced to 19mm
i'll have to find some shops that can do the work
time to see what 'cleveland' can do

oh and i got the b16 compression down to 10:6x:1 with a y8/z6 gasket instead of the cometic...
so i'm not too worried about compression...
i saw my first 13:1 compression honda which makes me wonder about going back to that idea while i build my bottom end...lol
giggity giggity

click here

I bought a d15z1 and d15b8 this week. Both motors are partially disassembled. I was considering running the flt top 4 valve relief d15b8 pistons in my d15z1 to increase compression ratio but 13 is way high. I would like to increase my compression ratio from the 9.3 to 10-10.5 area. Any cost effective recommendations?

Can you get to the higher compression ratio just by shaving the head, and maybe by using a thinner head gasket?