low cost space heater?
 

Hi, I'm new to the forum. I was wondering if anyone could give me advice on what would be a low cost space heater for this winter. My wife gets much colder than I do so I was thinking that we could lower the heat this winter if I got her a space heater but I'm concerned that I might actually end up paying more than keeping the boiler (oil heat) higher for the whole house (we only have one zone heat). I live in CT where we pay very high electric rates 22-$.26/kWh. Has anyone used their Kill-a-Watt device to see how much their space heater costs them over a month of use? I've read that oil filled heaters might be the most economical should I give one of those a try.

The oil filled electric radiators work well, but it usually takes them at least an hour to start putting out a decent amount of heat. Have you considered a heated throw for her to use while snuggled on the couch? Its like an electric blanket, but not as huge as one for a bed. You won't be paying to heat the whole house, or the whole room with a space heater. You'll just be paying to heat her ;) Also, in the winter I usually leave the thermostat down low and I use a heated mattress pad on my bed at night, and wear sweaters durring the day. I usually keep the heat at ~ 55F. If you put the heat just where you need it you can save on the heating bill.

-Jay

Electric space heaters should be pretty accurately labeled with their energy usage, so it's probably not necessary to measure actual usage...just read the package.

The oil heaters just heat up and cool down slowly- its a more even heat, but they give no more BTU per watt than a cheapy electric type that blows hot air.

If you have any south facing windows, you can gets lots of free heat on a sunny cold day...

Monitor kerosene heaters are not what you would call cheap, but they are great heaters and very efficient. I live in a 14X70 mobile home and have a 22,000 BTU Monitor that heats the whole house all winter with its thermostat set at 68-70 on about 100-150 gallons of kerosene per winter. I live around Charlotte, NC so we don't have real rough winters. The heater doesn't take up a lot of room either the dimensions on mine are about 14" D X 21" W X 25" H. and it is thermostatically controlled. They vent to the outside of the house so there is not a kerosene smell and they have a small electric blower that circulates the heat. I think the blower on mine only uses about 60 watts of power. I'm not sure what the price on them is now, but when I bought mine in '96 I think I paid $925. for it. If you bought one of them you could use it all of the time and it would cut your electrical usage way down. When I bought mine they also made a 40,000 BTU unit and probably still do. You can fill them using the small tank like a portable kerosene heater has or you can do what I did and run it off of an outside source (I use a 55 gallon drum) to store the kerosene. Just do a Google search on Monitor kerosene heater and you'll be able to find out more information about them.

Electric space heaters pretty much all use the same principle to heat. i.e. They turn electrical energy into heat via resistance. As a result, such space heaters are almost all equally efficient/inefficient energy wise.

So what you get for differences in price, is total capacity (how fast can it put out heat by using a lot of power?), and features. For example some units have fancier digital thermostats (that help you get exactly the temp you are looking for), some units have ceramic heat storage (which doesn't put out anymore total heat, but allows the unit to be more even in the heat it puts out into the room), etc. But overall, even a cheap $16 Walmart special will heat as efficiently (power usage wise) as a fancy $100+ unit.

As to the cost of running them, there is no real need to use a kill-o-watt as almost all space heaters have their actual power usage listed on the package and/or the tag on the heater itself. So just look up what power they use, figure out what percentage of the time the unit will be "on", and multiply by your cost of electricity. For example, if you are using the "low" setting on your heater, that "low" setting is 750 watts (a common number for the low setting on my heaters), the unit (in the room you are using it in) cycles on for about 1/3 of the time, and your electrical cost is $0.26/kwh, than the unit would cost you: 0.75 * 1/3 * $0.26 or around 6.5 cents/hour you have it "on".

NOTE: How much a space heater cycles on varies a LOT with the makeup of the room, and also with how insulated things are. So the above is just an example of how to run the numbers, your numbers could easily be higher or lower.

NOTE: Most "electronics" (including computers, TVs, lights, etc) produce (in addition to anything "useful" they do) "waste heat" almost as "efficiently" (watt for watt) as an electronic space heater. So in the winter don't sweat running an extra electric device or two, as you will also get heat in the room as a result!

NOTE: If your room is a little damp in the winter, consider getting a portable "dehumidifier". Yes, they are bigger than space heaters, but they also produce "waste heat". And in the case of a dehumidifier, they not only dry out the air (sometimes useful, especially if/when things are a little wet/clammy), but they actually make more efficient "space heaters" than real space heaters! The reason for this, is that the dehumidifier both has it's normal "waste heat" (just like the space heater generates heat) _and_ also has the heat that is produced as a side-effect of condensing water out of the air. So with a dehumidifier you get heat from two sources for your electrical input, whereas a real "space heater" only gives you one of those sources of heat.

BTW: Yes, I do use a space heater some in the winter (in our bedroom), although we use our dehumidifier more (for the reason stated above), because it's an alternative to heating the whole house. So even when the space heater is more expensive for unit of heat out, you may still "win" by minimizing the places you have to heat.

However, there are a number of other "tricks" that should be considered, if you are trying to save money on winter heat. Here's a partial list (all of which we do here, at least some of the time):

Seal the windows very tightly, and if you have storm windows make sure they are sealed as well. It only takes a slight "draft" to lose a LOT of heat from the room. And if your weather stripping is old and/or not working well, consider replacing it with new from the hardware store.

If your storm windows are like mine, they probably don't seal nearly as tightly as the main window. So I've found that a little tape around edge of the storm window (before you seal up the main window) can work wonders at cutting down on the air drafts the storm windows let into the main window area.

Consider those plastic "extra windows" that you can put on in the winter. Even with properly latched windows (and storm windows) with good weather stripping (and tape around the storm windows), the extra layer that the temp plastic does can make a big difference (especially if it is really cold out).

Caulk is cheap! Get a caulking gun and one or more tubes of clear flexible silicone sealer caulk. Then squeeze the chalk into any outside wall that you can feel any air from. Because those little "drafts" can add up to big losses of heat in the winter!

If you have the choice between turning up the heat, or cooking in the kitchen, cook in the kitchen. For example, put a nice turkey in the oven. Yes, you will still be paying for the energy, but not only will you get a nice home cooked meal (at a fraction of the cost of eating out), but virtually all that heat (used for cooking) will eventually leak into the house (heating up your home). So you get two things (the meal and heating the home) for the same energy cost...

Reflectix (this stuff: https://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100012574 ) is available at many hardware stores), and is really handy stuff for makeshift winterizing of a room. In the winter, I'll set sheets of the stuff next to outside walls anywhere I can. For example, our bed headboard is right up against an outside wall, so naturally some of that stuff behind the headboard. Ditto for behind the dresser and shelves we have against the wall. And because the stuff is so soft and (unlike fiberglass) easy on the lungs and skin, you can actually put the stuff between your bed mattress and box-springs. And why would you do that, you ask? Because it will cause the bed to naturally be a little warmer (without affecting the comfort of the bed), by reflecting some of your body heat back to you (instead of having that heat dissipate into the room)!

Especially if your bathroom is connected to your master bedroom, consider leaving any bath water in the tub for at least an hour or two after you are done washing. This will let some of the heat from the wash water go into your bedroom and warm it up, instead of wasting that heat down the drain.

Consider opening your curtains during the day when the sun is out, and closing them at night. Even in the winter, you can use the "greenhouse effect" to get solar heat from the sun coming into the room through a window. But that only works if you don't block that solar energy with the shades. OTOH the reverse is true at night, and you actually want the shades closed (at night) to cut down on heat escaping the room via the window.

Consider insulating any wall outlets (or switches) on outside walls. It's amazing how much cold air can leak around those electrical boxes built into the wall, and kits to insulate them (which often involve unscrewing the faceplate, installing a foam cutout, and screwing the faceplate back on) are easy/cheap to get. Also, consider plugging in those "child safety plugs" into any outlet (on an outside wall) that you aren't currently using. The child plug will serve to lower the airflow around that outlet, and thereby cut down on heat escaping (via the wall outlet) from the room.

With body heat, two works better then one. i.e. Curling up next to your wife will tend to keep you both warm. ;)

And finally, good blankets (to keep your body heat in) are helpful as well. In my experience, nothing is more irritating in the winter, then not having a big enough blanket. IMHO a large comforter is well worth the money. And if you are an allergy sufferer (as I am), you can actually buy comforters that use allergen barrier cloth as their outermost layer. Yes, they are expensive (I think I spent around $300 when I bought my king-sized anti-allergen comforter several years ago), but they will (if taken care of) last for years.

One thing you may not realize, but raising the humidity level in a room will make it seem warmer than it really is. In the winter low humidity coupled with heating the area often causes problems with static electricity. In the winter I usually run a humidifier. It eliminates static problems, I don't get my winter nosebleeds, and it allows me to set the thermostat 5 degrees lower.

True up to a point.

However, too much humidity can have its own problems too. For example, when the humidity is too high in the winter you get condensation (and possibly mold growth) on those (often colder) outer walls. And if the humidity level is high enough, it can feel really "clammy" and uncomfortable. Also, if you happen to be an allergy suffer (I am), it's helpful to know that many indoor allergens (especially "dust mites") are much better controlled when the humidity level is lower (ideally around 40% or less).

And FWIW my personal experience is that the primary thing that seems to dry out the air (in the winter) is gas central heat (as the burning gas flames dry out the air, in addition to heating things up). As a result, when the "waste heat" sources around our house are being effective (at adding heat), we find we often have a "too much humidity" problem even in the winter (hence our desire to use our dehumidifier as a "space heater" in the winter). In fact, in the winter you do not have the AC lowing the humidity (as it often does in the summer), so it's actually possible for a house to get more humid in the winter than the summer (unless you have something else, for example gas heat, drying out the air).

Besides which, one of my other suggestions (i.e. letting the water in the bathtub cool down naturally), not only does a very good job of capturing heat that would otherwise be wasted, it also works as a fairly effective "humidifier" as a side effect. So to the extent I actually want to raise the humidity level (and I agree that in the winter it's a balancing act as to what the right humidity level target should be), why not do it with the heat from leftover water (vs running a separate humidifier)?

DracoFelis, those are some very good points, and a few ideas I had never thought of. Mind if I disassemble a few of them?

I always thought this was true, for the reasons you stated.

I'd also add that if you check WalMart in the spring, you'll probably find those $16 units for $3, and the $100 units for $16.

I bought a few last spring and left them in my attic, time to bring them down. I was thinking I'd use a small one in the car in the morning to pre-heat the interior before work, then I don't have to use extra gas trying to heat the car up. Right now I can't EOC first thing in the morning because wife is cold.

This is especially true of incandescent light bulbs, which make most of their energy into heat.

I'll have to agree with Jay on this one. I run dehumidifiers in the summer because the New England air is chock full of water, but in the winter the indoor air is bone-dry (possibly due to oil being burned for heat, as you suggest about gas). The more humid air can feel warmer at a given temperature. More importantly, in the winter with colds and flu and such going around, it's important not to let your nose/throat/mouth dry out; the mucous membranes dry and then the germs get in more easily. Since I've been paying attention to humidity and irrigating my throat by drinking more water, my winters have been much less sick.

Humidifiers make as much (or more) heat as dehumidifiers. Vaporizers do the same thing as humidifiers but they do it with more heat, esentially combining a space heater with a humidifier (but some make lots of concentrated steam that could cause mold if it is directed at a surface). You could probably just leave a glass of water on top of your heater for a similar effect (of course then you'd have to worry about spilling the water).

I'm not so sure about this. I didn't run my dehumidifier this summer, but I remember it producing cooler air, and I assumed that it must radiate its waste heat out the back somewhere, since the condensed water isn't warm.

The extra source doesn't result in free heat. For the same wattage input, you'd get more heat generated from the resistance of heater, since it's not doing the work of extracting the water from the air. The heat that it gets specifically from condensing water (vs. the waste heat from spent electricity) is heat that was already in the air; the condensed water is cooler than it was when it was part of the air.

:thumbup: Spending 5,000 watt hours at 50% efficiency beats spending 50,000 watt hours at 75% efficiency. As long as you don't have pets or children, you are free to heat the people instead of the whole environment.

Chalk is for writing on a blackboard. Caulk is for sealing gaps.

Caulking guns can be found at dollar stores these days. The dollar store caulking guns I've used work surprisingly well.

Silicone caulk is not cheap. Latex caulk is cheap and ought to do the job fine, but it's not as nice of a material to work with. It does have less odor than silicone but it isn't as sticky, isn't clear (though it is paintable), doesn't stay as flexible, and doesn't remove as nicely.

:thumbup: :thumbup:

The only time this fails is if you have to run the kitchen exhaust fan.

This is a great idea, I never thought of it -- though I take showers, not baths.

Similarly, leave the pot of cooking water out in the kitchen instead of pouring it down the drain immediately.

Also, curtains are better than shades because they insulate. Even when you're leveraging the greenhouse effect, they insulate the drafty edges.

Again, heating the individual instead of the environment. A pile of blankets works nicely for me, instead of one extra-thick blanket/comforter. I like the extra weight, and I can easily adjust the thickness by peeling off layers, even if I'm asleep (well, I assume that I partially wake up to adjust it, and then just don't remember it).

Also, having the blanket too big for the bed helps make sure you don't end up at the drafty edge of the blanket. Either you have a lot hanging over the bed, or you can tuck it in between the mattress and box spring, making the bed act like a sleeping bag and making sure that the edge never comes up to let a draft in.

Wal-Mart is great at the end of the season. I bought a heated mattress pad on clearance @ WallyWorld ~ 2 years ago for $20. It works great. I heat the bed, and not the whole room. Much more energy efficient. Most often I'll turn it on 10 minutes before going to bed, warm the bed up, then turn it off and go to sleep. Once the bed is warmed up it tends to stay warm the whole night.

I agree with HC. Here on the east coast winters are very dry, and summers are extremely humid. While a byproduct of dehumidifying air is heat I agree with HC that its not the most efficient way to do this. For that matter why not leave the freezer door open when you want to heat the house? Its the same principle. You're running a compressor with Freon in it. Because of the laws of Thermodynamics being as they are nothing is 100% effficient so the net effect of leaving the freezer open is heating.

I agree, don't overdo it to the point of creating the ideal environment for mold growth, but if I don't humidify the air in the winter my skin gets dry, cracked, and will sometimes bleed. If I don't humidify in the winter daily nosebleeds are just about guaranteed.

Mom always did more baking in the winter than in the summer. Her logic being why heat up the kitchen just to cool it down again with the a/c?

-Jay

The water is actually colder. The de-humidifier uses a compressor like a fridge or A/C. The heat exchange gas is compressed, becomes a liquid and gets hot from this compression. A fan blows room air on the hot coils to lower it back to near ambient. It's this 'heated' or 'waste' air that can raise the true temperature on the space. The compressed / liquified gas is then allowed to expand. It cools as it expands. Since it was nearly at room temperature it cools to below, and hopefully below the dew point. The moisture in the air forms drops of sweat on these coils, which collect and drip off. These drops of water are cooler than the air because they were formed on cold coils.
The sensation of you feeling 'cooler' is due to the more rapid evaporation of body moisture. A dry bulb thermometer will prove that the air blown away from the de-humidifier is at a higher temperature than the room, but a hygrometer in that same air will indicate a lower temperature.

Another consideration when selecting spot heating devices is a 'wind chill' effect from portable heaters with fans to circulate air (or ceiling fans). Don't sit in the draft or you'll feel colder by having body heat blown away.
Ceiling fan air flow direction depends on where you are sitting in the room. If your chair is near the wall and the ceiling fan is in the middle of the room, have it blow downward. There'll be slower air speed and less "wind" effect near the walls than if an upward flow washed across the ceiling and then down the walls. But if you are seated under the fan, then an upward flow will have less "wind" effect.

It was 48F in the house yesterday morning. We agreed it's time to start the furnace. 55 with a set back to 45 at night.

The cheepest way to keep warm is with an IR lamp. I have a 250 watt uncoated heat lamp that I run on a 15amp router dimmer/speed control and if I adjust it to about half it glows red and gives off some light and can keep my entire body warm in a 60 degree room. It draws about 80 watts on the Kill-a-Watt meter. I would recommend the coated bulb however unless you want some light.

Exactly. Thanks for explaining it (to the others) for me.

i.e. You get some "waste heat" from the water (which you have cooled from water vapor in the air). You then (presumably) throw that cooler water down the drain (effectively heating up the room from the waste heat you extracted from the water (which you cooled). Plus you get "waste heat" also from just the energy used to run the dehumidifier itself. As a result, dehumidifiers have two sources of heat (the water cooling source of heat, and the energy used to power it source of heat) for your energy dollar.

NOTE: Contrast this with a "vaporizer", that will raise the humidity level in the air, but at a cost of taking heat away from the heating element to cause the state change of water to water vapor. As a result, a vaporizer is actually a LESS efficient (as a heating source) device than a space heater (because a vaporizer looses heat as part of turning water into steam), whereas a dehumidifier is a more efficient heating source (because you gain "waste heat", by cooling the water vapor into water).

And has already been pointed out in this thread, the humidity level in the winter is a balancing act. If you have very dry winter air in your house, you probably don't want to take advantage of the extra heat a dehumidifier can produce.

In my case, I generally like around 40% humidity ideally (a nice mix between allergens and "too dry" air), but I don't always get that target (some times I'm a bit lower, and sometimes a lot higher). One way I do avoid going "too dry" though, is how I set my dehumidifier in the winter. I'll adjust it to heating comfort I want, but I'll never go below a setting of 35% on the unit itself (like most decent dehumidifiers, it has a built-in humidity meter to control it's on/off cycling). If the air is already down to 35%-40% humidity, then I will use some other source of heat that doesn't dry the air out as much (such as an electric space heater) and/or I'll add more humidity to the air (for example, by leaving waste water from a bath sitting).

NOTE: The lower you set the target humidity level in your dehumidifier, the more the device will run, and therefore the warmer it will make the room. So as you want more heat, you should adjust the target humidity down (but not any lower than you want for other comfort reasons), and as you are getting warm you should adjust the target humidity up (so the device runs less).

I suggested the silicone because: it's water proof, it doesn't crack (i.e. it's flexible), it's practically invisible (if you get the clear stuff), it will last for years, and is easy to remove if/when you ever need to. But you are correct that it is neither the only caulking option, nor the cheapest option initially.

OTOH even silicone caulk (while still many times more costly than some other options) can easily be had for $5/tube (and if you look carefully at some big lumber yards, you can often find the stuff for less than $3/tube). And you can fill a lot of air cracks with even a single tube of caulk. So even if you got 3 tubes your first year, you are still paying under $20 for the project (and you will likely save more than that, in lower heating bills, the first year alone).

So my thinking is why not just get "the good stuff" the first time, instead of buying (cheaper) caulk that you may have to replace/patch in a few years.

By all means do this if you like.

However, an "IR Lamp" is exactly as inefficient/efficient as a normal electric space heater (watt for watt), as they both produce heat using the exact same principle. So unless you can get an IR lamp for less than a space heater (making it a better deal, due to the purchase price alone), I see no real compelling reason to pick it over a real space heater. In fact, you could argue that the space heater is a better choice, as most IR lamps don't have a built in thermostat (to turn the lamp off when you are sufficiently heated), whereas most space heaters do have a thermostat.

i.e. Your IR lamp may be fewer watts than the space heater, but it also produces proportionally less heat. As a result, you make up for the fact that your IR lamp uses less electricity when it's running by needing to run it more to warm up the room the same amount. As a result, the total heat is a wash (i.e. run fewer watts for a longer period of time, or more watts for a shorter period of time, and either way you run essentially the same total electricity).

But an IR lamp projects heat radiantly rather than just transferring it to the air around the bulb. The result is that you can sit under it and feel warm as the IR energy is dumped into your external surface, rather than having to bring the whole room up to temperature.

So, if you want the thermostat set at 65F and have "extra" heat in one room to feel snuggly, then a 150W IR bulb pointed at your chair is probably as effective as the 1500W space heater, comfort wise. It doesn't put near as much heat into the room, but transfers about the same amount to your body, which is what counts.

No. That heat was already in the air, you're just separating the water from the air and heat. It's not waste heat at all, it's just heat that was already there.

That's the only waste heat made by the dehumidifier.

The heat is stored in the steam, which becomes part of the air. No heat is lost.

When it's all said and done, I would say your best bet is to just control your humidity to your liking, and heat as necessary. Your case for the dehumidifier is that, in addition to the heat it makes electrically, it is contributing heat to the air that it just got from the air; that is not an improvement.

You don't have to sell me on silicone. Silicone is the best! My dad used silicone the way most dads use duct tape. I was just saying that it's not cheap. You posted accurate prices; the difference is in how each of us defines "cheap".
- $1/tube (crappy latex caulk) is cheap for me.
- $3/tube (WalMart brand silicone -- easier than finding a bargain at a lumberyard and seems to be the same stuff) is kinda expensive.

Maybe it's because I'm stingy, or maybe it's because I use a lot of it when I use it...

I agree with the IR lamp idea. A 125 watt IR lamp will keep you nice and warm in a 40 degree office if it's over your shoulder and pointed down at your face/hands. A flex headed floor lamp works well for this purpose.

IR lamp, space heater, incandescent bulb, stove-top element, ac/dc converter, christmas tree lights, all are eventually 100% efficient in converting electricity into heat.
The key is 'eventually'. It takes some time for photons striking a surface to add their energy to that surface and that surface to then radiate that energy, but 100 watts is 100 watts is 100 watts.
Of greater consideration is how much of that heat do you want heating you, and like right now!, as opposed to warming the air or walls and then having the conductive heat warm you?
A small heater in a small room is going to raise the temperature more quickly than a small heater in a large room.
This ratio of heat application to the smallest possible mass can be taken to an extreme for maximum effect.
The least costly and most effective method is to heat only the minimum mass needed to add heat to you or to retain as much of your internal heat as possible.
Or in the words of my dad, "Put on a sweater, already!"

Electric socks, people:
https://www.healiohealth.com/images/p...old-Feet-b.jpg

Yes and no.

From one standpoint, the heat energy you get out was already present in the air (and water vapor) in the room. But what you are failing to take into account, is that much of that stored energy (before the dehumidifier) was not actually in usable "heat" form, but was instead tied up in the energy used to "state change" water between a liquid and a gas (and this is a very noticeable amount of energy, if you work the numbers). Also, you are failing to take into consideration that if/when the water (from the catch area of the dehumidifier) happens (as if often the case) to be cooler than the surrounding air, then dumping that water "down the drain" effectively removes colder water from the house (leaving just the waste heat you produced to cool that water behind).

In both cases (the heat released from condensing water vapor, and the cold water down the drain) you are left with usable "waste heat" in the room (above and beyond the watts used to power the dehumidifier).

In this we agree. After all, the whole point of this discussion is to figure out how we can be comfortable for less energy used. And if/when your humidity level is way off (either too low, or too high), you will generally feel less comfortable!

However, if/when your humidity level is higher than you would otherwise like it to be (as if often the case in our house during the winter), you really do gain a bonus (in heating) by running a dehumidifier.

So by all means go for the humidity level you are comfortable with in the winter. And if/when (as is often the case in our place) the humidity would otherwise be "too high", there is no need to suffer, as your dehumidifier will also be a good "space heater" as a side-effect of its operation.

To each his own.

For me, I try to avoid the "penny wise and pound foolish" approach. The way I look at it, the extra cost for silicone (especially over the long term) is more than made up for by the fact that it works better and lasts longer (then the cheap caulk). So by going with the silicone I save more in heating now (due to it working better), plus I save the cost (and my time) to redo the job in later years. To me, both of those facts mean that the silicone is actually cheaper (at least when looked at from a "total cost of ownership" standpoint).

We have a very simple way of doing it. We put up thick curtains around the windows that cover the whole window. We keep them closed at night and we open them for free heat and light in the daytime, depending on where the sun is. We also hang out in rooms where the sun is hitting.

For us it's behavior more than anything. We rent so we aren't going to spend a ton of money improving somebody else's property and risk losing our deposit for making unauthorized mods.

Anything that creates heat, like a clothes dryer, is used at night.

We switched to curly lights. Our electric bill is down a little.

I unscrewed 2 of the 4 lights above the vanity in each bathroom. How much light do you need to do your business? And at 5 am who needs bright lights anyway?

But to get to the point of the thread, we got 2 space heaters. A more expensive one with a remote control for the bedroom and a nice hot one from Costco for the living room. We use those when it gets cold, and we leave the heater at 62 degrees F. That's the lowest the apartment complex will let you put it because they are afraid of pipes bursting.

Anyway, we are on the second floor and we don't get as much heat as I expected from the neighbors below. But last winter our highest oil bill for heating was about $100. When we started using the small space heaters, we are not only warmer but we have heat right where we need it, not heating rooms we aren't using. Our electricity bill probably went up a few bucks, but our oil bill is now down to about $40 a month, even thought it's been really cold.

Sorry, I don't keep track of exact numbers, and I can't tell you how much each appliance uses. I am just too busy. I wanted to do mods that would not mean complete renovation or getting in trouble with the landlord, but also make them lifestyle adjustments.

MA4T

There are two energy saving practices involving electric clothes driers.

1. Make a crude lint trap and exhaust the hot moist air into the house (can really fog up the windows)

2. Leave it hooked up normally, but dry clothes during the warmest part of the day because for every cubic foot of air your dryer spits out of your house, a cubic foot of outside air has to enter to replace it. If you do this during the coldest part of the night, more of the super cold air is entering your house.

This might be more less important in a big apartment building, because you might be sucking in warm air from your neighbors when you run your drier.

An old pair of nylons pulled over the vent hose does well. You can also buy diverters in the hardware store that will flip between in the house, and outside. I think they run $10 or $20. In the winter dad always pulled the vent hose off, taped over the exposed pipe with duct tape, and pulled an old nylon stocking over the hose to catch the lint.

-Jay

:eek: Sounds like a fire hazard. I'm majorly afraid of fires caused by driers. My parents had drier fires TWICE.

Once when I was little, mom tried to tumble dry a foam pillow. It caught fire and I never saw any flames but I waited outside in the cold while the firemen destroyed all my Christmas toys. My punching bag was either smoke-damaged or destroyed collaterally.

More recently, I was working for them and my sister was either living with them or visiting. I was at the computer crunching some numbers or something when my sister ran into the office, made some noises like Taz, and then ran out. Later I found out that she was trying to tell me that there was a drier fire. I have no idea what it was about or what ever happened. All I can remember is her sounding exactly like Taz and me just ignoring her.
https://tbn0.google.com/images?q=tbn:...lipart/TAZ.jpg

:eek: :eek: :eek: That sticker is no lie. Those things are NUTS! I've scorched nearby tools, melted loads of electric cords, and burned myself on those things repeatedly. Definitely beyond my comfort level unless I rig up something really good.

Dryer fires - gas or electric?

Electric.

Thanks. I was considering just such a mod, but now I'm rethinking it.

Could be either, but in most of the cases the dryer catches on fire because the user was not cleaning the lint screen after each load.

A clogged lint screen also puts a damper on efficiency. Long duct runs, and if there is lint buildup in your vent duct will also reduce efficiency and increase drying times. From an efficiency standpoint running with a 4 foot hose and a nylon on the end is probably the most efficient setup.

-Jay