oil change intervals?
 

I checked my oil over the weekend (doesn't happen often due to the hood taping and everything) and it was still almost at the full mark. It's been a while so I checked when I change the oil last. It was just over 3 months and 3100 miles ago :eek:, I haven't added any oil since the oil change. The oil looked very clean still, not black but dark honey colored :thumbup: . I think I will go another 1k-2k miles more before changing it. I usually go for 3k changes with the metro and 5k with my wifes car that uses synthetic. I put Shell 5w-30 mineral oil in the metro last change. I wouldn't classify the metro driving as severe, and most oems recommend 5k -7.5k intervals under those conditions.

Just wondered what intervals you guys use? Would you extend intervals due to lots of EOC?

In my 2007 Toyota Yaris, I use Mobile1 Extended Performance, which claims to safely allow up to 15,000 miles or one year before change. However I change it every 10,000 miles to be sure. I for one think that the every 3,000 mile change is a scam, a way for the auto industry to milk the general public of money.

I expect to get 300,000 miles from my car.

As to your issue, I would not change the oil until 5,000 or 7,500 since you're using natural oil....don't fall for the 3,000 scam.

I usually do 4k on dino oil

I usually do 4.5k on Dino and 9k on synthetic on my current vehicles. I think the 3000mile oil change is a huge scam too

5000-7500
 

For the 'Teg, I usually shoot for 5K-7.5K (depends on the severity of the conditions). With the TSX, the auto oil life meter rounds out to about 6.5K (all dino).

-Rick

3-5 for me

Once a year, whatever that works out to :D

(Anywhere from 7000-10000 km, running synth.)

I'm currently going 10000 - 20000 miles between oil changes. However, I built up to that distance over time. And our cars currently have very clean engines, using very high quality synthetic oil, and extremely high quality oil micro-filtration (all of which are factors that extend the useful life of oil). If I didn't have those factors, I would be hesitant to go over 5000 miles (if even that long).

If you really care about oil, I would hang out over on https://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/ubbthreads.php awhile. I think you'll learn more about oil than you ever wanted to know. ;)

Seriously, going "too long" on oil is not only bad for your engine, it's also (in my limited experience) bad for FE. But the thing is, you do save some money (not to mention hassle with an oil change) by actually using the "useful life" of your oil. And how long is "too long" varies with a lot of factors. Here are just a few of the factors that could have an effect:

If/when you use much better oil filtration than normal, you keep more of the microscopic dirt out of the oil. This not only helps the oil last longer, but it appears to help FE some (by having less "sand in the gears" as it were).

Oils all have "additive packs" to do useful things (for example, neutralizing acids produced by combustion). Over time these additives are used up, and when they are gone you really should change your oil (or you are "asking for trouble"). So a premium oil with more of these additives can last longer than a cheaper oil (btw: I use a very high end synthetic, so my oil is designed to last).

How clean your engine is, is yet another factor that can effect how long oil can last. The oil in a sludged up engine just isn't going to last as long as the oil in a clean engine.

Just because you oil can last, is no excuse for not checking the dipstick occasionally, as most cars lose at least a little oil (and how much often varies with many other factors). And so you really want to keep you oil "topped off", because FE is only one thing that can suffer when you oil level drops.

And those are just some of the factors to consider, when deciding how long to run between oil changes.

In Europe, oils are graded by the ACEA then put into categories. In America oils must meet a mimimum API standard, but are not graded by quality. Most synthetics in the U.S. will have the ACEA grade on the bottle. Keep in mind that if extended oil drains are to be practiced, then use a high quality oil filter.

Borrowed from the ACEA European Oil Sequences 2007

A/B : gasoline and diesel engine oils
A1/B1 Oil intended for use in gasoline and car + light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate viscosity of 2.6 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
A3/B3 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and car + light van diesel engines and/or for extended drain intervals where specified by the engine manufacturer, and/or for year-round use of low viscosity oils, and/or for severe operating conditions as defined by the engine manufacturer.
A3/B4 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use in high performance gasoline and direct injection diesel engines, but also suitable for applications described under A3/B3.
A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline and car + light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils may be unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.

Thanks for your input everyone.

I don't have one for my metro clench and I don't have one for any of anyone elses cars on here (unless you have an 89 xr7 or 98 taurus). I pretty much know what I am doing with my oil. I am mostly curious about oil change intervals others are using especially in regards to hypermiling. I know i have noticed what appears to be better oil life while hypermiling.