I agree with jacinto on the paint Job. It looks great and a great looking color, Gary.


That is what I'm inferring from the information you gave us on the condition that is causing the CEL to come on. Even though the CEL code for the O2 heater isn't being tripped. But remember YMMV (your mileage may vary) in other words...it may be something else that is causing your new O2 to trip the CEL.

Thanks Jacinto and Tom! The best part is, I used a $30 spray gun from the flea market. My friend Jaime and I bought each bought a gun at the market - my paint job came out better for some reason and yes, if you look at it close up, it's still glassy smooth (alot of dry sanding - that's the new wet sanding with just 3M discs).

Gary

It may have been giving two codes TomO. After it finished giving the code, it started flashing again. I can't remember if I let it go all the way through again or if I just assumed it had started over. Seems plausible it may have been giving a second code. I didn't think to check for two codes at the time. But speaking of YMMV. It appears at this point my car is using less gas than it was before I popped the new o2 sensor in. Yeah, I'm duly impressed Gary. For a pro to do that would have cost you thousands of dollars!

from the good folks at Global-Automotive:

Dear Valued Customer,

If the light goes off once the engine is hot, then the sensor is not the problem.

There is probably another dead sensor by the cat conv.

If your mechanic was unable to properly diagnose this then we suggest you take it somewhere else.

Buyer cannot automatically assume the new item is defective, especially if the vehicle was never hooked to a scanner.

The plugs also need to be cleaned and inspected to assure proper contact. There are many things that could be the culprite.

We have been sell these 5 wire sensors for over 10 years to hundreds of smog and emission shops with no problems or returns.

Thanks,
Management

I find the last statement particularly interesting... no problems or returns.
the mechanic did have the o2 sensor hooked up to a scanner, but all he was able to tell me is that the o2 sensor is throwing the code -- and therefor needed to be replaced. What does anyone think of the parts I highlighted?

I doubt they understand you have only one o2 sensor, I doubt the plugs would cause a problem, but whatever...you shouldn't have told them any conjectures about it stopping when getting warm, just giving them ammunition to decide not to give you a replacement.

true, I guess I don't want to replace it and am hoping I can get it working without needing to replace it.

The guy at the junkyard actually said it could be the connectors as well. But, yeah, I'm inclined to agree with you that that doesn't seem likely. They weren't causing a problem for the last o2 sensor.

Good point. ^_^

Stuck PCV valve maybe?

I Hate Global Auto!

Jacinto --
How's that O2 sensor working out?
I noticed your last fill up was 57mpg!
Gary

FYI I just put one of these $79 o2 sensors in a 96 HX and I have drove it 100 miles and it seems fine. I removed the P07 sticker that was on the sensor and it says VW Audi underneath, Nice huh? Well at least its working, the wires are also a little shorter than the stock L1h1

Thanks for asking Garyh. CE light is still coming on but I haven't done anything about it. Dunno what to do really. But it seems to be doing its job. I could pay $15 to find out if it is polluting more than before, which I guess would tell me whether it is working properly. The light still stays off once the car is warm. But, yeah, I think it is helping the mileage. This tank hasn't been nearly as good, tho. i think maybe it wasn't filled up to the tippy top, or maybe just different driving. It sure *sounded* like it was filled to the top. Haven't been driving as efficient anyway. Some highway driving but only at 60-65mph. But still faster than the 40s and 50s I was doing on a regular basis last tank. This tank I have been accelerating faster as well and driving faster overall. Probably be around 50mpg I'm thinking for this tank. I also had a bad master cylinder leak on me which prolly didn't help the FE much. That was toward the first half of the tank. That's been fixed, car is running fine now. Clutch pedal travel felt shorter right when it stopped working properly, and now it still feels short. Oh well. Nothing too major. How is your conversion coming along?

Good to hear the car is still running good enough even with the CEL issue.

Regarding the clutch master cylinder, they do have an adjustment on them, and my guess is that the mechanic who installed it, didn't adjust it the same as your last one, so that is probably why the pedal feels a little shorter now.

Hey Jacinto!
Can't find the time to do the conversion (not yet at least). This week I will put in my ebay ECU in the car and try to start it with the new brain. If that works, I'm going to buy a Bosch 13246 sensor at Kragens for $199. I only heard of one post where this sensor threw a CEL lite but most people have said it worked for them. I was thinking, the earlier 13246 used the Honda sensor. I hope they didn't replace it with cheaper versions or variants of the L1H1, but since it's being sold under the same model # I'll chance it.

I finally got a hold of lc3, the guy who did the first conversion. He's local to me so I think if I run into issues I can look at his car.

Anyways, I'll keep ya (and the list) posted.

I think I've reach the high end of my FE on this car. My car (a CA VX) will not break 56mpg (last fillup was 55mpg).
I've been getting kinda bored drafting trucks so now I'm taking it up to 80mph which is how I usually drive (but at that speed, I get high 40's).

Gary

I'm surprised there is so little difference between 80mph and drafting trucks!! high 40s for 80mph is very good. Better than what my car will do at that speed, but then again, I got the HRR tires in front. Good luck with your o2 sensor. Dunno what I'm going to do about my CEL at this point. I guess just continue driving it as is. Still haven't put the ECU in. just haven't had a minute nor do I understand how to get the floor cover back far enough to get proper accesss to the ECU.

I'll let ya know when I do it and I might even take some pictures.
I think you just pull the carpet back from the door area.
Gary

I have the same problem.
I had not this problem when my car was less than 110 000km (so, for me, this is not a normal operating).

One year after the begin of the problem, the CEL came on (Code 48).
This year, the CEL coming on 5 times.
Every time when I decelerate during a long time (downhill).
The CEL disappears when I restart the engine.

But after that, my idle is not normal (same problem that you)!!! And 500km after, the idle becomes normal !

It's the same when I disconnect the battery. Abnormal idle during 500km !


If I disconnect the LAF sensor, the engine runs perfectly (no hesitations) !!! But, of course, after few second, the CEL coming on.


In France and Belgium, a lot of vx owner have this problem (hesitations + CEL). But they have all the original LAF sensor.
So, in US, has someone this problem with a new sensor? Is there an improvement with a new LAF sensor?

If you buy the Honda manufactured part for $450 it should fix your problem. If you buy the $79 part I bought, it fixed my problem, but the CEL keeps coming on. It won't come on if I turn the engine off and then on again once it's hot. I don't know if my o2 sensor is doing its job right now or not. I assume it is. Because my fuel economy isn't dropping and the weather is getting colder. I haven't checked the emissions with the new o2 sensor which would help me determine if its doing its job properly. At this point I can't recommend you buy the cheapo one I bought. Your best bet is probably buying the $450 part directly from Honda. Maybe it'll be less in Belgium?

If you turn your car off when the engine is hot (the temp gauge has reached its highest point for at least a few minutes.) will the check engine light come on?

I got the 180$ part from oxygen sensor .net (i think).
It has worked fine for me over the last 8 k or so. when i put it in the constant stumble in lean burn was fixed. i never had any cel.
the only problem with mine is a slight idle bounce when the car is warming up. there is no bounce when warmed up, which doesnt take long, and i try not to idle too much while it is warming up anyway.

When I disconnect my LAF sensor, or when the CEL come on, I have no problem during ?lean burn?. But I have made this test during five kilometres. So I don?t know if fuel consummation is the same. But I suppose that it?s due to the ?open loop? function.

Is the AFR obligatory richer during ?open loop?? Does exists ?lean burn? during ?open loop??

I think it cost $320. I would try to buy a NTK sensor but it?s very difficult to find it in a Belgian shop.

If I restart the engine?
No (in normal condition).
Just when I decelerate during a long time (cold or hot) and only few times a year.


Was your problem exactly the same as me?
https://www.gassavers.org/showthread.php?t=5550

Here is a example :
https://fr.youtube.com/watch?v=IiTz8jA7fWM
(It is a climb). I push slowly on the pedal but the car doesn't accelerate, there are some small hesitations. Suddenly, with the same constant pressure, the car accelerates faster.

What happen exactly ?
Is it just when you stop the car?
Had you this problem before the new sensor?

I Know this post is from o7 but saga continues

However my bosch 13246 with a Sticker with Honda Part number 36532-p07-003

Makes the CEL come on CODE 41 comes.....

Love to KNOW what company sells a O2 Sensor for a Non CA 92 VX honda
that does not cost more then the cars worth

Coconut