Eh, hondata sucks, and this i-vtec stuff, the i never means the same thing, grr, I'll get to reading though, thanks!

Reading this I have been:
https://vtec.net/news/news-item?news_item_id=376015

I don't know if you know anything about vtec-e, but it seems that this is very similar. vtec-e practically shuts off one set of intake valves on it's 16 valve head, but what this does is restrict intake air flow at the valve so that the throttle can be WOT while not sucking a ton of air. This is part of the idea behind the WAI, allowing the same air flow with a greater throttle opening, how great!

The r18 is refered to buy Honda as a vtec-i. Its clearly not the k24 i-vtec in the Accord. which is a wonderful engine. To live with a K is a blessing. The Accord engine is a detuned monster in a very good way.

From what I understand there are 4 different types of vtec with "i" involved in them. I just don't bother mainly because I don't care, is the k24 in the accord the same as in the element?

Its my understanding that the Element, CR-v and Accord have the same engine in them. The TSX had the warmed up version. The Si has the smaller tuned version.

Another good mill in this class is the Mitsu 2.4L I4. Found in the Lancer Rally Art. Not the Lancer Oz or the EVO. Well the blocks basicly the same in the EVO.

My brother has a Laner Ralley Art. Its a wonderful car. the engine in it is wonderful. hp and tourge like the Accord engine and its own vtec copy head. not as refined a mill but a soild number 2 in the list. its a very fun car to drive. its late 90's sedan look is very dated but still yet a very good car. The best clutch of any car ive ever driven. The EVO short throw 5 MT is great. The mags have dished it. I see none of the glaring failures road test claim. Eric isnt a hypermiler by any means, nor is he a street racer. a autocrosser he is. The Lancer hasnt failed him yet. This from a guy that is building a Fiat X/19 open class ride. X/19 equals a underpowered Ferrari. After all Fiat owns the Prancing Pony.

PVC piping to hot air method
 

Okay, I bought a '97 Civic HX at the beginning of last summer. Once I got it running well I began to tune it and drive for fuel efficiency. The car had a cheapo 3" "Short ram" intake in the engine compartment that essentially used warm air. All summer I averaged 45mpg with a best of 47.7mpg. In mid-August I made a "cold air" intake out of 2"PVC piping and the cone from the ebay-intake---an awesome idea I need to Patent. My freind and I call them poop-poo shoot intakes. Since then I have commuted from Tulsa to Stillwater (~70miles) for school every weekend. My fuel economy dropped to about 41mpg but it does feel torquier. My driving habits before I began the Stillwater to Tulsa commute at 75mph had not changed and still netted the 41.5ish mpg. This last weekend I made a hot-air poop-poo shoot. I wedged the air filter between the radiator hoses (no kinks or anything damaging here) facing the exhaust manifold and plumbed it all in. I'll let you all know the improvements between hot or cold air in mpg for my highway crusin' HX. I know the theory behind hotter air being less dense makes sense for fuel economy and the PVC has smooth transitions for less pipe friction--especially if you have less degreed bends for better performance either cold or hot air involved.

Here's a how to Make a Poop-Poo Shoot Warm or Cold Air Intake:
To make a poop-poo shoot intake buy a 2"-2" rubber PVC hose clamp to attach to the engine (for civics anyways), a length of 2" PVC piping, PVC angled pipes, PVC primer and cement, a hack saw, drill, sand paper, scotch bright pad, flat black paint, duct tape, marker, tape measure, flat head screwdriver, and a 3" cone filter ( maybe some gasket sealer and dryer ducting ).
Remove old intake. Decide how you want to run the tubing--measure twices cut once. I wouldn't put the PVC within 3" of exhaust. Once all the pieces are cut, mock assembly and mark where peices fit and number the pieces 1-whatever. Also mark holes to drill in the piping for IAT sensor and PCV hose. (The IAT sensor fits in a small piece of 3/8" fuel rubber fuel line.) Drill out slowly while test fitting making sure to get a secure fitment. Then ruff up the outside of PVC piping and angles with a scotch bright pad if you want to paint it--don't take off the markings for assembly. Then, Use about 800 grit sand paper and lightly ruff up the connection parts for the pvc. Next, primer and cement pieces together one at a time with markings aligned. Use formagasket on PCV tube and sensor Hose if you made the holes to big. Then hang somewhere and spray paint it whatever color you want--I prefer flat black. Then wrap the filter end with duct tape until the filter is snug--only wrap to the edge leaving some overhang. Cut of the overhang duct tape with a seraded edged knife. Finally, install in the car with the rubber PVC 2" attachment piece and attach the IAT senor in front of the PCV tubing in the direction of flow. Pat yourself on the back for saving money on a cold air intake or saving gas for about $10 worth of PVC parts.

P.S. I plan on using the aluminum tubing you guys used to plumb it into the headers heat. It is pretty close already though.
You guys are awesome for giving me the hot air idea!
Kent

SLOW DOWN! That is the easiest way to save on gas.

I am with you on the homemade intakes. I am constantly changing up my intake in search for a more efficient ride.

Stock, Cold, Hot, or somewere inbetween.

I normally drive 70-75--the speed limit--but the long night drives to and from stillwater on the turnpike sometimes lead to top speed experiments---only the two mentioned actually

Does anyone know what the optimal air temp is? I don't want to get close to detonating, but this is too easy not to try. I'm thinking you can pull air from two sources (one cold, one hot) and use a Y with a flapper (Similar to what the HVAC unit uses to pull cold or hot air) to pull the right amount from both sources to reach the optimal temp. Using a cruise control style relay to adjust the flapper based on temperature could even automate it. It's late for me, so if I didn't make any sense, please excuse me. :D

Oooooh, this makes alot of sense, switching from "hot" to cold mode. I would probably be more primitive. One control for hot, one for cold, in order to have a "mix" that I can monitor from the Scangauge. For me, 100% cold would be the "stock" routing to bring my car back into normal running mode. Ha ha, maybe "hot and cold" faucet taps mounted on my dashboard!!!

Now where do I put the kitchen sink?

CarloSW2