Next thing you want to do is montor the voltages across the d14-d16 wires.

-.78 at start, .22 at warm idle, negative for rich burn and switches to positive .3-.5 for lean burn.

I started with an aging o2 that was pushing the lean burn readings way high and it was missing badly. I played with the resistor some and got it working pretty good.... but a new l1h1 and bam it is flawless.... no missing, just the noticable loss of power as it transistions.

O2 sensor fuctions
 

1 - Heater Positive orange
3 - Chassis Ground yellow
5 - ECM Ground looped back to 7
7 - Label Resistance Input looped back to 5
2- Blank
4 - Cell Voltage Input red
6 - Pump Cell Control white
8 - Reference Voltage black

is this right???
 

1 - Heater Positive -----------orange---------------Yellow/Black-----A6
3 - Chassis Ground -----------yellow----------------Black-----------A23
5 - ECM Ground---------------looped back to 7-----Green/White-----N/A
7 - Label Resistance Input-----looped back to 5-----White-----------N/A
2- Blank
4 - Cell Voltage Input---------red ------------------White/Blue------D8
6 - Pump Cell Control---------white-----------------Orange/Blue-----D14
8 - Reference Voltage--------black------------------Orange---------D16

you can't loop back the resistor wires, they need to go to the proper ecu pins... the ecu definately does different stuff with varying resistance values (my default was about 6K ohms and I varied it up to a couple a mega ohms). The voltage delta across the pins gives the ecu some sort of indiaction of the calibration of the o2 sensor.

you have to loop them back, its done in the sensor's connector, and I have no intention off taking the connector apart

>>you have to loop them back, its done in the sensor's connector,\

Not sure what you mean.... they go to separate ECU pins and there is a voltage delta across them. The amount of the voltage varies how the ECU responds to the O2 readings (inferred because I varied the resistance from 6K ohms to several megaohms.... which varied the voltage delta up to nearly 10 volts, which made an aged, nearly bad O2 sensor work within reason.

They go to d3 and d22, although which goes to which shouldn;t matter. You make work without this (the delta then is 12v indicating high resistance 0 but you will run better with them hooked up (assuming the O2 is good and the resistor represents the proper calibration)

You have 5 wires on the O2 sensor and 7 on the oem plug from the car. if you look at the back of the sensor plug you will see that two of the 7 wires are linked with a smal knob of plastic(resister) and the other 5 wires go off into the sensor.

I just wish someone would post a clear post as to where all 7 wires from the plug go EXACTALLY.

is this right???

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1 - Heater Positive -----------orange---------------Yellow/Black-----A6
3 - Chassis Ground -----------yellow----------------Black-----------A23
5 - ECM Ground---------------looped back to 7-----Green/White-----???
7 - Label Resistance Input-----looped back to 5-----White-----------???
2- Blank
4 - Cell Voltage Input---------red ------------------White/Blue------D8
6 - Pump Cell Control---------white-----------------Orange/Blue-----D14
8 - Reference Voltage--------black------------------Orange---------D16

I did a few posts back on 7/11/07. Here it is again:

Pin, Wire color, wire color, one of many names the lead is referred to:
-------------------------------------------------------------------
D8 Blk/Yel Red VS+, VS, VNB sense Negative Pump Cell, Sensor 1
D14 Wht/Blk White IP+. Pump current Positive Pump Cell, Sensor 2
D16 Wht Black IP-, VS-, VS/IP, common Ref Voltage

A6 Yel/Grn Orange HTCNTRL Heater Pos
A23 Blk/Grn Yellow PG1 Heater Ground

D22 Or n/a SG2 Resistor
D3 Or/Blk n/a LABEL Resistor

Note that the wire colors can vary from O2 brand to O2, and the harness's are not always consistent.

Just take the 6th and 7th wires.... the ones that dead end in the connector, and connect them to D3 and D22, in either order. The ECU applies 12 v to one of them and reads the voltage on the other to get the calibration of the sensor. You might very well work w/o these connections, but you will work better with them. And if you have an O2 sensor that is nearing the end of its life, you may... may be able to get some more life out of it by playing with the resistance values, but that is another subject.

Oh, and I sure got mine working sweet now.... I just pulled a 68 mpg tank averaged over 325 miles.