i can't now but I'll try tomorrah.

Is it possible the o2 sensor is not compatible with my car? Frickin' mechanic snipped the wires to my old o2 sensor! Can't believe it. Better be able to get this one working.

Colin, I'm also having a CEL light! No more stutter, car is running buttery smooth now, but high idle (idle was high before as, well tho, and mechanic thinks high idle may be due to a faulty ECU) and the CEL is now on.

Anyway, should I not drive it with the CEL on? My old o2 sensor had the wires cut to remove it (damn mechanic cut the wires without warning) so I can't exactly reinstall the old one.

that's because you know more than him!
Well, the O2 sensor is working if it solved your hesitation, power surge, whatever, but I'm not sure what to make of the CEL.

I'm thinking the calibration resistor is slightly different. Can you measure
the resistance of the two?

Gary

I can't believe he cut the wires to your O2. What an idiot! Probably thought you didn't want it.. should of told him otherwise before he touched it.

You can continue driving with the CEL light in my opinion.
Gary

High idle... check for vacuum leak.:D Have you checked the idle screw on your throttle body? Some hack had backed mine way out, so when I got everything fixed (timing belt, IACV, O2 sensor) my idle was still high at about 1100rpms. I had noticed that the screw looked messed with (paint all scratched, screw was actually loose) so I adjusted it by tightening it down and it brought my idle under control.

I also replaced my O2 unit with one of the blue wire varieties and it works fine, no codes and good idle. Before the swap it was coding for a new O2 sensor (code 40 something). Have you reset the ecu (do this after checking for codes)? Just pull the fuse to it for 10 seconds or so and replace. Good luck.

Well, the mechanic thought the ECU in my car might be bad and possibly the culprit for the high idle (idle was high before I swapped o2 sensors, but now it is a little higher, only dropping when the car is stopped.) I have a new ECU I want him to install, and will probably have him do it today. So maybe when they're swapped the check engine light will be reset and everything will be honky dorey. THe mechanic didn't find a vacuum leak when he was trying to solve the idle issue awhile ago. I don't know if he checked the idle screw. I imagine he did. I think I had mentioned it to him. Thanks for the info tho.

Don't think it's the idle screw, think you should get rid of the mechanic and start doing your own work, burning money man, burning it.

Particularly if you're just swapping out the ECU. You need a 10mm socket and a ratchet to drive it. It might cost you $20 to buy them if you don't already have a basic tool set. Heck... $40 should buy you a small set (just make sure you get metric tools) and would probably still cost you a good bit less than what the mechanic's going to want.

Agreed. He sounds like he doesn't know what he's doing at all. You should always ask a customer if it's alright to cut the damn wires before installing something that shouldn't have the wires cut to install it...duh.

I'm very skeptical that the ecu will fix your idle. Generally if the ecu is bad, the car will act very strange, not just idle high. In all of the Hondas I've owned, adjusting the idle screw and making sure too much tension isn't on the throttle cable has always fixed the idle being off. :confused:

MY predictions:

• You are throwing a code 42
• You will dump your mechanic
• The CEL being on is what is causing your non-hesitation issue (it's ignoring the O2 sensor now and running open loop all the time, decreasing your gas mileage)
• You will go out and buy a metric socket and wrench set for cheap
• You will be able to work on your own car through our help
• You will be able to save a sh*t-ton of money doing it all yourself
• The high idle is either a messed with idle screw or vacuum leak, trust me!

Once you get the CEL taken care of (either get your mechanic to re-install the old one once he SOLDERS the old wires back on the old sensor or buy you a new one from Honda), turn the idle screw clockwise until it is snug (once the car is warmed up). Then turn it counterclockwise until your tach is reading about 600RPM without the climate control fan, A/C, radio, lights or anything else on in the car.

Well's, here's what I think. I think the new sensor is probably a regular 4 wire sensor. When you changed it out it puts the ecu into a open loop mode, where it largely ignores most of the sensors and just runs it on the rich side of things. Consequently, it smoothed out the idle, but your not going to get any mileage worth anything.

If your really lucky, maybe he didn't cut the old sensor wires right at the nub of the sensor. If he left you 1/4 inch or so, then you should be able to reattach the old wiring and reinstall the old sensor. If you do and the sensor light stops coming on, then that's the problem. If you want to try replacing the ecu, their are 4 nuts which hold the cover on, under the passengers side floor mat. Remove the nuts, unplug the connectors, remove the ecu. Reverse with the replacement.

I wouldn't do anything additional, until you get it back to where the cel light is not coming on. Then, if you need to, get a sensor from a regular source and try it.

With a VX, their are some people who have had the idle issues you seem to be having, who have only been able to get it to work correctly by replacing the sensor with a new, authentic one.

At least the sensor should be removable, now, without doing anything to hard.

If I were the mechanic, my perspective would be that your bringing me the parts, my only responsibility is to install it. If it does or doesn't work, at that point is your deal, since your sourcing the parts. Like SVOboy said, you might as well just get some tools and start doing it yourself, instead of paying someone else to do it, for you. Good Luck

It's really weird how some VX's can use the $79 LAF sensor from Global-Automotive and some can't. Could it be that the Canadian ECU is set up differently than the 49 state ECU?

AND, it is always better if you are the mechanic. At least, you know who f***ed up and why!!!!! I wish "professional" mechanics had more training. I have had my share of headaches with them over the years.

Okay, I've counted the wires. So it's not a 4 wire o2 sensor. There are 5 wires. I took a photo of it somewhere.

It did NOT smooth my idle. It smoothed my acceleration. The idle has been high now when coasting in neutral, and drops only when I stop the car. Another thing I noticed, probably from bump starting today for the first time with the new o2 sensor is that the idle is now bouncing. 1000-1200 or something like that. It goes down to about 800 at a stop.

I want to be really clear about the Check Engine Light. It only comes on after one minute or after I turn the car on. It does NOT come on immediately upon starting the car. Furthermore, when I turned the car off for some engine off coasting, when I bump started, the light did not come on again. Not after one minute, not after ten minutes. I did three bump starts on the return trip and there was no problem bump starting. Now my question is, will the CEL come back on when I start the car again? I didn't test it because I really didn't want to see the CEL come on again during my ride home. :p

TomO, why do you think it is in "open loop"? Should there be some hesitation? No one has actually answered me ever as to how much hesitation is normal if any. Lot of VX owners out there. Some feedback on that would be appreciated. I do know that Canada (I believe) did say his car no longer has any hesitation issues with his new o2 sensor, which was the SAME o2 sensor as mine.

I guess the reason I'm a little agitated right now is, because, one, I'm stressed out about my mechanic cutting the wires (He didn't cut them at the nub, over an inch or so.)

Well, it sounds like the cel comes on when the O2 sensor is warmed up and put to use, to me, that is...:p

I'm gonna go test the CEL now cause I have to go to town. Also, I'll see if I can find the reset thingy for the CEL.

CEL came on couple minutes after I started the car. :( Gonna go try and find that gray jumper.

Yeah, I have no idea how to whatever the jumper for the CEL. what.

Posting pictures momentarily.

Well, to be honest, we were just trying to help.

I don't think the issue is when the cel light comes on. The issue is that it wasn't coming on, before. Ya don't want to know, Ok.

I predicted it! Let the record show that I predicted it! Me!

https://bp1.blogger.com/_Y8WoJeZ-J4c/...00/CEL+003.JPG

https://bp1.blogger.com/_Y8WoJeZ-J4c/...00/CEL+004.JPG

Okay, so very clearly, very "CEL code checking for dummies" -- very overly stating the obvious, what do I do?

I see your ecu...no need to pay someone to change it...

Looks like you need to put a paper clip in both pins of the smaller one.

Wait what? The old o2 wasn't coming on. The new o2 is coming on. The new o2 stops coming on when I turn the car off and jump start it. Sorry if I am being belligerent, I just feel like neither route will avail me, and I'm torn between stodgy know it all professionals and self empowered educated guessing amateurs. (That sounds mean, I don't mean it to be.) I am very appreciative of this forum. I think the sheer amount I post on here should be some testament to that. I'm just stressed out right now because the mechanic is such a douche. Given that, I do think he knows his stuff, given the sheer number of cars he's worked on and his experience. Anyway, sorry for coming across unappreciative. The other thing is, I just don't have much confidence in my self doing my own work on my car.

I was thinking about this too (the first part). I really want to put my new ECU in and see if the o2 sensor will work better with the new ECU. Although I suppose there is no logic for why it would.

Can I do any damage if that isn't correct?

Well, it's really troublesome he cut the old o2 sensor up. I don't spose you like soldering? Hmmm... I would get the o2 sensor in there and swap the ecu and see if that does anything (I doubt it though) and then I would throw a **** fit at the people who sold you the o2 for your money back.

If that is the only 2 pin plug dangling not plugged into it I would say I'm 99% sure it's the plug I think it should be. I've never seen any others down there.

First thing I do is I turn the key to the on position, right?

I then take a metal paper clip right? Does it have to be metal or will an insulated one work? I bend it to make a U shape? I stick the two ends into either hole in that blue thingmajig?

Correct?

I then take my video camera and film the flashing lights and tell you guys what they did. And let you guys decipher. :D Thanks.

Metal is best, since it needs to conduct...might have to start the car, forget if it'll just flash in key on, but yea.

48

I didn't get electrocuted and the car didn't blow up!

4 long and 8 short.

SVOboy or anyone else have AIM?

IM me at chesterules if you like.

See...you need to just get in there with small stuff and you gain more and more confidence, that's how I started...

Man, I completely forgot I put this online: https://crxmpg.com/obd1ecucodes.html

I love myself, :p, wish I had more time to make my site good...

Your sensor is bogus.

Heh, cool. So it's the Lean Air Fuel Sensor. Is that part of the o2 sensor?

Would someone please tell our less experienced 'savers to use the pdf helm manual! Okay I guess I will. The manual shows everything and is pretty good at instructing how to check codes with the service port off the ECU. SVOboy has a amateur mechanic's wisdom well beyond his chronological age.

All you need to do is google "honda civic helm pdf" and go down the list to the General Tech Help hit. Download and you've hit pay dirt. It works today so don't delay and download it!

Anyone who tries to repair a Honda without the helm manual deserves the trouble he got himself into. Hell, it's hard enough even when you've got one!

Oh yeah, I should've mentioned the helms...sometimes I feel like I know too much for 19, but then I realize I know less than I did when I was 17, :p

Anyway, IM me if you want jace, I'm cruisur on aim.

Does anyone else want to corroborate on SVOboy's finding? TomO? What do you think?

Dude: You are being belligerent, stupid and ignorant. You want to pay your mechanic to fix the car, but want to beef, go beef at him. As far as experience, education or anything else goes, I believe I am as good as any mechanic you can find, only with a whole lot more education. Before you go blasting the folks that were trying to help you, you ought to consider the possibility that they might know a whole lot more than you think. The guidance you were given was solid, sound and based upon your information. Garbage in, garbage out. You wanted help, you got help. That help was not based on wild armchair whoopela, it was based on some hard core, hard learned experience.

Your pissed cause your mechanic did exactly what you were told to do, tough go find some other place to...

I did buy a socket set. It's a bunch of metric sockets with an extender. I'm ready to work! heh. I want to uninstall my ECU and install the new one. I can use my socket set for that?

The plugs can only go in one way and in the specific connector.
So, I doubt you can damage it esp if you're careful. Just to be
paranoid, ground yourself....
Gary

I use a paperclip.

How do I locate that fuse? Thanks.

It's in the fusebox under the hood, look around til you see something that looks like a fusebox, should be on a shock tower.

Also, you can just disconnect the battery.