I'll bet it's still fine... Viscous coupling or not -- minimizing relative velocities is always good :thumbup: Overshooting, however, could be more dangerous in an auto.

Mr. Drover...

If you coast in Neutral and place it back into D, you rev-match -- so yup, you can with an auto.

All-

In other news, I rev-match the 'Teg to just about 500-750 RPM under expected final engagement. The engine's momentum with some throttle input allows a smooth match, then the TC thumps-in (at appropriate speeds).

The worst situation is to over-rev and bomb it. It's easier on it to clunk than slip.

RH77

Well yeah you CAN on an auto but there isn't much a of point in it since the torque converter takes care of most of it, you'd be rev matching from idle to like 1800 RPMS.

Cost - Benefit Ratio. But yeah, good question. Not sure how long mine will last, but I'll be excited to swap a manual in there.

But during the service, the cost and time when it's out of commission isn't really a pleasant thought. Still looking at a daily driver here...

RH77

you didnt have to respond :) i was just being a wiener.

Have you seen my baseball?
 

I know, it's all good :thumbup: I was responding to a line of serious threads at the time and kept it rolling -- plus I miss driving a stick...

Due to that, I generally feel the need to verbalize the admission that I'm not "intentionally trashing the transmission" to get a 5-speed. EOC may shorten the life, which is OK, but I haven't seen any failures, first hand, to stop the practice.

The only manual I've driven in the last year was in a '55 Chevy with a Hurst "Rock-Crusher" 4-speed. It was fun, but I'll admit that I'm a bit rusty. I miss having a daily driver with a stick. It's a shame they don't rent cars here with the manual -- I'd have one every week. :o

RH77

I kinda forgot about this thread. I want to know for sure that rev matching when switching back form N to D is ok to do on the auto tranny. When i go 59mph its 2500 rpm exactly. If i switch it from N to D without revving it up to 2500 it is alot harder lurch if i rev up it lurch very very little and most people cant tell i even changed out of drive.

I usually rev match after a restart with my AT by catching the rev jump right after startup.

It basically comes down to how soon I engage D after starting. At highway speeds, I'll dump it in D right after the engine catches. If I'm stopped or moving slowly, I'll wait for the revs to come down so I don't N-bomb it.

I don't rev match on my slushbox. It may suck gas and induce mental illness in trying to boost the mileage to any real degree but the thing goes from N to D like butter.

Yeah I really don't understand what you are trying to do Pat. If you are giving it 0% throttle the torque converter should allow it to coast in drive at about 12-1500 RPM's, which shouldn't lurch at all.