https://www.imagestation.com/picture/...7/e8111207.jpg
Pictures > Words, lol. I took a picture to help visualize what I typed. The Valve Stem Seals can be replaced without taking the motor out of the car. If you have good mechanical confidence then it's cheap and easy. If you have to take it in to get done it can be expensive. |
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the cable is under the left lower bolt in your last pic. My finger is pushing the metal tab that the cable goes through to the right in the picture I took.
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Haha!! I feel like a newborn that has just discovered his opposable thumb ... or something. I would have NEVER IN A MILLION YEARS ever figured that out. I see why it got stuck. It's kind of caked with sand in there. Any suggestions on how I can clean it? I could just spray WD40 in there, but it seems like sand and grit is causing it to get stuck. easy enough to just move it out of the way, too, tho. Thanks!! By the way, if you haven't figured it out yet, I'm a complete n00b to tinkering with cars. I know absolutely nothing about them, but bought this car with the hope to learn how to do some things on my own and not rely on a mechanic all the time! Seems like I found a good place to get started! Thanks again! That was a surprisingly easy fix. Hehe.
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You're extremely welcome, in fact, I'm going to add this thread to my links for anyone else looking for a fix for the sticking hood latch.
You should take the time to set up your garage and gaslog on here. as well as filling out your location and such. |
Well, there's only one small problem... the speedometer sometimes doesn't work as well. I was told I can get the part for like $40, but I don't wonder if it's not just a loose cable that needs to be tightened?
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It could be a loose connector. I've had several of the connectors (speedometer, backup lights. oxygen sensor) toward the front of the engine compartment fail. I put a touch of conductive grease on each of the connector's contacts and reseated the connector to fix the problem. I've also had the speedometer sending unit fail too.
The rust problem in the back wheel well is caused by a poor design feature in the wheel well. On the inside of the wheel well underneath where that rust spot is there is a small shelf that collects road debris and moisture. I cleaned that shelf off and formed a slope of JB Weld on that shelf to eliminate the flat area so it wouldn't collect debris anymore. |
JB Weld? I've got a lot of learning to do before I do these DIY projects myself! But thanks for the tips! At some point I want to scrape out all the loose rust, prep it, chemical treat it to keep it from continuing to rust, then fill it with bondo, smooth it out and finish it with some touch up paint!
Umm.. how do you get 70mpg with your Civic CX? did you convert it to a hybrid!? Oh, I see, coasting with the engine off. Highly illegal doncha know! Do you have any write ups of your fuel saving tips and techniques? Edit: I didn't recognize what your pic was until I looked at your profile. Now I understand why your average is so high. |
1993CivicVX -
Welcome to GS! As you can see, there are already lots of "VX Advisors" in your camp, :) . From looking at the pictures, if I were you, I'd try to clean the hood latch with a cheap toothbrush and WD40 like you said. CarloSW2 |
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Note, Washington (and Colorado too I think) has specifically made it illegal for semi-trucks to coast with the clutch in, but stopping a fully loaded truck (which frequently runaway) and stopping a metro are two completely different scenarios. https://apps.leg.wa.gov/RCW/default.aspx?cite=46.61.630 (1) The driver of any motor vehicle when traveling upon a down grade shall not coast with the gears of such vehicle in neutral. (2) The driver of a commercial motor vehicle when traveling upon a down grade shall not coast with the clutch disengaged. |
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