Solid Lifters
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As far as IATs go, I've been running relatively stock air of between 50-100F, so detonation probably isn't an issue. After the car came back from the body shop, the PCV catch valve was upside-down (they probably messed with it -- darnit), so all that gunk was sucked back into the engine. Perhaps time for Seafoam or Auto-Rx? I did a full-RPM run-up today to see if there were any misses or abnormalities, and the only thing I noticed was a big increase in power. It really took off. Then again, I haven't really "ran-it" for a few months for FE. ...and FE is up. Timing advance may be a issue to consider. I'll take a look at the SG's timing numbers tomorrow (if that will show anything). Since the stereo's not working right now, I can really hear the engine all the time during my commute. Climbing a hill sounds like an old Mercedes Diesel (no smoke, thank goodness). Anyways, I'll add valve adjustment to the list of maintenance items :rolleyes: RH77 |
Interference engines tend to have solid lifters, right?
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Yesh, I think you're right. It's just that interference engines breather better, so manufacturers that want to see good mileage by using small displacement but don't want to get beat out in the hp wars use 'em to boost output.
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How much time to perform?
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I asked my wife (the original owner) and she states that the valves have never been adjusted, just routine maintenance. So...once the valves are back into spec, is it reasonable to assume a change in FE (please say for the better :D ). I'm getting bolder with doing my own repairs, so I usually like to ask what I'm getting into here. Gary did an excellent job of explaining the process, which is nearly identical to the shop manual. I suppose that a new valve cover gasket and proper torque/sequence of replacing the cover bolts is expected. Otherwise it sounds straightforward to rotate the crank around and get the valves lined-up for adjustment. The oil needs changed anyway, so I assume that would probably be required as well, for good procedure. Is this on par with say, replacing a brake caliper assembly, but perhaps more time consuming with the time taken on each valve??? Thanks again... -RH77 |
It's a simple process, the hard part is getting just the right "feel" with the feeler gauge. You'll find you can get the correct feel during the adjustment but it changes as you tighten the adjustment lock nut. You'll have to anticipate that change during the adjustment so that when the lock nut is tightened, the gap is correct. This will make more sense when you do it. Not sure of your specific engine but my Civic requires that the engine be cold before doing the valves. I usually do my adjustments on Saturday or Sunday morning before starting the car.
-- Scott |
...good to know
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RH77 |
You're supposed to hold the adjustment screw with your screwdriver while you tighten the lock nut but the adjustment will still change. Not a huge deal but part of the procedure needed to get it done correctly.
-- Scott |
omgwtfbyobbq -
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CarloSW2 |
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I had a timing chain fail on a '77 Olds with 80K miles. Granted it was 16 years old at the time, but it broke. 350 V-8: Not an interference engine :p RH77 |
Wasn't it larry's chain breaking that totalled his old saturn?
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