theclencher -

Yup. If you have the ability, you could try to purchase green energy. That way, you could feel good knowing that you are at least polluting less.

If I had the druthers, I would try to figure out an engine block heater that works the same as a solar hot water heater. I think you would need a solar panel to run the pump that moves the engine coolant to the black solar tubes on the roof. But it wouldn't be viable for 1/2 the year in places with snowy winters, :( . Gotta be totally doable, but don't look for a payback time anywhere in the near future.

CarloSW2

I was just trying to suggest more of an apples vs apples comparison while your comparing apple orchard to apple orchard! ;-)

I guess the key thing here is optimizing energy usage, and using a block heater still uses energy unless it's the free stuff in the sky (which costs so much to harness - especially around here). It would be nice to know that a block heater is say net energy positive under certain conditions.

Carlos, a solar coolant heater would be cool although there isn't much light in northern climes and some hypermilers might freak if they had to add solar orientation to their parking rituals! ;-) It wouldn't be hard, a pump, perhaps solar powered, would be required to circulate the cool water up to the panel and the warmed coolant water back into the block. It sure won't help in the morning when it is coldest and it's still dark out but it could help by keeping the car warm during the day, provided it doesn't snow. Still, solar cells dumping their excess after battery charging intro a block heater might be much simpler.

I already do this :D (the solar oriented parking, not the freaking).

Fair enough. But you have to go first. Remember to include the food needed for you to operate the vehicle and all the fossil fuels needed to get it to your table. ;)

Nah, cuz that's the energy cost or purchase and maintain, while the energy cost to operate is what you and the car need. I mean, if we're gonna look at it seriously that is... :D

I'm curious..... when you disconnected the alternator, what ran the water pump, radiator fan and power stering pump?

A strip of rubber from an inner tube fashioned into a short belt; electrons as per usual; power what? :)

On my Saturn I found a belt that runs only the AC and water pump. There is no adjustment but it fits nice. It is not quite tight enough to run the AC. The round belt from McMaster jumped off once about a mile from home. It would have been fine for a V-pulley.

I made a 150 mile trip and was still above 12 volts.

Now, does this mean I need to start listing my car with the hybrids becasue I charge the batteries every night? ;)

Re: Alternator v. no alternator - 10% gain @ 70 km/h
 

Re-hashing an old thread because I'm looking for input.

Here's what I've got:
2 gel type deep cycle batteries from a power wheel chair. New two years ago, have seen little use this year. I only used them to run an inverter at camp for power. These batteries are still in very good shape. They keep a power chair up to power for 1.75 days.
These batteries also need to be kept up in working order. They are spares for my good friend's powerchair. I need to cycle them and keep them in use in case we need to replace the batteries in her chair. These will keep her mobile in the couple of day it takes to get/install/charge new batteries.

I have a trickle charger that shuts off automatically.

I have heavy cables left over from car audio projects. Enough length /connectors to make it to the trunk area (or somewhere under the hood?).

I have switches and wiring/connectors to make an altenator cut off switch. (need schematics for this)

Here's what I think I need:
A digital volt meter
Schematics for the altenator cut off
A place to put the donut tire
What else?



Complications:
I drive about 75% of the time at night. (for work) Headlights are 55w each plus running lights. What would my range be without kicking on the altenator? Obviously less in weather where wipers would be in use. Kicking on the altenator would negate most gains from using the system because you lose them when you recharge the batteries with it.
I'd like to wire these batteries in parallel to my stock battery. Would this cause damage to the stock battery (from discharging so far)? Is there an inexpensive way to isolate the regular battery to just starting the car? Maybe I could just hook up the deep cycle batteries only.... Is there enough cold cranking amps to turn over the car in two deep cycles? Maybe I could instead wire the deep cycles in where the existing terminals are, then run a new set of wires just to the starter from the regular battery? Then charge that one with the trickle charger separately?
New home for the spare.
Colder temps=lower amps.


I'm sure many of these questions have already been answered, but it's worth asking I think.
B

Re: Alternator v. no alternator - 10% gain @ 70 km/h
 

Forgot to add:
Dad's got a 12v solar maintainer he'll give me. I believe it was around $100 from amazon which means its around 15watts. It would be a great addition to this system. I'd probably install it in the cammback flush to keep aero happy.

Problem is, he had it installed at camp on a deep cycle battery over the summer. He said it killed (made the battery require replacement) the battery after a few months. The battery could have died of natural causes, who knows. It sat for 6 months during the warm time of the year and was dead at the end. It wasn't a new battery.

What could cause a solar charger to do that? Is it more likely it died on it's own?
B