One thing to consider;Coolant is corosive, and engine oil runs about 10 degrees hotter. If you put a remote oil filter adapter on you car (where the oil filter goes) it has an in and an out oil line.You can then use these lines to run to your fuel heater.No corrosion worries, and hotter temps. I am planning this for my truck.The out line will run to a small radiator type oil cooler,mounted in the air intake, and an inline fuel heatwer similar to the ones pictured from e-bay in earlier post.Then to the remote oil filter, and back to the engine.Gonna put a temp. switch in the intake, just before the carb, to turn the radiator fan on at 200 degrees.And an oil temp sending unit in the fuel line, just before the carb, and insulate the lines.My goal is to have the intake air and the fuel going into the carb both at 200 degrees, no more than say,... 215. Challenge I'm dealing with crrently; In cold climates, for the oil cooler to heat the intake air to 200 degrees, the oil might have to be a lot hotter than 200 degrees, and so my truck might overheat due to the radiator fan not going on.Then gonna build an isulated box with a small fan and wieghted louvers that surrounds my intake and exhaust manifold. Temp swith in there will turn fan on (which opens louvers) at 400 degrees. So, for me, its 200 degrees for gas and air, before the carb, and 400 degrees after.Below the carb, bonna have a funnel shaped double layer of fine mesh SS screen, with the sides at a 45 degree angle to the airflow.May need a low pressure turbo, to keep the expanding vapor from creating back pressure. Gonna use OMNI-Valves on the intake, to prevent catastrophic backfire, AND to increase vacuum, and gapless rings, also for enhancing vacuum.May include a steam and or exhaust gas sytem, to inject a small amount of each/either, (adjustable) into the inake stram, just before the valves.This would add additional heat to the mix, to keep it from cooling/condensing in the combustion chamber.Anyway, thats the essence of my plans so far.Jim
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