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05-31-2007, 06:47 PM
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#11
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,516
Country: United States
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Definitely. Hopefully someone can grab one of those HT Peltier modules and see how much power it''ll make since they're relatively cheap ~$15 each plus S&H. If I could make enough to recharge my battery after starting, as well as power the headlights/radio, I'd be a happy camper. Everything else could go to LED np. Btw, here's what I was talking about.
Quote:
Model HT1-12710 (40mm - 127 couple - Power Generation)
$13.60 each (Qty 1-9 pieces)
$12.60 each (Qty 10-19 pieces)
$11.60 each (Qty 20+ pieces)
Model HT1-19802 (37mm - 198 couple - Power Generation)
$14.70 each (Qty 1-9 pieces)
$13.70 each (Qty 10-19 pieces)
$12.70 each (Qty 20+ pieces)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaTwo
I think if i could get that type of FE i would have no problem driving a dildo shaped car.
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05-31-2007, 07:28 PM
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#12
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Tuggin at the surly bonds
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 839
Country: United States
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Where did you find those? Do you know the specs (volts and current at what temp differential, max temp, etc.)?
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Reality is merely an illusion, albeit a very persistent one. - Albert Einstein
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05-31-2007, 07:30 PM
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#13
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 245
Country: United States
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This is so funny, just today a co worker gave me an old peltier he had used to overclock a processor years ago. When hooked up to a voltmeter I can see the voltage go up (just a tad) when I blow hot air on either side.
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05-31-2007, 07:54 PM
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#14
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,516
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silveredwings
Where did you find those? Do you know the specs (volts and current at what temp differential, max temp, etc.)?
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Ehay. Iirc I asked the seller about the max temp/etc.. and he sent me some info that seemed favorable, but I think I lost the link. The normal versions go up to 180C so I would imagine 250-300C is what the HT versions go to. Pm'ing right now to double check.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaTwo
I think if i could get that type of FE i would have no problem driving a dildo shaped car.
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05-31-2007, 08:26 PM
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#15
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 1,546
Country: United States
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well all i know is a header is in excess of 1000*F the cat is just about that. so dont let these melt to it...
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05-31-2007, 08:48 PM
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#16
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Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 34
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VetteOwner
well all i know is a header is in excess of 1000*F the cat is just about that. so dont let these melt to it...
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Don't stick them on the header or cat then. You should be able to design an intermediary heatsink or use a material with a low thermal conductivity between the exhaust and the "TEC." I think that it would be favorable to drill holes in the midpipe and weld channel iron, centered on the holes. Channel iron would create a duct parallel to the exhaust pipe as well as a flat mating surface. If you needed more heat, you could drill larger holes or wrap your exhaust at the header(s). If you needed less heat, you could drill fewer and smaller holes.
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05-31-2007, 09:06 PM
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#17
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,516
Country: United States
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Yep, max temp on them is only ~400F, so they need to be post CAT, maybe... No info on power generation, someone would need to buy one and fry it or something.
__________________
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by FormulaTwo
I think if i could get that type of FE i would have no problem driving a dildo shaped car.
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