Quote:
Originally Posted by DRW
I use the same tune for all of my driving. The high throttle, high load section of the fuel and timing maps are set up for max power. It's very rich (about 10:1 A/F ratio) and timing is low (9 to 18 degrees at high rpm)
Light load, light throttle is tuned for max FE. It's very lean (16.5 to 18.0:1) and timing is high (32-37 degrees around 2k rpm).
The areas between max power and max FE are blended together so the fuel and timing values transition gradually. The car seems to run smoother and more predictably when the transitions are smooth, it doesn't like on/off steps.
Edit: The A/F ratio I use is very rich because the engine is turbocharged. Believe it or not, I've leaned out the WOT settings slightly. Factory A/F ratio at WOT was 9.3!
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Yeah this is the one I was speaking about in my thread. Your edit makes a big difference. High compression or force inducted motors will make more power with a richer mixture than a normal motor. Another thing is that I often assume that we are speaking about Honda motors because I've only visited Honda-specific forums for the last 6 years (before that it was a Toyota forum).
9.3 is stupid rich. All manufacturers including Honda default to a ridiculously rich mixture under extreme conditions. This is to protect them from getting murdered by warranty engine replacements.
What I like about this post is that you clarify that you don't need a separate economy map and a separate power map. One tune does it all. This was a huge revelation for me when I first started learning about standalones.
You can't oversimplify and say "I run lean" or "I run rich". All calibrations should have lean and rich portions of the map.