New HHO Gen...need help wiring...

[Nightwish]

I'm about to build my first HHO gen...

Based on what i saw, I built the inside with 4 SS plates all connected with SS screws. But now someone said that it will short out and never work.

How is the INSIDE plates put together and wired? I have fuses and a switch and a check valve , but am worried about the plates. Should they have rubber spacers?

here it is:





The canister...PVC tubing with caps...

Thanks

[quadancer@bellsouth.net]

Perhaps this will clear things up:
http://www.smacksboosters.110mb.com/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxPQd...x=0&playnext=1
Do some more research before you wire up this dangerous device; it is apparent that you need to learn the physics and safety rules available at this time.

[Nightwish]

OK...

Here's what one skeptic said...I do believe he is trying to help:

Nightwish, would you like for me to explain to you the problem with your device before you blow too many fuses?

Your metal plates are all connected electrically. The current will flow through the plates, not through the water. The plates have no resistance. Your current is going to be very high. Basically, you are installing a short to ground. Better hope your fuses blow before you burn up your electrical system.

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You only need 2 plates, and they cannot be connected together by anything conductive. One wire hooked to each plate. You can use rubber grommets inserted into the holes, with a bolt run through them, so long as the bolt isn't contacting both plates.

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The plates won't do you any good the way you have them connected. Heck, all you've built is a big stainless steel wire. If you are trying to increase your surface area, you need to hook every other plate up in parallel. Every other plate needs to be positive, and every other plate needs to be negative, and the negative plates need to be isolated electrically from the positive plates.

But you go with your way. I just want to be there when you explain the electrical fire to your insurance adjuster.

[GasSavers_RoadWarrior]

The current path is through ionic exchange with the electrolyte, the positive and negative plates must be insulated from each other for this to happen.

[Nightwish]

Good stuff...SMACK knows his stuff !!!!!!

I'm gonna study, re-work the unit and try it tomoorow....

[quadancer@bellsouth.net]

I have another question as I'm building a Smack unit for our 4banger. Why not rubber grommet the holes on one hole and turn each plate upside down to it's neighbor - giving a pass-through for one plate and connecting the next, using SS bolts instead of nylon. So you would have say, the end plate "hot", pass thru the next, and "hot" at the next and so forth. Each alternate plate would be opposing polarity. I think there were some units done like this non-floating arrangement, but I'm seeing a difference in the voltage drop (and corresponding amperage) since it's basically just two large pos and neg areas next to each other. Smack's loses voltage across the water voids and through the plate series.
I want to understand how this hot arrangement could work if it's been done. Surely it would produce more gas, or is the, what, 3v limit true? If so, then why not transform down to 6v of feed?

[ZugyNA]

The Smack himself...recommends following his design exactly. That's the only way I'd do it to get the expected performance. His design... like the water4gas.. is the result of a lot of testing and tweaking.

[quadancer@bellsouth.net]

I'm also a bit of and inventor myself. Smack said his unit was middle-of-the-road for ease of build, cost, etc. He went on to explain some of the reasons why - one of which was the plates touching, so he used 2mm spacers when 1mm would work much better. I found a way around that and will be using 1mm in mine.
You have to keep in mind that Smack set up for success and gave his formula and expects most folks to screw it up if they tweak it. But all this stuff is pretty experimental right now and with some diligent reading you can get sort of a feel for what works and what doesn't, outside of mathmatical interpretations. I also had an idea for an easier container that may wind up with more than a 3" wide plate array. Eleven bucks at Lowe's gets you a 6x4" plastic Electrical tag box, complete with lid and gasket, plus two mounting tabs. My electrician says they're static resistant too, if that's of any use.

[ZugyNA]

From what I know now...I'd only use 316 ss or better...if my real world experience is any indication...the 304 switch plates are not going to last too long.

http://oupower.com/index.php?dir=_Ot...rojects/fixaze

You see a lot of before pics...but not too many AFTER?

I seen several people make the smackbooster and end up disappointed because they thought they knew better...variations are OK...but they need to be well thought out?

These electrolysers are fairly simple...except for the details.

Is that box ABS plastic?

Do you have a link?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...CAR&lpage=none

You'd probably need to find a way to maintain the fluid level?

[GasSavers_RoadWarrior]

Yeah, I'm gonna be "doing my own thing" somewhat, because I reckon normal grades of stainless steel are a bit of a compromise. It would appear that high proportions of nickel to low proportions of iron in an alloy needs less over-potential for H2 generation, what this means is that you might be able to use 12-20 cells across battery voltage instead of 6-7. So I'm looking at pulling apart microwaves, dead disk drives, vcrs, etc for scraps of mu-metal, monel, permalloy etc... Or I might just nickel plate some sheet steel and heat it red hot for a while and maybe enough iron would bleed into the nickel surface to get the right effect...

If you get a minimum voltage setup, that doesn't make much heat, it should then be possible to scavenge coolant heat into the process without boiling your electrolyte dry...

HOWEVER... if you're learning basic electrics, physics and chemistry as you go along, you should stick rigidly to a design like the smackbooster, let it teach you stuff, and figure out a better way next time.