Lowering your car in order to increase fuel economy

[n0rt0npr0]

I know this to be true! However, I have been trying for a month to find a shop that will specifically align the vehicle the way you want them to. On my vehicle I am allowed 4° +/- then the tires ride slightly on edge of course increasing rolling resistance. Wish me luck! So far the aim of the shop is "we will align it within that tolerance take it or leave it"

[rh77]

Originally Posted by n0rt0npr0

I know this to be true! However, I have been trying for a month to find a shop that will specifically align the vehicle the way you want them to. On my vehicle I am allowed 4° +/- then the tires ride slightly on edge of course increasing rolling resistance. Wish me luck! So far the aim of the shop is "we will align it within that tolerance take it or leave it"

Keep looking. I wanted an auto-cross spec alignment when I had my '99 Si. I got to know one of the mechanics at the Honda dealer, and he said he would do it. Basically rear toe was the biggie (camber wasn't adjustable, if I remember right) -- but it made it a little squirrelly on the highway - kinda twitchy in the rear but overall manageable. It really helped track the car better on the course. Downside -- big time tire wear. Probably the same if you change the camber. Also, Winter weather driving skills improved because they had to, if you know what I mean.

Maybe if you talk to a mechanic at a Chevy dealer he'll do it for you.

RH77

[SVOboy]

Downside -- big time tire wear. Probably the same if you change the camber.

Camber really has very little bearing on tire wear for most tires. As long as they aren't super low profile and have sidewall flex slight to moderate camber will not wear your tires out, it's all in the toe.

[n0rt0npr0]

Them dealers around here are exactly the ones who won't do it, but I haven't ventured past 15 miles yet into Detroits "little arabia". Them guys might just hook me up. I'll keep you posted.

Camber is adjustable. Caster is not. Caster is what a properly installed ball joint defines. It is "where" the tire is in relation to the a-arm(if ball joint is worn) and it also indicates how in-line the strut is with the ball joint. Camber is the inward/outward tilt (the one you adjust for auto-x) and toe is how parrallel pointed your tires are. IMO they need to be parallel unless you always drive off road. Driving on wet or icy/snowy roads with toe-in or toe-out is outright dangerous.

Drifters get large negative camber/caster(caster due to extreme lowering)
Conservative drivers for FE I would guestimate for negative camber also(or maybe just go to the outside of your normal specs like I want = 4° negative)
meh

[rh77]

Originally Posted by n0rt0npr0

Driving on wet or icy/snowy roads with toe-in or toe-out is outright dangerous.

How about rear tow-out on summer tires in snow? What? I was young and didn't know any better. BUT, I made it to work on a day they closed it due to adverse weather. It would've been nice to have gotten a call -- anyways, made it through the Winter ice/snow with no collisions. Granted, it wasn't a Michigan Winter, but it was a challenge. The next Winter -- all-wheel drive on Winter tires (check the avatar).

By the way, how do you get that cool little degree symbol?

Do you have a locally-owned tire shop that does alignments? They might be looser on doing a further range of adjustments. I'm guessing that near-Detroit GM dealers will probably be close to corporate on not bending the rules.

RH77

[n0rt0npr0]

hold down ALT then press 0176, release alt and °should pop up

I learned about it from character map inside windows (it shows all the equivalent keystrokes)

lol about your toe-out learning curve least you had all-wheel

Yes on many local owned tire/alignment shops...and they are the reason I pointed my nose toward dealers. Them guys are cheaper than the dealers but will not align it like I want. Then I called local dealers and like I said, I'll call some in "little arabia" and see what happens. I can get $15 barely used tires in little arabia (compared to $25 outside in the burbs) They just seem more willing to make the customer happy.

[GasSavers_DaX]

Originally Posted by n0rt0npr0

hold down ALT then press 0176, release alt and °should pop up

I learned about it from character map inside windows (it shows all the equivalent keystrokes)

°°°°°°°°°°°°....*amused*

[mtbiker278]

So I'm looking into lowering my car. So far all I'm seeing is lowering srpings, but I have a feeling that coilovers are soon on the way. Anywho, not knowing much about suspension other than what's on mt.bikes I was wondering how my ride would be affected by dropped springs. Obviously the ride would be stiffer, but do I need to replace the shocks to a stiffer damper to compensate for the increased spring rate so the whole car doesn't bounch. Also, would coilovers be better in general because it'll reduce weight? Does anyone think that the suspension components from the SI would be interchangeable (A-arms, spindles, swaybar, etc.)

[SVOboy]

What kind of drop are you looking for? (I hate new cars)

[mtbiker278]

I'm not looking for much, maybe 1-1.5 inches (2" max). The roads around here are so messed up I wouldn't trust dropping it anymore than that. I saw a pothole the other day that would swallow my front end.