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10-17-2008, 10:00 AM
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#191
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 46
Country: United States
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Hho Amp Control
I do agree with you on the way your setting it up.
However, I am going to dump a lot more lye in mine.
That way it will get to the 20 AMPS in like 1 minute. instead of having to wait 1 hour. or 30 minutes. That way it will rach 20 AMPS and stay at 20 AMPS
take a 12v 30AMP or 12v 15AMp or whatever battery charger. Hook it up, dump a bunch of solution into it. YOu will see it will stay right below the top Amperage you set it for.
So, I dont wanna have a battery charger hooked up the whole time. lol.
What can I do to the line to make it so It will act exactly like this? What can i put in the middle of the wire or hook it up too?
I know Many of you use a PWM, however, you have to keep adjusting it. And I dont wanna go that route. So wht is another way I can do this with no PWM
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10-17-2008, 12:47 PM
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#192
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Registered Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 280
Country: United States
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Bill, I really think the only way you're going to achieve what you want is with a self referencing PWM like dk said. That's the only way you can get the full 20amps all the time and compensate for increased heat (and load) in the electrolyte.
Or if you want to try and you know how the increased amperage requirements line up with temp of the solution... You could throw an old car water temps sensor in your cell and based on it's output have it adjust the power to the device.
That is, instead of turning this 'knob' and trimming a pot to adjust for increased temperature, if you use the right thermosistor with the right ramp up, you can hook this inline directly with your knob and at cold it will have some high ohms and as it warms it decreases the ohms just as you do with your knob.
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10-17-2008, 08:39 PM
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#193
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 46
Country: United States
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Build One
Do you think you can build me one? If so that would be aweosme!
So basicly I would tell it to run at 15 AMPS
or 20 AMPS
And then it would go back down to 20 AMPS as soon as the amps jump up.
Basicly what your doing is building a charger, It makes more energy then it uses I found out. lol.
Thanks, Can't wait to hear if you can do this. I'm just so lost. Arr
And it is driving me nuts, All hooked up and I can't even use the darn thing.
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10-17-2008, 10:46 PM
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#194
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 46
Country: United States
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Pwm Auto Control
Ok, What about a PWM that will autmaticly control it, so I can set it at 20 AMPS, and it will stay at 20 AMPS, and not overheat.
Thanks. Anyone?
THeir must be some device where you can control the amps and temperature. Or something like that.
Help as i wanna resolve this Asap now. SO I can post my gains.
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10-18-2008, 05:17 AM
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#195
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Site Team / Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,742
Country: United States
Location: Northern Virginia
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You can always buy a thermal circuit breaker and attach it to the side of the cell. If the cell gets too hot it will shut off until the temperature falls to an acceptable range.
-Jay
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10-18-2008, 07:10 AM
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#196
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 46
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay2TheRescue
You can always buy a thermal circuit breaker and attach it to the side of the cell. If the cell gets too hot it will shut off until the temperature falls to an acceptable range.
-Jay
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I considered that, however, the breaker will stay turned off too long and no more gas will be made. Thanks though
Anyone else got any other ideas?
If their is a PWM that can auto adjust that would be awesome.
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10-18-2008, 08:40 AM
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#197
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Site Team / Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,742
Country: United States
Location: Northern Virginia
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I don't know if trying to regulate it by any other means than the concentration of electrolyte in the solution woud be self defeating. A breaker or thermal regulator will shut off the cell from time to time (not desired operation). Any type of thermally activated voltage regulator (reducing voltage as cell heats up) would not be a good idea either. My theory is that as you reduce the voltage available to the cell, its amperage requirements will increase, defeating the purpose of reducing the voltage. Again we're back at keeping an eye on the electrolyte concentration, and put a fuse or breaker in to shut it down in the rare instance that it draws too much.
-Jay
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10-18-2008, 01:33 PM
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#198
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 46
Country: United States
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Ccpwm
is a CCPWM what I want?
where I set it at 20 AMPS and it wont go past 20 AMPS? Thanks WIll
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10-18-2008, 06:15 PM
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#199
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 46
Country: United States
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Ccpwm
Curent Controled PWM is what you want
you can set it and forget it.
So, anyone know any cheap ones?
They are very hard to find, found one guy who is willing to make one for me for $200.
I would like to spend under $100 or at least under $200
Thanks,
Will
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10-20-2008, 10:53 AM
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#200
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 10
Country: United States
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Deep cycle solar recharge
I don't hink everyone is looking at this correctly.
The only way to get true gas savings is to completely remove the system from your cars electrical system and run it from a marine deep cycle battery recharged by a solar panel. This way you are not using your cars alternator to produce the hydrogen. This type of battery will run a hydrogen generator for a long time on just 20 amps and when the car is not in use the solar panel will recharge the battery. This will put to rest all the skeptics who say you can not produce enough hydrogen for the amount of energy you get out of it.
Once the initial cost of the battery and solar panel are payed for by the savings in gasoline you will be getting free energy to produce your hydrogen.
Aquatron
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