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Originally Posted by SVOboy
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By the way, I installed the OEM version that I ordered from my dealer. I've been accused of overpaying
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I hope this wasn't me, I think it was a good deal actually, y0!
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Hmmm, let me think back, I can't remember -- wait...
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Originally Posted by SVOboy
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Hmm, 40 bucks = a lot. I think I might go for a dipstick one. There's one on ebay now for 10 shipped. :P
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;-)
Just bustin' your chops. I probably could've gotten one online cheaper, but I couldn't find one for my year specifically (even though I'm sure the B18B1 block is the same over the years). I went to the dealer, got the OEM version and the service guy was nice enough to print-out the mechanic's install diagrams with all of the bolt sizes and torque specs.
To answer all the questions:
*It was $42 + Tax
*The heater element goes into the coolant drain (frost) plug of the engine block (which is a buggah to get off, by the way).
*It doesn't circulate the coolant, but it heats the coolant in the jacket and the block itself. Basically, I imagine the heated coolant to flow immediately at startup and homogenize to get everything up to temp rapidly.
*The heating element is 110-Volts AC. Basically, the element is like a stovetop coil on the end, and has a heavy-duty rubber boot where the wiring harness plugs into. The harness then routes to the air dam where it can be plugged into a wall-socket via extension cord.
*All of the zip-ties, harness tubing, even a rubber pad for the harness to rest on a coolant return line was included. Also, it has a little cap to cover the plug so it doesn't get corroded. Surprisingly, it's hardly noticeable.
*I'm also taking comfort in the fact that warm fluids are available on cold-starts to reduce friction in the first 5 minutes of operation (since I don't warm-up, that would include the auto-trans and oil delivery system).
RH77
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