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Old 05-14-2006, 10:47 PM   #21
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Re: I've got a lot of rolling

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Originally Posted by zpiloto
I've got a lot of rolling terrain so I'll see how it does. Our temps are alot higher down here also which should help with the IAT. I think I remember Compaq888 that you were have shifting problem until you reset the TCU, was it doing the downshifting before and after the reset?
It wasn't doing the downshifting after I reset the ecu. Instead of downshifting it gains speed as it climbs, 2-3mph. Of course on huge hills it will downshift, that is no brainer.
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Old 05-15-2006, 05:52 AM   #22
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Quote:Perhaps the key is

[quote]Perhaps the key is "heat the fuel, cool the air" combo ???

I'm gonna try that..


I tried that with the dryer hose. I ran it to the front of the airdam so that it would be in the airstream so there would by a min supercharger effect at speed. Did A-B-A run at speeds of 30 and 50 over 2.8 miles with no effect on FE.
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Old 05-15-2006, 11:45 AM   #23
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Re: Quote:Perhaps the key is

[quote=zpiloto]
Quote:
Perhaps the key is "heat the fuel, cool the air" combo ???

I'm gonna try that..


I tried that with the dryer hose. I ran it to the front of the airdam so that it would be in the airstream so there would by a min supercharger effect at speed. Did A-B-A run at speeds of 30 and 50 over 2.8 miles with no effect on FE.

I see... I heard of a guy building sort of an "electric supercharger" which is built from some aluminium flexi piping, a high rpm computer fan and a switch to regulate the fan on and off... I do not know if he achieved anything at all but it sounds a lot like your experiment with the addition of a forced flow... I am wondering of ways to suck some aircon cooled air into the air filter... Any ideas ??
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Old 05-15-2006, 06:01 PM   #24
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I guess you could just "T"

I guess you could just "T" into a duct, but I don't think you would see any gain in FE. Running the AC is a FE killer. It can be as much as 3-5 MPG or more depending on the car.

I saw this on another site and if I was capable of doing it I would like to got to a junkyard and find the smallest turbocharger I could and install it. If it was small enough it would kick in about 2000 RPM and you could run about 4 pound of boost. I think you would get a good increase in FE if you didn't get carry away with the extra power. All for under $500 if you could do it yourself.
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Old 05-16-2006, 10:31 AM   #25
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But


Well yes but you would need to mod your intake, reduce your comprression ratio and change the valve guides from (mostly)rubber or teflon to ceramic or chrome / vanadium... Otherwise you're likely to finish that engine in a short time. And to reduce the compression you' ll need to change the pistons and rings.
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Old 05-21-2006, 10:32 AM   #26
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I messed with a WAI mod yesterday on my 06 Civic EX Sedan, 5MT, w/Navi. The car is well ran in with around 11k miles on it to date. Its driven to work some days, putters around town and has been driven from the Tulsa metro area to PHX, Az. Its seen its share of redline shifts, Wheels spun and ABS action. After all it is a Civic. Its worse tank was 29 mpg, its best has been 47 mpg 25c/75h.

I have used WAI to improve FE in older big block and small block v8's in years past and some I6 engines. Always seemed to be good for about a 2 mpg increase across the board. These being carb motors it always took a major retune to see these results. Including, timeing change, cooler thermostat, idle air adjustments and higher octain fuel.

So armed with knowledge from the past and knowing there wont be any retuning for this run of test I go down to the local O,rilleys and purchase WAI alum hose commonly used on our old trusty v8's and I6's from years past. Cost $3.00 and some change.

This is a very complex install. Takes all of 30 secs. I opened the hood, yanked off the OEM rubber intake duct. Cramed it down and away from the filter box. Yanked on the alum. flex duct to increase its length. Pushed one end of the hose into the opening in the filter box, fourmed the hose around and set it next to the massive CAT right off the head and lodged in next to what acts like a exhaust manifold. Done! Ok it took a 1 min. sorry. The R18a motor in the new Civics dont have a exhaust manifold so to speak. Its all cast into the head. So they are very short passages if you will straight to a CAT.

My first run was with the WAI installed. Air temp was 95f. (was hot here in Okiehoma yesterday) Car warmed up in a flash. I set out one of my test loops around here. This is a 20 mile run thru my small town out to a hwy and back. Intake air temp with the WAI was 141F any time the car was moving up to 150f if the engine was off or at idle. I ran the loop came back, pulled the WAI slapped the OEM hose back on and did it again. OEM unit air temp was 101f with car moving and didnr flucuate much one way or the other. Then came back after that loop run and pulled the OEM duct off again and ran the loop with the filter box open to under the hood air temps. Max. temp in this mode was 121F on the hwy and it did flucuate alot.

I worked on this from the afternoon hours to early in the morning. I logged around 120 miles doing these test. As for night temp's. Just subtract 20f off the day time temps.

From all these runs and configs on the intake. I saw a soild 1 mpg increase in FE with the WAI. I had no pinging, water temps stayed the same. I didnt ever wrap the tach up. But I felt no loss in power in the range of 650 rpm to 3k rpm. I used my ScanGauge to look at the temps, mpg, timing and such.

Im going to leave the WAI on for awhile and see what it does. Im going to keep a very close eye on it. My guts telling me this may be a winter only mod and that I may end up running the inlet open to the air under the hood for summer. And then run the OEM CAI when I want to play. I do like to tackle the twistys from time to time. Theres always somebody that needs to be imbaressed by a little stock Civic from time to time.

It was a intresting test and there is something there to be had. Is it worth it and will the ECU with time adjust its self better for the mod. Only time will tell.

Theres alot going on in a r18a engine. Its not fully understood yet. The semi atkins low rpm head function. The normal function and then vtec. I dont know as of yet if when the engine is in low rpm idle to 3k rpm if the amount of fuel injected is less than a normal cycle or is it all in valve/cam timings that allow for the so called 1.5L compression stroke to happen. Is it chargeing the cyclinder like a 1.8L and then pumping some of the charge back into the intake manifold? Is there a lean burn component in this action? Theres alot to learn here.

Im not the best hypermiler. I have the skillz but tend to get lazy sometimes. That and I enjoy many driving styles. I do use low rpm shifting, steady foot, DWL, FAS, coast, light timing, engine off at light, will draft and surf also ride ridge in rain or follow trails.

My lmpg is at 39.6 with my high tank at 47 mpg, low at 29 mpg. OOO and the wife has never driven the car.

Hope this mess was a good read and that there maybe some useful info here.

psy

PS,,, we really need more 8th gen Civics in the game. I havent found a sole yet working with a non-hybrid Civic yet.

Im uploading a video of the last run I made at about 1am this morning. It nothing but 29 miles of the ScanGauge with the WAI installed. Its over 200 meg @ 640x480. Will post a link here when its done.
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Old 05-21-2006, 11:04 AM   #27
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Wow, very good post, I suggest when you get the video up you create your own experiment post detailing this, to make it more accessible, very thorough. I can't wait to get my superMID hooked up so I can do this testing myself. Grr , I have to wait a whole damn week.

Anyway, I'm glad it worked with the newer stuff, sometimes it seems not to.

On the topic of the r18, does it use vtec-e or is there something different? I should read up on it at TOVA
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Old 05-21-2006, 12:29 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
Wow, very good post, I suggest when you get the video up you create your own experiment post detailing this, to make it more accessible, very thorough. I can't wait to get my superMID hooked up so I can do this testing myself. Grr , I have to wait a whole damn week.

Anyway, I'm glad it worked with the newer stuff, sometimes it seems not to.

On the topic of the r18, does it use vtec-e or is there something different? I should read up on it at TOVA
I cant do a detail on the SG vid. My mind just dosent work that way. For hypermilers it will be very clear as to whats going on in the vid. Wayne, Bob, Cindy, Tara, Phil, Brick and countless others will know when gears are being ran, FAS, DWL, and other things are happening. I hope to have a better cam sooner with audio and beable to show and talk about what is going on.

Heres the link to sg http://www.psyshack.com/hm11.avi
Heres a link to another drive http://www.psyshack.com/okiefas.wmv
Heres a 0-60 run in the Civic. It will now do the run alot faster and 60 mph in 2nd gear is nothing. This is a a bad lauch and I didnt wring it out http://www.psyshack.com/MVI_4979.AVI
Heres a fish tank vid to calm you down before yeah flame me. http://www.psyshack.com/29gthemovie.avi

psy

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Old 05-21-2006, 12:34 PM   #29
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As for detail I just meant you should repost this with links in your own thread in the experiment section, because it'll make it more searchable. Good evidence is always welcomed there,
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Old 05-21-2006, 01:20 PM   #30
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SVO

Go here. http://world.honda.com/CIVIC/1.8li-vtec/

It explains some of the mech. stuff,,, but nothing of injectors and ecu. Heck Hondadata it seems wants nothing to do with it at this point. theres alot going on here.
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