gallons per hour / RPM - no load

[JanGeo]

Yeah it was my xB 1.5 liter VVTi (Variable Valve Timing intake) and it would not be a direct function of the engine size but rather the pumping losses at idle and the friction in the engine - don't forget that I have Synlube in there and it reduces friction better at low rpm than any oil. Should be interesting when I get and install the Iridium plugs but I may first add some acetone to the gas - been running without it for a few tanks now.

[Mighty Mira]

Originally Posted by JanGeo

Yeah it was my xB 1.5 liter VVTi (Variable Valve Timing intake) and it would not be a direct function of the engine size but rather the pumping losses at idle and the friction in the engine - don't forget that I have Synlube in there and it reduces friction better at low rpm than any oil. Should be interesting when I get and install the Iridium plugs but I may first add some acetone to the gas - been running without it for a few tanks now.

I suspect that for my purposes, it will be a close enough rule of thumb. For example, this guy has a 5.7l engine that idles at 0.8gph (warmed up). If it is directly proportional, your engine should have a ((1.5/5.7) * 0.8) =0.21gph idle rate or 0.21 * 3.78 = 0.794lph. I remember you get about 0.5, sometimes 0.6lph as measured on another thread, which would be maybe 0.54lph on average. If the synlube stuff works as advertised, your car might idle at 0.6lph with regular oil. So that's only about 20% out, which is close enough for my purposes. Or actually, you said somewhere else that it should idle even better than an in gear rpm. So the fit might be closer. (Also, why didn't you do the test with lph instead of gph?)

Also, can you tell me a bit about synlube, how you heard about it, and why you think the claims are genuine? I've had a look at the synlube site. At first glance, it seems a bit scammy. However, it is a fact that any business with a business model that relies on consumers making steady payments (e.g. motor oil companies, pharmaceuticals, etc) will be able to pay vastly more for advertising and in doing so achieve market dominance. So I would not be surprised at the lack of slickness on the Synlube website given that what they are selling is a "cure" as opposed to a "treatment". I did a cursory search and note that while you mention it, you don't go into particular detail.

[VetteOwner]

what i wanna know is how a heater blower fan changes the rpm...the heat is supplied by the hot coolant. its liek a small radiator in your dashboard. the blower fan just blows air thru the "radiator" thus creating hot air being blasted at you...the amp difference betwee nt eh settings is prolly an amp at most. idle shouldnt be affected by it. unless that car uses an electric heater for some ungodly reason...then i can see rpm going up....

[JanGeo]

OK Next test will be in L/h
The Synlube graph burried in their site on how it works shows a RPM vs friction of oil vs synlube here: http://www.synlube.com/howsyn.htm about 1/3 from the bottom. Man there is a lot of information in that site when you start at the Contents page. http://www.synlube.com/toc.htm

I heard about Synlube on the ScionLife.com site where another guy had been using it for years so I checked it out fortunately soon enough to change over to it after engine break in was complete so that I didn't make any mistakes like getting the free oil changes offered by Scion which would and put a lower grade oil in the engine after the initial factory oil which is a better high grade synthetic. Using a lower grade oil would result in more sludge in the Synlube special filter from it breaking down during the first 3 years 36,000 miles of Synlube use by the residual oil left in the engine after the oil change to Synlube. I have talked extensively about Synlube in the ScionLife chat site over and over again and boy not too many people there believe me either.

As far as the heater goes Scion/Toyota uses the onboard computer to monitor all sorts of things including the heater blower motor to run the A/C Compressor when using the A/C or defrosters and apparently the engine idle when calling for heat and it may also be linked to the alternator to regulate the charge voltage and when the heater is turned up full it does load the battery down to about 13.2 volts from the normal 14.0 volts for a few seconds until the engine RPM comes up and the alternator charges a bit more to bring it back up. I watched the voltage vary on the ScanGauge. It even adds more throttle when driving down hill engine braking when the A/C is running which relly bugs me because that is when I want the injectors shut off although I don't know if there is fuel being injected or the throttle is being bypassed giving the feeling of less engine braking.
Anyone ever open the throttle when EOC in gear to see of more throttle increases or decreases engine braking?
I guess the only way to tell for sure if the alternator is triggering more engine RPM is to do the old Line powered battery charger test again while the engine it running and see what the charger puts out when I turn up the heater fan and see if the external supplied power to the battery overrides the engine RPM increase. I did a simular test with the lights and radio to see how much amps they draw - seems the minimum current was several amps.

[brucepick]

Originally Posted by VetteOwner

what i wanna know is how a heater blower fan changes the rpm......the amp difference betwee nt eh settings is prolly an amp at most. idle shouldnt be affected by it. unless that car uses an electric heater for some ungodly reason...then i can see rpm going up....

I think the rpm change is just the engine attempting to provide enough power to run the alt at the new amps output level. Also possibly the idle air control (has different names on different cars) could be dirty/sticking.

Oh wait - the 'vette has a carb maybe? All bets are off. The poor thing is probably just doing it's best to keep the engine running smoothly.

As I recall, cars in that era had a whole bunch of little vacuum switches and vacuum motors and whatnot, all aimed at controlling mixture and rpm as needed in various situations. Could be one of those is sticking or dirty or failed.

[JanGeo]

Hey Bruce - Vetteowner was asking about my Scion xB and I am not sure if it was a heat or voltage related RPM increase - if it was voltage then it was a slightly delayed response. In either case the engine burns such a little amount of fuel at idle that the engine actually cools off when running the heater on a cold day.

[Mighty Mira]

Originally Posted by JanGeo

I heard about Synlube on the ScionLife.com site where another guy had been using it for years so I checked it out fortunately soon enough to change over to it after engine break in was complete so that I didn't make any mistakes like getting the free oil changes offered by Scion which would and put a lower grade oil in the engine after the initial factory oil which is a better high grade synthetic. Using a lower grade oil would result in more sludge in the Synlube special filter from it breaking down during the first 3 years 36,000 miles of Synlube use by the residual oil left in the engine after the oil change to Synlube. I have talked extensively about Synlube in the ScionLife chat site over and over again and boy not too many people there believe me either.

I read quite a bit of their site yesterday, and a lot of it does sound plausible. A lot (probably most) large industries are built upon a net transfer of wealth from a mass of, on average, not very smart people, to those companies. The medium is TV and other media, the method is advertising. Take something relatively worthless, even better if it is a useless byproduct, and add a big markup. If people don't need to use it often enough, make it break down quicker. (e.g. toothbrushes and the blue wear strip). Through trademarks and copyright you effectively have a monopoly.

WRT Synlube, he has a point re: dirt - it's not dirt in the oil, it's the oil breaking down due to heat. So if you can use a heat tolerant lubricant, you wouldn't have to change lubricants nearly as often.

I think I might give it a try. I don't have a lot to lose.

[JanGeo]

Well if you try it - you have to talk to him before he will sell you anything for the first time so that you get the correct product for your application. Also mention my name as he does compensate for sales referrals for everyone and should you recommend it to someone then you get some referral credit too. I have one other xB owner that had hers done by Miro out in Cali and he applied the credit towards my next oil filter.

[VetteOwner]

Originally Posted by brucepick

I think the rpm change is just the engine attempting to provide enough power to run the alt at the new amps output level. Also possibly the idle air control (has different names on different cars) could be dirty/sticking.

Oh wait - the 'vette has a carb maybe? All bets are off. The poor thing is probably just doing it's best to keep the engine running smoothly.

As I recall, cars in that era had a whole bunch of little vacuum switches and vacuum motors and whatnot, all aimed at controlling mixture and rpm as needed in various situations. Could be one of those is sticking or dirty or failed.

yea i was referign to his car.

the chevette just has 2 cable operated flaps that direct heatflow. the chevette and liek evry other domestic car has 3-4 blower speeds. theres just a few wire resistors that controls how much amperage gets to the motor. meaning on one speed it may take .2 amps next up might need .4 next maybe .8 high maybe aroudn 1 amp. 1 amp diff from off to full will not cause a noticeabel drop in rpm. heck with my chevette idlign at 200 rpm with headlights on when i hit the brakes the headlights dim slightly. blower fan does nothing. thats why i think its crazy the engine should have to jump up 700 rpm just to blow air slightly faster...(lol over engineering at its best, heck my chevettes gets hot enough to burn leg hair!) its not liek the temperature changes at different speeds...

my truck (1995 s-10)just has vacum operated flaps.

[Mighty Mira]

Originally Posted by JanGeo

Well if you try it - you have to talk to him before he will sell you anything for the first time so that you get the correct product for your application. Also mention my name as he does compensate for sales referrals for everyone and should you recommend it to someone then you get some referral credit too. I have one other xB owner that had hers done by Miro out in Cali and he applied the credit towards my next oil filter.

Did that before you asked as a courtesy.