an idea for A/C

[91CavGT]

I don't know how effective this will be, but I've got an idea. Remove the A/C compressor, condensor, dryer, and all the lines associated with these components. Connect hoses to the evaporator in the dash and run them to the back of the car. Connect a typical oil/transmission cooler to these lines. On one of the lines, run a small 12 volt pump like a Shurflow RV pump. These pull from 4-7 amps of current typically. Fill the hoses up with water or some kind of coolant that has a lower freezing point than water. Put the oil/transmission cooler in an ice chest (err, a cooler) that is filled with a salt water and ice combination. In theroy, this would give you some cooling till the water in the ice chest got above about 40 degrees.


Benefits;

1. A/C compressors often take 5 hp or more to operate whereas this would put a very small load on the alternator. I imagine a drop of 0.5 - 1 hp while this system would be running.
2. The air going over the radiator would be cooler therefore making a larger grill block possible during warm months.


Disadvantages

1. weight. Primarily the weight of the ice. Depending on the size of the cooler, 100 pounds additional weight could be seen. Take away 25 pounds or so for the weight of the A/C compressor, condensor, and the lines and you're looking at 75 pounds.
2. you'd need a very large and readily supply of ice.
3. it won't be as effective as a normal A/C system.



I'm thinking about trying this on my Cavalier. I've already got all the parts laying around, and there is a massive ice machine where I work so I can completley fill a large cooler everyday with ice. The A/C system has already been removed on this car due to the oil cooler adaptor interfeering with the A/C compressor. So, I'm trying to think of a way to get A/C back on this car without putting an A/C compressor back on it.

What do you guys think?

[GasSavers_Erik]

I have considered something like this as well since my Civic didn't even come with factory AC. I saw a little 12v cigarette lighter plug powered plastic ice chest/radiator/fan apparatus in Wal-mart last fall that you filled with ice and the little fan blew the cold air directly on to you- the driver. But it was in the clearance isle so that might be a good indication as to how well it worked in real life.

I think it comes down to BTU's. We'd have to calculate how many BTU's enter a car through the glass/body on a hot sunny day per hour and compare that to the amount of BTU's it would take to melt the ice and bring it up to 40 degrees F.

I think that a better way to do it would be to put an ice vest in the freezer (a vest filled with those blue gel freezer packs) and then wear it over a thin T shirt. That ought to be good for an hour or so of hot weather. Maybe even an ice hat/helmet looking thing. Now that would get me some stares!

[VetteOwner]

pssst they already have those vests that just have water circulating around in em. nascar drivers and the liek wear em.

for AC since neither of my cars have it, is roll down all windows and then drive if not crank the blower on vent, i figure if people could do it before 1950's i can do it...

[91CavGT]

Originally Posted by VetteOwner

for AC since neither of my cars have it, is roll down all windows and then drive if not crank the blower on vent, i figure if people could do it before 1950's i can do it...

I agree completely with you on this one. I've only had 4 cars I believe in all of my 15 cars that have had working A/C. I can manage. However, my wife would like this car MUCH more if it was a bit cooler inside during the summer.

[kamesama980]

yea but what makes AC work is the phase change that occurs as the refrigerant is compressed/expands heats/cools the whole ice-chest thing was done in the days before the air conditioner and it didn't really work then either. just open the windows or get one of those vests

[91CavGT]

WARNING: BRAIN STORM/FART AHEAD..........................



That is true about the phase change. Hmm, water turns to vapor at 210 degrees at 14.7 absolute pressure. Ok, so if we put water under a vacuum this will lower the phase change point, but by how much? Hmm, a strong check valve on a hose running up to the intake. The entire system would have to be sealed tighter than Fort Knox to prevent liquid from being sucked into the motor. Under deceleration I see 22 inches of vacuum. Or I could get a vacuum pump connected to a vacuum switch so it would automatically turn on when vacuum got less than say 24 inches. The vacuum pump would be able to give more of a vacuum, but would it be enough?

I could put rubbing alcohol in the system, but if there was a leak, that could be very dangerous. Then again, there is gasoline in the car and if there was a leak in the fuel system it could be very dangerous! Now if I ran alcohol and a vacuum pump than this would lower the vaporization point of the alcohol, but I don't think it would be needed. Well, for safety I could have the entire system under the back of the car accept for the two lines going to the front and entering the evaporator. I've got some hoses designed for air conditioning systems. They could handle any pressure, no problem, but how corrosive to rubber hose is rubbing alcohol?


Ok, that's enough of my brain storming otherwise I'll be here all night!

[1cheap1]

Use dry ice to keep the ice longer. Just a small amount will do it i think. Dry ice, great stuff.

[liqfuel]

Originally Posted by 91CavGT

I don't know how effective this will be, but I've got an idea. Remove the A/C compressor, condensor, dryer, and all the lines associated with these components. Connect hoses to the evaporator in the dash and run them to the back of the car. Connect a typical oil/transmission cooler to these lines. On one of the lines, run a small 12 volt pump like a Shurflow RV pump. These pull from 4-7 amps of current typically. Fill the hoses up with water or some kind of coolant that has a lower freezing point than water. Put the oil/transmission cooler in an ice chest (err, a cooler) that is filled with a salt water and ice combination. In theroy, this would give you some cooling till the water in the ice chest got above about 40 degrees.


Benefits;

1. A/C compressors often take 5 hp or more to operate whereas this would put a very small load on the alternator. I imagine a drop of 0.5 - 1 hp while this system would be running.
2. The air going over the radiator would be cooler therefore making a larger grill block possible during warm months.


Disadvantages

1. weight. Primarily the weight of the ice. Depending on the size of the cooler, 100 pounds additional weight could be seen. Take away 25 pounds or so for the weight of the A/C compressor, condensor, and the lines and you're looking at 75 pounds.
2. you'd need a very large and readily supply of ice.
3. it won't be as effective as a normal A/C system.



I'm thinking about trying this on my Cavalier. I've already got all the parts laying around, and there is a massive ice machine where I work so I can completley fill a large cooler everyday with ice. The A/C system has already been removed on this car due to the oil cooler adaptor interfeering with the A/C compressor. So, I'm trying to think of a way to get A/C back on this car without putting an A/C compressor back on it.

What do you guys think?

I think you might need a two ton truck to carry ice to cool your car for a days drive on a hot day

[kamesama980]

^^agreed

just save yourself the time/money/weight in your car and use the g**d*** AC connected to the engine

[91CavGT]

Originally Posted by kamesama980

^^agreed

just save yourself the time/money/weight in your car and use the g**d*** AC connected to the engine

I can't. There is an oil cooler adaptor connected where the oil filter used to be, but this adaptor is larger at it's base than the stock oil filter. If I were to reinstall the A/C compressor, the lines will not seal properly due to clearance issues with the oil cooler adaptor. This motor ABSOLUTELY needs the oil cooler.



I would not be interested in cooling the car for hours at a time. Just 30 minutes at a time would be enough. I'm also not expecting nor am I wanting a 30-40 degree drop in temps. A simple 10 to 20 degree drop would be enough.