 |
|
02-04-2010, 01:49 PM
|
#1
|
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,624
|
No need to replace a headlight if it's just wobbly. Find a way to secure it and you've saved plenty of money. Well, unless headlights for your car are cheap, but the last time I bought a headlight from a junkyard it was over $120.
__________________
This sig may return, some day.
|
|
|
02-04-2010, 03:33 PM
|
#2
|
Site Team / Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 4,744
|
Usually its just the clip that holds the adjusting screw that breaks. These can be had at most auto parts stores relatively cheaply.
|
|
|
02-05-2010, 01:43 PM
|
#3
|
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 427
|
now gonna try a winter set up since theres no ice anywhere im gonna add my regular psi 34 front 38 back
i tried something new, covering up behind my headlights, over the radiator, with duct tape and also created weather stripping on top of the engine bay to keep air from coming in when driving on the top part of the metal that holds the radiator up ect, by pinching ductape enough to make it still stick on top yet shield the upper engine from outside heat to an extent.
I've been using this method to create weatherstripping for the old doors in my house (1890's) and it works alot better than regular weather stripping because its very customizeable and a hell of a lot cheaper(1$ for a roll at the dollar store as opposed to 10$ for a package of weatherstripping that won't work, or maybe just a little that will be enough for maybe 2 doors if that also), and works very well, I am using plastic tape on the doors though, not duct tape(leaves no residue)
|
|
|
02-05-2010, 09:09 PM
|
#4
|
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 427
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by spotaneagle
now gonna try a winter set up since theres no ice anywhere im gonna add my regular psi 34 front 38 back
i tried something new, covering up behind my headlights, over the radiator, with duct tape and also created weather stripping on top of the engine bay to keep air from coming in when driving on the top part of the metal that holds the radiator up ect, by pinching ductape enough to make it still stick on top yet shield the upper engine from outside heat to an extent.
I've been using this method to create weatherstripping for the old doors in my house (1890's) and it works alot better than regular weather stripping because its very customizeable and a hell of a lot cheaper(1$ for a roll at the dollar store as opposed to 10$ for a package of weatherstripping that won't work, or maybe just a little that will be enough for maybe 2 doors if that also), and works very well, I am using plastic tape on the doors though, not duct tape(leaves no residue)
|
on a test run or two the car warms up alot more quickly, it's running like it would on a warmer day even on the highway in 29 degree weather, steadier and smoother
|
|
|
02-05-2010, 05:06 PM
|
#5
|
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,264
|
No actual percentages claimed for any individual mod.
Lower grille completely blocked.
40% radiator block.
Warm air intake from top of radiator.
44 PSI sidewall max air in tires.
My best mileage on this route was 78 MPG last summer. Today there has been snow on the ground for a week. Temps just above freezing. I did make two stops so that cost me about 3 extra MPG with the extra warm up (the additional stop and the much colder warm up cycle compared to 92 degrees ambient).
All of these mods are trying to mitigate the effects of cold temperatures. On the actual route without considering the higher fuel cost of the warm up times and colder enrichment, I would make an educated guess that the actual on the road mileage difference was about 5 MPG compared to 92 degrees ambient. In both instances I never used any accessories. No heat at 34 ambient, and no AC at 92 ambient, not other accessories of any kind.
regards
Gary
__________________

|
|
|
02-06-2010, 01:36 PM
|
#6
|
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,624
|
I've split this thread, moving the controversial portion to a separate thread. This thread should be about BEEF's WAI and closely related posts.
__________________
This sig may return, some day.
|
|
|
02-06-2010, 01:48 PM
|
#7
|
Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,831
|
HC,
thanks
__________________
Be the change you wish to see in the world
--Mahatma Gandhi
|
|
|
02-06-2010, 02:48 PM
|
#8
|
Banned
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 427
|
snagged from ecomodder.com
Hot / warm air intake - permalink
Higher intake charge temperature has been found to increase the flame speed, the combustion reaction rate, the uniformity of the fuel-air mixture and reduce the heat transfer rate though the cylinder walls. This all adds up to the engine using more heat for physical movement and less being wasted.
The downside to this is that hotter air also tends to retard ignition timing and cause engine pinging. Different engines will react differently to warm air intakes and testing will need to be done to see if it will work for your specific vehicle. Saturns are known to react well to warm air intakes.
|
|
|
02-09-2010, 06:10 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 138
|
i think any gain to your individual mpg charts should be considered a success. if you did something and you see any decent gain thats repeatable youve done what you set out to do.
|
|
|
02-10-2010, 03:42 AM
|
#10
|
Registered Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 618
|
I highly agree.
BEEF - I know you mentioned little gain, but do you still have the HAI in place?
__________________
 John
'09 Saturn Aura 2.4L
'94 Chevy Camaro Z28 (5.7L 6sp)
'96 Chevy C1500 (5.0L 5sp)
'08 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Custom
'01 KTM Duke 2
|
|
|
 |
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Car Talk & Chit Chat |
|
|
|
|
|
» Fuelly iOS Apps |
|
» Fuelly Android Apps |
|
|