I also raced SCCA and alingment was critical. Of course race cars have camber plates, can be set up for no bumpsteer, can be squared up using string and 4 jackstands and set toe in/out...all right at the track as long as you have a level surface to work on. The no bumpsteer allows you to change camber without changing toe in/out. I always was in the car with full gear and 1/2 tank of fuel.
For street purposes things that change alingment are worn out parts/slop, potholes, ect. First you must start out with cold running tire pressures where you want them. The tires should be in good shape to get a good alignment. Then you need to lock the steering wheel in the "centered position". You should be able to aling it so that when you are thru the wheel is straight.
For a street car the "static" alignment should be very neutral. Camber should be around .5 degrees, toe should statically be very close to zero...toe out just a tad for front drive and zero or toe in just a tad for rear wheel drive. Caster should be very close to the OEM settings. If you have adjustable Caster, you can still have a straight drving vehicle AND get some camber out for turning. I know some specs take into account the crown of the road so left to right specs can be a bit different.
The best way to fix alignment is to get the shop to give you a print out of your current specs. Take those and factor in what the vehicle is doing now and go from there.
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