Well, another VX just bit the dust

[DUBPL8]

Didn't even hit 300,000 miles and would have been 7 years in February Went through so much with the amount I drove in that thing, now I only have one 40+mpg vehicle (2012 VW Golf TDI) No B18C swap and Tein coilovers in the future now with the VX. God, finding a bone stock Civic hatch is like finding a virgin blonde girl in Hollywood, let alone all of SoCal for that matter

Now I'm stuck with a disgusting taste from the airbag in my mouth and flashbacks from when I wrecked my Evo almost 9 years ago hitting a concrete barrier ugh won't be sleeping tonight

At least it wasn't my fault









Is it worth buying back from the insurance company?

[IndyFetch]

It doesn't look like it's hurt too badly. Request an estimate for repairs from the insurance company. If it doesn't have frame damage, or if the frame damage is repairable with a few hours on the frame rack (pulling, not sectioning), it may be worth keeping. The powertrain doesn't look hurt at all.

[Jay2TheRescue]

Just be glad you're not seriously hurt. It might take some time, but the car can be repaired or replaced. You can't.

[IndyFetch]

Good point, Jay. I say the same thing to my customers.

[Rusty94cx]

To buy my totaled Volvo back blue nook on it was7500$. It was like 1300$. I'll give you 100-150$ for the 02, instrument cluster, exhaust manifold, and a few trim pices. I'm sure you could get 100$ for the ecu and a couple hundred for the engine trans and then scap it for 100$. You'll come out ahead. Ask what the buy back is. Let me know cash ready. The stock hatches are out there be patient. I'ls buy it back you can take what you want off and let it go. Heck even take a few bits and pices off if you're not going to do the buy back.

[Rusty94cx]

I'm not sure how the salvage process works where your at here Ohio you get a salvage title you pat 50$ and have an inspection basic safety like doors on car that's about it. They just really check for stollen parts. It doesn't matter if airbag light is on or if the horn works really lax here then if you pass you get a rebuilt salvage title. Argue for top dollar make them find true comparables. It will be work on there part. You have the right to argue and don't nessicillialy take what they give you. I hot like $500 more cause I had receipts for Koni sturts and 2 new tires.

[DUBPL8]

lol they offered me $1600 for the car, I've seen them go for $3000+ on eBay. Any advice on negotiating with the insurance company?

[Jay2TheRescue]

When the insurance tried to total my Buick years ago I produced receipts for a new engine purchased from Buick, that included a 3 year/50,000 mile warranty that was still in effect. They went ahead and paid to get the car fixed.

[Rusty94cx]

http://www.gassavers.org/f2/what-do-i-do-now-14271.html
Read post #3. make them find you true comparables. Not just what bluebook says. Good luck. I would pull lots of little plastic trim pieces off and get some steel wheels on there before it goes to the scrapper. I need the hatch cover and the turn signal covers hint hint. $

[IndyFetch]

Most insurance companies don't haggle on the value. They just give NADA clean retail value (if it is <20 years old) and they're done with it. If the value comes back low, it is usually the customer's responsibility to find comparables that show that you cannot find a vehicle of the same year, model, trim, options, mileage, and condition as your car for the same price. If the insurance company finds comparables, you're done. Your only argument would be that the condition of the comparable vehicle is not as good as yours.


If you expect to get dollar-for-dollar value for upgrades or maintenance completed... don't. The value that the insurance company gives is assuming that the vehicle is in good running condition, with no major mechanical flaws. If you just changed out the engine, brakes, battery, clutch, etc., that will be considered maintenance completed to keep the car in good running condition. If you have UPGRADES to the car, such as better wheels, stereo, seats, etc., that is stuff that can be considered to add value to the car.

When considering whether an item adds value to a car, or how much value it adds, you must ask: "if there were two identical cars parked side by side on a dealer lot and one of them had this item, and the other one did not, how much more would the car with the item be expected to sell for?" You may have paid $250 for a stereo, but it may only add $50 to the value of the car over what it would have been worth with the stock stereo. You may have paid $250 for new tires, but it may only add $100 to the value of the car over what it would be worth with "good" tires. You may have paid $100 for a new muffler, and it may be worth nothing because the insurance company is already assuming the car to be in good running condition, able to pass all inspections.

I hope this helps. I work in total loss insurance claims for Indiana, Illinois, and Michigan. I have to explain this at least once a day.