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Old 08-22-2007, 07:27 AM   #11
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Re. diesel bump starting -
Diesels have higher compression engines. So more load on the clutch to crank over that engine than bump starting a regular gasoline engine. Don't know if it's enough to appreciably shorten the clutch life.

But heck, diesels are fuel sippers anyway. Just letting it idle wouldn't be that bad a thing to do. Ymmv of course.
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Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.

Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
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Old 08-22-2007, 12:05 PM   #12
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I did engine off coasting and bump started my '95 VX constantly from brand new off the lot in '95 until I sold it a few months ago w/ 225,000 miles on it. Never had any engine problems, still had the original clutch (still no signs of wear) when I sold it.
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Old 08-22-2007, 12:13 PM   #13
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Well, the '93 accord has many of the characteristics of the civic. I can be in 5th gear at 1200-1300rpm, anything lower and it will tremble. The only thing that really holds it back is it's weight, over 2700 pounds.
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Old 08-22-2007, 10:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993CivicVX View Post
Click and Clack the Taprid brothers
That's "Tappet," dude.
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Old 08-23-2007, 12:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colin View Post
That's "Tappet," dude.
Oops!! Jeez, yeah... I knew that....

Thanks everyone for weighing in on this issue. No one have problems running their battery down by doing this? I have to keep the ignition in the on position if I want the odometer to be working, and sometimes I can be coasting for several minutes (I live in the hilly Berkshires of western Massachusetts). If I ever find LRR tires for my VX I will be more inclined to do bump starting, especially since no one here seems to have had any averse effects with a gasoline engine. I think right now I'm more worried about running the battery down by doing it than the engine or clutch as the car didn't have enough juice to start a few days ago.
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:35 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by 1993CivicVX View Post
... No one have problems running their battery down by doing this? I have to keep the ignition in the on position if I want the odometer to be working, and sometimes I can be coasting for several minutes (I live in the hilly Berkshires of western Massachusetts).....
I've done only limited EOC with the ignition on however...

Not likely that leaving the ignition on will overtax the battery. In fact I can't imagine that would happen, unless perhaps you nearly drain the battery first by using it to jump-start a bunch of lame cars or some such thing. What's left running while you coast would not be a significant load. That is, it's not using up the battery's charge rapidly.

My guess is that the computer is running, and the warning lights on the dash. Plus whatever lights/stereo etc. you have on. I would guess that the fuel pump(s) shut off after a few seconds once the computer detects the engin is not running. At least that's how our cars are set up. You can test this in the driveway - leave the key on with engine off and go listen for the pumps.

Major loads would be:
Headlights, especially if using them with driving lights or fogs added. High beams aren't much more of a load than the lows - check the bulb wattages if you don't believe me.
Heater / ac / defrost fan. Check your fuse; mine is 25A!
Kicka** stereo, if you have one running.
Window defrost grid.

Bump starting of course doesn't use the battery to spin the engine. Starting by battery + starter many many times while creeping in traffic might drain the battery. But nobody here has been suggesting that or discussing doing it.
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Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.

Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
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Old 08-24-2007, 07:13 PM   #17
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hmm... thanks for the detailed analysis on battery usage, and yes, I always assumed highbeams use much more juice than low beams. I didn't have the radio on but I prolly did have the lights on. Couple times bump starting it today it hesitated at first.... Talked to someone who works at Jiffy Lube and he said, based on the description of some symptoms my car has been having (I dind't mention the bump starting) and he said definitely clutch problems. Dunno if the hesitation to bump start would be an indication of clutch problems? Maybe I should hold off until I get this baby in purring like a kitten. BTW, if anyone is interested or have any opinions on this, I found a clutch for $134 with free shipping. If I DO need a clutch, does anyone see any reason why I shouldn't buy this part?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pr...ory=clutch_kit
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Old 08-24-2007, 09:10 PM   #18
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it seems like you can get a full clutch kit at a local auto parts store for about that same price, I think I paid maybe $145 or so for mine and it's been in use for the last year now without issue, altho the throwout bearing was a little less then I hoped for, so I paid an extra $6 for a higher qaulity one.
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993CivicVX View Post
hmm... thanks for the detailed analysis on battery usage, and yes, I always assumed highbeams use much more juice than low beams. I didn't have the radio on but I prolly did have the lights on. Couple times bump starting it today it hesitated at first.... Talked to someone who works at Jiffy Lube and he said, based on the description of some symptoms my car has been having (I dind't mention the bump starting) and he said definitely clutch problems. Dunno if the hesitation to bump start would be an indication of clutch problems? Maybe I should hold off until I get this baby in purring like a kitten. BTW, if anyone is interested or have any opinions on this, I found a clutch for $134 with free shipping. If I DO need a clutch, does anyone see any reason why I shouldn't buy this part?

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pr...ory=clutch_kit
dunno how the warranty is on those, but i work at autozone and we sell clutch kits for about the same price and they come with lifetime warranties. its worth a shot to check it out anyway.
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:26 PM   #20
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dunno how the warranty is on those, but i work at autozone and we sell clutch kits for about the same price and they come with lifetime warranties. its worth a shot to check it out anyway.
What, where? Everything I've seen that's clutch related is priced individually and only comes w/ a one year warranty. Have any links? I'd give my left nut for a lifetime warrantied clutch.

Edit- Oh shiz there it is, under clutch set. Thanks for the info!
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