Using heavier viscosity oil to increase fuel economy?

[WisJim]

Originally Posted by theclencher

Did he really???

I was willing to give him the benefit of some small shred of the doubt, but if he said that, then forgetaboutit. That is complete nonsense. Overfilling leads to crankshaft windage which leads to horsepower loss i.e. less efficiency.

"We normally overfill the crankcase one quart by adding one bottle of MPZ Magnetic Friction Reducer additive along with one bottle of EAL Engine Assembly Lube that is a slippery supplement without equal on this planet." to quote his site.
It is nonsense like this that makes you doubt everything he says. The acetone info has been debunked quite thoroughly, too, at least to my satisfaction.

His website comes under the category of "It's on the internet, it must be true".

[chesspirate]

Originally Posted by chesspirate

so, in this thread we've had confirmation of either "no change" or "slight increase" in FE... Why? this should be looked into a bit deeper i think...

So who is willing to test?

[jamescartagena]

I plan on it.
This is what I am going to use on our vehicles:
1992 Saturn SL1 20w50 Walmart brand (2000 miles driven on this oil so far)
1997 Ford F150 4.6L 20w50 Walmart brand (Solid 20 mpg over the past 25000 miles)
2003 Honda Odyssey 5w40 Shell Rotella T synthetic (19 mpg combined city/highway for past 43000 miles)

[jamescartagena]

Quick update!
Changed truck and minvan oil on Saturday. First thing that was noticed was a quieter running engine.

Drove 100 miles on the truck so far. Too soon to really tell, but it looks like it is helping (don't know how much).

Honda, wife and I are really seeing a difference on this first tankful. 150 miles driven so far and needle is definitely higher than where it normally with this amount of miles.

Will give an update every tankful with each vehicle.

[GasSavers_Ryland]

I have a question for jamescartagena, and anyone else who is going to try running thicker oil, how many miles are on each of these vehicles, what is the engine compresison with thin oil, and what is the compression with thicker oil, and how does that compare to what the compression should be? I only ask this because if it's an older vehicle with worn rings, it would only make sence that thicker oil would increase compression, and give better mileage, thus useing thicker oil might not work for people like me who run 0W-30 on an engine with 225,000 miles and 180psi compression acrose all 4 cylenders when the ideal compression for my car is 185psi, and I've seen them run fine with compression as low as 120psi, but at that point, thick oil is when it really helps.

[jamescartagena]

97 Ford F150 - 122,899 miles
92 Saturn SL1 - 123,350 miles
03 Honda Odyssey - 44000 miles

Never run a compression check against any of them (don't have a compression tester as well), but if oil cleanliness is any indication of ring seal quality, the oil all three vehicles only starts to turn brown after 3000 miles. In 25000 miles of driving, the truck has only used 3 quarts of makeup oil, and the Saturn after 4000 miles needed 14 ounces.

[Ted Hart]

Originally Posted by Ryland

the main thing I can see with heavier oil is that it is going to help the rings seal better, increasing compression in an older engine, from what I've been told, you want to run the lightest weight oil that still maintains oil presure (without a gauge this is hard to do), to light of an oil and it flows out of the bearings to fast, and you loose that cushin that prevents metal to metal contact.

Hmmm.... "Flowing out" faster means what? If it flows out faster, mustn't it also flow in faster to replace itself(after all, this is a hydraulic system!)? And, flowing faster ... in and out ... means better cooling! Cooling is the 2nd job of the oil!
Plus, when the engine is first started...the oil is cold ... and thick! Oil pumps don't like thick oil (the little pressure relief valve opens!)...narrow spaces don't like flowing thick "coolant"! It's the FLOW of oil, not the pressure which lubricates! No flow=no oil=no lubrication! ALL weights of oil are thin when hot! 5-w-30 is fine! "Hot" 30 weight is like "hot" 60 weight...they will both flow! Cold is another matter, entirely! Ever hear the expression "95 % of engine wear occurs at start-up"? Hmmm.... I wonder why?

[JanGeo]

Pumping oil pressure is a power losing operation. Unfortuanately the Synlube in my xB engine is 20w50 rated and not the 10w30 called for but I still see higher mileage and will not be worrying about heating the oil up too much. But I don't rev the engine too much when cold either or else the oil pump bypass kicks in as it can also work the oil filter extra too.

OPPS and a little extra oil in the Lawn Tractor resulted in it blowing into the carb and smoking up a massive cloud of blue smoke and stalling the engine. About 1/4 inch on the dip stick maybe 8 oz extra - drained it out and it was ok.

[Ted Hart]

Originally Posted by krousdb

While I can't speak for other Hybrids, I can tell you that Toyota recommends 5W-20 for the Prius. I just choose to use 0W-20. If it's good enough for 110 MPG over 1400 miles in my Prius, just think what I would get with a good gear lube oil, say 80W-90?

Right on!!! This nonsense just goes on & on & on! -Ted Hart

[jamescartagena]

So far to date, the Saturn is averaging 38.78 in the last 3000 miles where I where my best single tank before using heavier oil was 37.2. Have two tanks where I have gone over 40 mpg. No data on my truck as I don't drive it enough but I can tell you that the engine is noticeably quieter. Same thing with the Honda.