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Old 04-21-2007, 01:57 PM   #1
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I'd also be less inclined to kill the engine at stops or while coasting with a turbo, which takes some of the driver side of FE out of the equation. Not good for gassers imo.
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I think if i could get that type of FE i would have no problem driving a dildo shaped car.
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Old 04-24-2007, 11:32 AM   #2
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I'd also be less inclined to kill the engine at stops or while coasting with a turbo, which takes some of the driver side of FE out of the equation. Not good for gassers imo.
I didn't even think of that. You're referring to the cooling down by keeping the liquids flowing after the car is shut of, right? I'll have to talk to some turbo gurus and see what they can suggest. The only thing I can think of would be an auxiliary electric pump.

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Question : Since you have the EFIE docs, can you tell me how many amps it draws? I have the EFIE but I didn't order the docs. I want to put a fuse on it's power. The Eagle Research people told me it doesn't need it, but I would like to do it anyway.

Question : Also, since you have the docs, can you tell if it will act as a "pass through" if there is no power going to the EFIE? If yes, then I can put a switch on it in order to switch between real and faked 02 sensor input.

I can probably figure all of this out, but if you have the time, that would be great.

Thank You,

CarloSW2 the mooch
It doesn't list how much current it pulls, but the bridge rectifier is rated at 1 amp, so it can't be any more than that.

I know I put a switch on mine. I'm pretty sure the plans call for one. Mine is setup to run the O2 signal straight through with the switch in one position and the signal is modified in the other.

Matt
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Old 04-24-2007, 12:01 PM   #3
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Most of the posters with manual transmissions use some sort of coasting with the engine off coasting to help out mileage. I'd be hesitant to do this w/ a turbo because of the same reasons turbo timers exist. Like you said, you can circulate the oil via an electric pre-luber, but there's still thermal cycling of the turbo to deal with in order to take advantage of coasting.
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I think if i could get that type of FE i would have no problem driving a dildo shaped car.
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Old 04-24-2007, 03:58 PM   #4
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Turbo timers exist to sell turbo timers. For normal everyday driving, modern turbos are adequately cooled. They only need a cool down period when run hard. Much of that issue can be mitigated however by doing what many of us are already doing: use a synthetic oil. Synthetic oil will not coke up like dino oil until a much higher temperature.

In other words, if you have a turbo and are driving for efficiency, there's nothing to be concerned with on forced shutdowns. It's unlikely the turbo is getting hot enough to matter.
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:23 AM   #5
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Matt -

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...

It doesn't list how much current it pulls, but the bridge rectifier is rated at 1 amp, so it can't be any more than that.

I know I put a switch on mine. I'm pretty sure the plans call for one. Mine is setup to run the O2 signal straight through with the switch in one position and the signal is modified in the other.

Matt
Thanks, that's what I wanted to know.

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