*The official what works to improve miles per gallon thread*

[JanGeo]

Yeah I figured it would be good for a laugh! You should hear about the guy in BETTERMPG going on about spark plug wires!

[Compaq888]

That's funny, I should see at least 10mpg improvement.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by krousdb

WOOT! SHIZZLE! YO G!

You're cracking me up here.

[diamondlarry]

Originally Posted by JanGeo

Yeah I figured it would be good for a laugh! You should hear about the guy in BETTERMPG going on about spark plug wires!

That wouldn't be me, would it. ;-) I disagreed with the suggestion that high resistance was best and I think I opened up a can of worms. :-)

[Compaq888]

I believe switching to new wires will just make less problems later. Plus NGK>Bosch anyday.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by diamondlarry

That wouldn't be me, would it. ;-) I disagreed with the suggestion that high resistance was best and I think I opened up a can of worms. :-)

There was a long discussion about spark plug wires on the n600 yahoo group I frequent. Basically someone said to go with solid core wires because they are better... etc. etc. Someone else said to use the carbon core wires, as they will not interfere with the radio like solid core will.

The argument continued. One person said that all race cars use solid core wires, and then someone else mentioned that race cars will do anything to squeeze that extra .01% of power.

In the end, I use carbon wires. They work just fine, which is all I really care about, at least on the n600.

[JanGeo]

Hey it was you !!! you guys get around.

Bottom line from my rambler days - the bigger the gap the higher the voltage the more energy the spark releases and the better it can ignite the air fuel mixture espically if the mixture is lean. Carbon wires loose a little bit of energy and reduce radiation and may get a little warm to ward off moisture. Last thing you want next to electronic sensors is RF interferrence so use the carbon resistor wires.

[rh77]

Originally Posted by SVOboy

I agree. Especially when we're doing new crap and making up our on names for these contraptions some terminology needs to be settled upon.

Wiki me!

Wiki me already! (the HAI terminology was my idea -- evil laugh) Ha, ha -- I'll make Billions! Wait, Wikipedia is free -- dammit :-)

But yes, since we seem to be doing some different things compared with other groups, common terminology and implementation should be agreed upon.

Back to the tires -- I've never heard of an "overinflation" blow-out -- the underinflation creates more heat, breaks down the tire, and bickety-bam! I've run 40+ on 44 max tires and only have very minor wear in the center of the tread, and the tires' are worn out anyway, so it's minimal compared with the efficiency result. Common physics tells you that a harder tire is easier to propel than an soft tire -- try riding a bike with those conditions. At autocross, we would pump-up our street tires to 50 lbs + and adjust them after every run as they heated up. Never a blow-out in my experiences -- even as an observer.

Common physics tells you that a harder tire is easier to propel than an soft tire -- try riding a bike with those conditions. It has to provide better economy, but "how much" is the question.

RH77

[MetroMPG]

Originally Posted by JanGeo

the bigger the gap the higher the voltage the more energy the spark releases and the better it can ignite the air fuel mixture

but the site mentioned above claims exactly the opposite:

Set the spark plug gap to 0.025 for best results. Or close your factory gap by .010

the effect of gap is something i've never looked into.

[diamondlarry]

Originally Posted by rh77

Wiki me already! (the HAI terminology was my idea -- evil laugh) Ha, ha -- I'll make Billions! Wait, Wikipedia is free -- dammit :-)

But yes, since we seem to be doing some different things compared with other groups, common terminology and implementation should be agreed upon.

Back to the tires -- I've never heard of an "overinflation" blow-out -- the underinflation creates more heat, breaks down the tire, and bickety-bam! I've run 40+ on 44 max tires and only have very minor wear in the center of the tread, and the tires' are worn out anyway, so it's minimal compared with the efficiency result. Common physics tells you that a harder tire is easier to propel than an soft tire -- try riding a bike with those conditions. At autocross, we would pump-up our street tires to 50 lbs + and adjust them after every run as they heated up. Never a blow-out in my experiences -- even as an observer.

Common physics tells you that a harder tire is easier to propel than an soft tire -- try riding a bike with those conditions. It has to provide better economy, but "how much" is the question.

RH77

I have been running 50-55 in my tires that are rated at 44 for nearly a year now with no bad effects.