Teflon - Slick50 - Synlube + Oils & Additives

[JanGeo]

Ok I just took two hours to change the power steering fluid - what a pain not having the right size hose adapters but I managed to heat and shrink a vinyl hose and connected it into the return hose from the rack into a waste bottle and by turning the steering back and forth the rack pumped the fluid out of the system until I got air then added the Synlube to the reservior and pumped that through until it started coming out. Took a little less than 500ml to change the fluid with a little over 500ml left over from the liter for the next change in 5 years. The new stuff is pale red and is really slippery and the old stuff was turning dark already. Next I change the engine oil and tranny oil.

[JanGeo]

Ohh hum ok I changed my oil for the first and last time! Man that Synlube is black and flows like crazy!

[JanGeo]

Todays driving got me head winds home only getting about 42 and I hit EVERY FREEKING red light and one I got twice - thing went green then red then green again just as I stopped. On the return trip I managed about 50mpg and the tank average is up a little from the last 40-41mpg so far but time will tell. Seems like the Synlube is working nicely - sounds quieter too!

[mtbiker278]

I saw on the synlube website that the have a max increase in MPG of 8% and as low as 2%. From your gas log that should be an increase of 0.75-3mpg. I look forward to future reports.

It's been about 300 miles since I put the royal purple 5w20 in. The engine seems to be running a bit quieter. No noticeable MPG gains, although I didn't really expect any. If there were any gains I would have attributed them to my over inflated tires. Traffic around here has been horrible. Last week there was accidents 4 out of the five days I worked on my route home. Marylander can't drive worth a damn. Especially in their huge H2s and navigators. The funniest thing I've seen in the DOT has these signs about the higway for traffic notifications and such. The message up on them today was "slower speeds save gas". While I was driving under the sign at 52mph a guy in an H2 blew by me in the far left lane doing about 75. Make you wonder if anyone really cares.

[JanGeo]

OK just changed my oil filter in my Synlube lubricated xB. ehewww I do NOT miss changing filters at all. It seems it was a little worse for wear as well - the bottom was starting to flake metal off the filter can and was rather rusty even though it is protected by the front grill area and a bottom splash shield from direct road spray. Topped the engine off with the bottle of "Add Oil" and drained the filter out into a spare bottle to use for misc stuff as well as to send a 4 oz sample back to Synlube for analysis to see how the corrosion protection components were standing up.
Mileage at Synlube install was 3829 miles
Mileage at Synlube Filter change 29,902 miles
= 26,073 miles on filter adding about 1/2 quart Add Oil

[Project84]

eager to see the oil report... though the information isn't relative to any experiments I might do to my car since I burn a lot of oil and have 150k mi. on the car.

Still, very brave of anyone to go so long on the same oil/filter.

[101mpg]

I'd like to see the report as well. I want to get the CRX rebuilt head to toe and put in all the slippery stuff in EVERY moving part I can find.

[bigsyke]

Hold on, 150k on an oil?

MoS2 is good in grease, but not so much in a long OCI engine oil. MoDTC is used in the oil as Moly. You dont want Teflon or graphite, you want ZDDP. Mos2 tends to attack yellow metals, could possibly fall out of suspension in time. Has anybody done a VOA on this oil yet? I know its probably redline oil on steroids, but I cant see the TBN lasting 150k. Plus once gaskets in the valve covers start going, the TAN levels skyrocket if the OCI is pushed out too long.


I use PP with some liqui-moly MoS2, and a few shots of MMO.

[eee]

Must be a typo. I think long OCI's are a recipe for disaster anyways. Personally, an OCI of 3000 to 3500 in the winter and 4500 to 5000 in the summer/non-winter works best for me.

MoS2 has very few drawbacks; one is that it potentially not good if moisture gets in the oil (something it tends to do more in the winter). Hence, I add MoS2 (Lubro moly or mr. moly or whatever) during the summer OCI.

MoS2 is superior to chlorinated hydrocarbons in every possible way, and a bottle of liqui moly at Napa is only like $4.

I'd never put Teflon (Slick 50) in an auto engine. It's an environmental disaster in the making and may even form corrosive gunk in your oil over time. MMO in oil is somewhat questionable but at least won't cause carcinogens to be released into the environment.

Originally Posted by bigsyke

Hold on, 150k on an oil?

MoS2 is good in grease, but not so much in a long OCI engine oil. MoDTC is used in the oil as Moly. You dont want Teflon or graphite, you want ZDDP. Mos2 tends to attack yellow metals, could possibly fall out of suspension in time. Has anybody done a VOA on this oil yet? I know its probably redline oil on steroids, but I cant see the TBN lasting 150k. Plus once gaskets in the valve covers start going, the TAN levels skyrocket if the OCI is pushed out too long.


I use PP with some liqui-moly MoS2, and a few shots of MMO.

[Jay2TheRescue]

Say what you will about Slick 50, but it saved me from making some expensive repairs until I could afford to do them. On my Buick the oil pressure light was coming on under 30 MPH. Being a poor college student, I dumped a bottle of Slick 50 in there, and drove it with the oil pressure light on for 2 years (about 35,000 miles) until I could afford to have a new engine put in the car.