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04-17-2007, 08:58 AM
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#31
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 557
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CO ZX2
CO ZX2:
I thought my battery was fairly well-charged but was still showing around 14.5 volts when running this test.
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That is normal. It is necessary for the alternator to be at a higher voltage than the battery (13.2 for a six cell Pb-A) for current to flow. The question isn't how much voltage, but how many amperes? The amperes are a better indication of the actual load on the belt,(and drag on the engine) since the voltage regulator will keep the charging voltage at right around 14.4 and the amperes are allowed to vary.
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04-17-2007, 09:59 AM
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#32
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Team OPEC Busters!
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 196
Country: United States
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I will do the test as well, I might be off of course becasue I am running a diesel. I will also get it in .1L
I do know my car idles warm at 925 rpm at .25L or .066 gph
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04-17-2007, 10:51 AM
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#33
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Team GasMisers5!
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 440
Country: United States
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0.066 gph
So, if someone was pushing the car at 3mph, you would get 45mpg with the engine idling
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Team GasMisers5 - #1 for first three rounds of the original GS Fuel Economy Challenge
Miles displaced by e-bike since 1 Jan 2008: 62.6 ( 0 kWh used)
Hypomiler
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04-17-2007, 04:17 PM
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#34
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 460
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landspeed
0.066 gph
So, if someone was pushing the car at 3mph, you would get 45mpg with the engine idling
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landspeed, great job last week. Will you do the fuel useage test on your car?
I am gathering info, thinking of a turbo. If you can, match the rpm numbers that I did. Thanks
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04-17-2007, 05:59 PM
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#35
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 557
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landspeed
0.066 gph
So, if someone was pushing the car at 3mph, you would get 45mpg with the engine idling
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Except that it will hold 5th gear at idle, about 28 mph.
Calculate........NOW!
Double check your numbers since it can't possibly be correct.....now!
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04-17-2007, 06:24 PM
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#36
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 392
Country: United States
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CO ZX2:
The much lower gph figures in your rpm tests are probably due to your 10,000+ft elevation. The air is a lot thinner up there, so the engine controller needs to add less fuel to that thinner air to maintain the correct air/fuel ratios.
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04-20-2007, 02:00 AM
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#37
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Team GasMisers5!
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 440
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lug_Nut
Except that it will hold 5th gear at idle, about 28 mph.
Calculate........NOW!
Double check your numbers since it can't possibly be correct.....now!
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CO ZX2 : I don't have an instantaneous MPG meter yet, but will do those tests once I do!. I also need to fix my AFM as it is running a bit rich again
Lug_Nut : The 0.066gph sounds reasonable for some cars. In fact, I was using a work car yesterday with instantaneous MPG - it was a diesel, and at 10mph, the MPG goes >90.0 (if idling and coasting).
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Team GasMisers5 - #1 for first three rounds of the original GS Fuel Economy Challenge
Miles displaced by e-bike since 1 Jan 2008: 62.6 ( 0 kWh used)
Hypomiler
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04-20-2007, 04:29 AM
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#38
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 557
Country: United States
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It's not necessary to keep down to a jogging speed or slower for better F.E.
I averaged 83 mpg (2.8l/100km) at (barely) highway speeds over a 250+ mile course in the 2003 Tour de Sol. The proscribed course simultaneously tested both fuel efficiency and range. An average of 47 mph per loop was the slowest I could go to get credit for the loop distance.
The 2005 Tour de Sol had a competitor's choice of course with the requirement of a finish at the event site and a minimum of 500 miles distance. That year the car got 77 mpg (3.3l/100km) at an average of 42 mph.
My present onboard display frequently indicates 99.9 mpg, its display limit.
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04-20-2007, 07:46 AM
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#39
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Team OPEC Busters!
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 196
Country: United States
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Diesels don’t like high RPM’s Here are my result with a warm engine. This really makes me want to do the 5th gear swap (swapping it for a gear 11% lower) at idle I sit at 905 rpm, can’t get below that. I put (CO ZX2) for reference.
0905 rpm .0528 (.13) gph
1000 rpm .0752 (.18) gph
1500 rpm .1585 (.29) gph
2000 rpm .2906 (.37) gph
2500 rpm .5046 (.50) gph
3000 rpm .7397 (.66) gph
3500 rpm .8189 (.77) gph
4000 rpm .9774 (.93) gph
So it looks like once I get above 2500 rpm I start to loose overall efficiency compared to a gasser?
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04-20-2007, 09:54 PM
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#40
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Registered Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 615
Country: United States
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I went back and checked my consumption at different rpms. I was concerned that my readings were not accurate enough last time, so I made sure the radiator fans were off this time. There were no other loads on the engine. I held each rpm point as steady as possible while I took the reading, which was about 15 to 20 seconds. In between each rpm point I let the engine idle with both fans on.
Idle 720rpm .34gph
1000rpm .44gph
1500rpm .63gph
2000rpm .83gph
2500rpm 1.07gph
These are slightly lower than my first reading, which were done on a warm afternoon. Maybe the fans were coming on? Either way, this shows me the base consumption for my motor.
CO ZX2 wrote:'How much boost do you see at 2000, 4000 and max boost? I have given some thought to a turbo for Old Reliable. Trying to get some ideas.'
I've never really looked at boost around 2k rpm. I might see 5 to 8 psi around 2k. The turbo hits max boost of 20psi around 3200 rpm. To give you an idea of the powerband, redline is 7k, peak HP is somewhere around 6200rpm, peak torque is somewhere around 3800rpm. So if you're looking for a turbo, check that the turbo flow matches your motor. I have more info if you need to know more.
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