Spring clamps?

[oneinchsidehop]

Oh, BTW, if these are for the metro, Escort GT springs from the junkyard fit... cut 3 coils from the front and 2 from the back and cut the bump stops in half.

That should be enough to make a clear aero difference. Yep... I'm looking for a metro....

Like this:


from here:
http://www.geocities.com/metrosport2k/jason.html

[cfg83]

theclencher -

Originally Posted by theclencher

Scratch = a non-issue.

He could also get one of these :

Attachment 943
http://www.gotfuturama.com/Informati...s/clamps.dhtml

But ... you'd have to go into cryo for 1000 years and join the robot mafia ...

CarloSW2

[baddog671]

My springs are progressive rates, so cutting is not an option for them. Other's cars might be different though...

I might make my own clamps, those dont seem to lower it enough. If I get it down an inch, I might get it back to factory height. Since I removed so much weight it sits higher.

[oneinchsidehop]

Originally Posted by baddog671

My springs are progressive rates, so cutting is not an option for them. Other's cars might be different though...

I might make my own clamps, those dont seem to lower it enough. If I get it down an inch, I might get it back to factory height. Since I removed so much weight it sits higher.

Which car?

[trebuchet03]

So I'm going to take an intuitive crack at the spring scratch ideas floating in here...

So coil springs are just, in this case, steel rod that has been bent... On a smaller spring, where the ratio between scratch depth and rod thickness is high, a weakness would be very noticeable (especially in fatigue life).... For a larger rod thickness, like what you'll find on a car - it's going to be mighty difficult to blame a scratch as the reason for failure given how many fatigue cycles it's going to ultimately endure before failure.....

What seems more likely is that you'll scratch a protective coating (as theclencher eluded to)... And it will start to rust and corrode...

cutting off a couple of coils with a grinder (NOT A TORCH)

That's some mighty good advice... Especially when you don't know how the steel was processed....

[baddog671]

Originally Posted by oneinchsidehop

Which car?

My Metro. I didnt weigh the last batch of crap I took off it, but I should be about 115lbs less than stock.

[oneinchsidehop]

Originally Posted by baddog671

My Metro. I didnt weigh the last batch of crap I took off it, but I should be about 115lbs less than stock.

Now this is getting interesting... what did you take out?

You can try the clamps (I'd ask /innocentface/ "can I bring 'em back if they don't fit my springs?/end innocentface/) if you wanna DIY and just a small drop. If they are variable rate springs make sure you put them on the thicker part (so you keep your small bump sensitivity). For me? I'd drop the little bugger with the escort springs and look for a stiffer sway bar to boot.

Nothin' wrong with having a hypermiler that can be fun in the twisties too... err, for "carving" turns during a coast down

"It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow" -Smokey Yunick

[trebuchet03]

Originally Posted by oneinchsidehop

If they are variable rate springs make sure you put them on the thicker part (so you keep your small bump sensitivity).

Springs don't work that way

You can model a variable rate spring as a set of springs in series... Which means the equivalent spring rate is the inverse of the sum of the inverse of each spring rate. For Two springs:


So you can't cut out the very stiff spring and expect the less stiff section to keep the ride smooth - both are dependent on each other.

-----
But, progressive springs are a whole different story - progressive springs (nonlinear spring rate) are NOT the same as variable springs (linear spring rate). Progressives depend on coil binding. So, in theory you could cut the non binding section - BUT, you still won't preserve the spring characteristics as the spring is linear while coils are not bound. So you're going to go from a stiffer spring overall to a MUCH stiffer spring (in nonlinear fashion) as coils bind

[baddog671]

Originally Posted by oneinchsidehop

Now this is getting interesting... what did you take out?
You can try the clamps (I'd ask /innocentface/ "can I bring 'em back if they don't fit my springs?/end innocentface/) if you wanna DIY and just a small drop. If they are variable rate springs make sure you put them on the thicker part (so you keep your small bump sensitivity). For me? I'd drop the little bugger with the escort springs and look for a stiffer sway bar to boot.

Nothin' wrong with having a hypermiler that can be fun in the twisties too... err, for "carving" turns during a coast down

"It's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow" -Smokey Yunick

Lol, sorry it took me awhile to get a respond to ur question. Alittle bit here, a little bit there, but I'll tell you the major things.

Backseat section: 30lbs (noone is in the back and i haul stuff with it)
Rear bumper inner support bar: 10lbs (the metal was rusted to the point of no purpose and the plastic "bar" was just sitting there...it squeeked like hell too)
Rear swaybar and hardware: 6lbs (dont ask)
Headunit and speakers: 10lbs (blown)
Rear sound deadening: approx. 10lbs (i cant remember for sure)

There's 66lbs, the rest was smaller stuff.

I just removed the carpet and some of the front sound deadening becuase water got through a rubber plug and made the carpet nasty. Still have to weigh that but a good 20 lbs in that.

[oneinchsidehop]

Originally Posted by trebuchet03

Springs don't work that way

You can model a variable rate spring as a set of springs in series... Which means the equivalent spring rate is the inverse of the sum of the inverse of each spring rate. For Two springs:


So you can't cut out the very stiff spring and expect the less stiff section to keep the ride smooth - both are dependent on each other.

-----
But, progressive springs are a whole different story - progressive springs (nonlinear spring rate) are NOT the same as variable springs (linear spring rate). Progressives depend on coil binding. So, in theory you could cut the non binding section - BUT, you still won't preserve the spring characteristics as the spring is linear while coils are not bound. So you're going to go from a stiffer spring overall to a MUCH stiffer spring (in nonlinear fashion) as coils bind

So where would you recommend binding a variable spring?

The Escort GT springs are linear I believe. The ride will be more harsh, (which is fine by me I body roll decreases at the same time) but after looking at the pics of the car he's working on I don't think a dropped autocross style geo is his thing, which is what I'd have fun in. I think he just wants the simplest path to a stock ride after weight reduction. (speak up here bro, what's your goal...)