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11-04-2006, 12:13 PM
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#11
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,225
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onegammyleg
Why not use plugs with open electrodes.
I have used Magneti Marelli 4 electrode splugs extensively in performance applications.
Or you can use these..
But I have not seen an ounce of FE improvement.
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Mainly because the NGK are 1.98 for each plug.
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11-04-2006, 04:24 PM
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#12
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Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 44
Country: United States
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I think Ill try this trick. The engine has been missing once in a great while, so it looks like Im going to replace all that fun stuff, and I might as well try modding the plugs.
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11-04-2006, 04:28 PM
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#13
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,325
Country: United States
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c8089923: the new spark plugs should take the same size wrench as the old ones.
I've tried the open electrode spark plugs, and noticed little to no positive affects in any of my japanise designed engines, altho I hear they work great in amarican made engines.
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11-04-2006, 10:19 PM
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#14
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Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 541
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zpiloto
Mainly because the NGK are 1.98 for each plug.
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The race plugs I used were about 7$ each but this was quite sum time ago.
The cost didnt bother me , I didnt pay the bills out of my pocket.
We used normal plugs after that.
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11-05-2006, 06:16 AM
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#15
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Registered Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 933
Country: United States
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Diamondlarry did a spark plug comparison test a while back (but i can't click to zoom in on the results):
http://www.gassavers.org/showthread....park+plug+test
__________________
2008 EPA adjusted:
Distance traveled by bicycle in 2007= 1,830ish miles
Average commute speed=25mph (yes, that's in a car)
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11-05-2006, 09:38 AM
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#16
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Registered Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 541
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kickflipjr
Diamondlarry did a spark plug comparison test
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Yeah , same opinion as mine.
For the same money you could buy some corplast sheet and do some aero-mods and see a real benefit.
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11-05-2006, 10:09 AM
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#17
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FE nut
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,020
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kickflipjr
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It's in kind of an odd format but here it is.
Quote:
Splitfire Triple Platinum
46.7 mpg
11.9 seconds
47.2 mpg
11.51 seconds
47.0 mpg
11.4 seconds
50.1 mpg
10.7 seconds
46.9 mpg
11.44 seconds
47.7 mpg
11.7 seconds
NGK regular
46.7 mpg
13.19 seconds
46.54 mpg
12.46 seconds
45.5 mpg
12.24 seconds
47.5 mpg
12.82 seconds
47.7 mpg
12.34 seconds
44.7 mpg
10.16 seconds
E3
46.5 mpg
13.64 seconds
46.3 mpg
11.52 seconds
45.7 mpg
10.74 seconds
44.8 mpg
10.74 seconds
46.6 mpg
11.72 seconds
47.7 mpg
12.10seconds
Torque Master
46.4 mpg
13.76 seconds
46.43 mpg
11.7 seconds
45.9 mpg
11.46 seconds
46.6 mpg
12.37 seconds
47.4 mpg
11.29 seconds
46.3 mpg
10.73 seconds
Bosch Platinum +4
46.1 mpg
14.25 seconds
46.3 mpg
12.65 seconds
46.6 mpg
12.79 seconds
45.7 mpg
11.54 seconds
46.5 mpg
12.54 seconds
46.3 mpg
12.63 seconds
I took the highest and the lowest mpg and times and discarded them to come up with an average for each plug in each category. My tests indicate that the only significant increase was with the Splitfire Triple Platinum plugs. It also shows that mpg actually decreased with the E3, Torque Master, and Bosch Platinum +4 plugs. According to the Splitfire website, their plugs sell for $5.99/plug. My conclusion: While Splitfire Triple Platinum plugs do give slightly increased mileage, it may not be worth the added cost.
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Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you.
2007 Prius,
Team Slow Burn
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06-17-2008, 11:54 AM
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#18
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 689
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zpiloto
No you drill a 1/16" hole in the bonding strap above the electrode and then dish the electrode a little so that when it fires the spark will go through the hole in the bonding strap for more spark front. There's pictures in the link. It an interesting idea, granted that there is only 2-3% to be gained in this area but every bit helps.
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The link no longer works. I have heard of people doing this before, but never knew exactly how it was done. Does the hole go directly above the electrode? What do you use to dish out the electrode?
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Hipermiler
#47 on my way to #1
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06-17-2008, 01:16 PM
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#19
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Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,652
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The web archive caught a copy of the article, but not the pix...
http://web.archive.org/web/200603150...id=31&Itemid=2
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I remember The RoadWarrior..To understand who he was, you have to go back to another time..the world was powered by the black fuel & the desert sprouted great cities..Gone now, swept away..two mighty warrior tribes went to war & touched off a blaze which engulfed them all. Without fuel, they were nothing..thundering machines sputtered & stopped..Only those mobile enough to scavenge, brutal enough to pillage would survive. The gangs took over the highways, ready to wage war for a tank of juice
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06-18-2008, 09:10 AM
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#20
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Registered Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,111
Country: United States
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Lowering your gap from stock is like advancing your timing because of the lower voltage requirement.
Drilling a hole in the ground strap only serves to give a better 90 degree angle for the spark to jump to, lowering required voltage to fire the plug, and, again, advancing your timing. The spark won't fire through the hole either, it'll fire to the point of least resistance (closest point), the bottom near the electrode.
Increasing the voltage(or gap) will give you better ignitabillity when you go into lean burn. What you really want though is more current to the plug. Automotive ignition systems are grossly inefficient.
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