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Old 04-04-2006, 09:24 PM   #11
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I've heard from a number of people that seafoam is just a bunch of water and water-like substances, hence the smoke.
While it seems true that the smoke would be from water its just not true.

An engine cannot create the temperatures needed to maintain visible water vapor for the 5 feet that seafoam takes to dissipate after exiting the tailpipe. The temperatures you are looking for come from sources such as nuclear power plants.

Some of that smoke you get is the oil that sits in the intake washing out and slowly burning due to the lowered CC temperatures that seafoam creates. (one reason why its so safe!)

Seafoam has a very small percentage of water which is why its so awesome too. Anyone thats ever replaced a blown (coolant side) head gasket would know. That coolant leaking into the CC makes that engine sparkling clean compared to any normal operating engine. That water is super heated and really gets all the carbon deposits out good.

Anyway AutoRX claims this and that...along with some seal leak protection: "Auto-Rx Ongoing Maintenance Plan...For continuous and long-term protection, 3 ounces of Auto-Rx® should be added with each oil change. In addition, you should continue to use non-synthetic oil for maximum benefit."

They got you!! Synthetic oil is the very best slow gentle oil varnish preventative and cleaner. AutoRX tells you to keep adding it because AutoRX somehow creates buildup along the oil seals to keep leaks at bay. Buildup is what were trying to oust! Where else is that buildup occuring?

Anyway, AutoRX says it takes 1500 miles...yeah thats prolly the same amount of time a change to Synthetic oil would take to remove varnish.

Wish I had pictures of all the dipsticks on all the car's I've owned! A dipstick that was discolored due to dino oil varnish, comes completely clean 7,000 miles after changing to synthetic.
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:25 PM   #12
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no, I'm not stupid. I'm not

no, I'm not stupid. I'm not going to powerwash it like some people I know. I'm going to use compressed air to get all the dirt and little rocks out. Compressed air won't hurt anything.
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:30 PM   #13
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Re: 2¢

Quote:
Originally Posted by n0rt0npr0
While it seems true that the smoke would be from water its just not true.

An engine cannot create the temperatures needed to maintain visible water vapor for the 5 feet that seafoam takes to dissipate after exiting the tailpipe. The temperatures you are looking for come from sources such as nuclear power plants.

Some of that smoke you get is the oil that sits in the intake washing out and slowly burning due to the lowered CC temperatures that seafoam creates. (one reason why its so safe!)

Seafoam has a very small percentage of water which is why its so awesome too. Anyone thats ever replaced a blown (coolant side) head gasket would know. That coolant leaking into the CC makes that engine sparkling clean compared to any normal operating engine. That water is super heated and really gets all the carbon deposits out good.

Anyway AutoRX claims this and that...along with some seal leak protection: "Auto-Rx Ongoing Maintenance Plan...For continuous and long-term protection, 3 ounces of Auto-Rx® should be added with each oil change. In addition, you should continue to use non-synthetic oil for maximum benefit."

They got you!! Synthetic oil is the very best slow gentle oil varnish preventative and cleaner. AutoRX tells you to keep adding it because AutoRX somehow creates buildup along the oil seals to keep leaks at bay. Buildup is what were trying to oust! Where else is that buildup occuring?

Anyway, AutoRX says it takes 1500 miles...yeah thats prolly the same amount of time a change to Synthetic oil would take to remove varnish.

Wish I had pictures of all the dipsticks on all the car's I've owned! A dipstick that was discolored due to dino oil varnish, comes completely clean 7,000 miles after changing to synthetic.
I use synthetic all the time. Nissan people go with Auto-rx because it makes their engines run like new again. I've even found a website of a guy who has the same engine and how good it got cleaned up with Auto-rx. After I'm done with auto-rx I'll go back to synthetic but at least my engine will be cleaner.
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:36 PM   #14
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I'm just saying that since

I'm just saying that since you were running synthetic to begin with...your internals were never dirty anyway.

Now your intake and the top of your valves will still be dirty after you've run your AutoRX, so you still should pour some seafoam down there
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:37 PM   #15
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There's nothing particularly

There's nothing particularly wrong with powerwashing it. It's not like it's going to blow a hole in the block,
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:40 PM   #16
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Re: There's nothing particularly

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
There's nothing particularly wrong with powerwashing it. It's not like it's going to blow a hole in the block,
Cars are not waterproof. The car is only designed to get rained on and washed in the exterior. Power washing an engine bay is just asking for trouble.
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:41 PM   #17
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Re: I'm just saying that since

Quote:
Originally Posted by n0rt0npr0
I'm just saying that since you were running synthetic to begin with...your internals were never dirty anyway.

Now your intake and the top of your valves will still be dirty after you've run your AutoRX, so you still should pour some seafoam down there
I already did Seafoam like 3k ago. I'll do it again maybe in 30k.
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:39 AM   #18
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compressed air eh?... now

compressed air eh?... now why didn't I think of that. What kind of cannister do you use Compaq?
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Old 04-05-2006, 01:20 AM   #19
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Re: compressed air eh?... now

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Originally Posted by philmcneal
compressed air eh?... now why didn't I think of that. What kind of cannister do you use Compaq?
ROFL. I have computer cannisters but it will take a couple dozen of them to clean the engine bay. I'll just go to a local gas station and use the compressed air that is used to inflate tires.
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