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05-19-2008, 10:01 AM
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#11
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,831
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my thinkings are more along the lines of speed up slightly before the hill and coast down the hill. lets say 50mph and then neutral, maybe pick up 5mph to 55 down the hill and then re-engage to drive at say 50 or 45 for the next hill. I am taking advantage of the energy going down the hill to get part way up the next one but still not having the 2 second to 2 second trade off that you were talking about.
even if I continue to do this, I don't think I will do it on flat roads but simply take advantage of hills. I am a little on the lazy side so I want a good return for my efforts and I can't see much of a return on a flat road with this technique. it works good for me because there aren't many flat roads around here (or anywhere for that matter) it always seems to be some grade to the road either up or down. I appreciate the advice and will keep you posted. the best trip MPG that I have ever gotten was right at 40MPG. I am going to try to beat that on the way home. it is a pretty day and temps seem to be up.
also, that plastic sheeting that I was talking about earlier. just to clarify, it is solid (not like shrink wrap) it is about 1/8th inch thick so it is very workable and flexible to a point. I have it on my grill and pics in my garage. I like it because I get the affects of the grill block with out the unsightly duct tape and cardboard. it took a little more effort but it looks good.
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05-19-2008, 10:27 AM
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#12
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 217
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theholycow
My P&G cycles have been huge, taking as large a bite as traffic, safety, and not getting a ticket will allow. Sometimes it's been between 35 and 70mph, though usually my total delta is closer to 20mph.
Should I not do it in such huge chunks? Should I not do the tiny nibbles of 5mph that I can manage in traffic? It seems kinda pointless when I accelerate for two seconds then coast for two seconds.
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I think it depends on the conditions.
I drove to NY this past weekend, about 400 miles one-way. 98% highway miles. I was able to drive up the I-95 corridor pulsing in a variety of ways... started off with 65 to 70 mph, then went to 65 to 75, eventually settled on 60 to 70 when I could get away with it, maintained steady 65 on the uphills, etc. Worked well, almost hit 40 mpg (which was astounding to me). I did, though, have many people passing me.
It has occurred to me, though, that it will be just about impossible for me to get that kind of mpg on my daily work commute. My route is 1/2 highway and 1/2 city.
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05-19-2008, 12:20 PM
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#13
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,624
Country: United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dosco
It has occurred to me, though, that it will be just about impossible for me to get that kind of mpg on my daily work commute. My route is 1/2 highway and 1/2 city.
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I think P&G really shines in city driving, when you combine it with DFCO -- glide when you have some distance to go, DFCO when you're braking or will need to brake. After all, P&G has a lot more in common with normal city driving than it does with highway -- and at highway speeds aerodynamic drag shortens your glides a lot more.
My commute is 60% country/town roads and 40% highway. I'll get gas tonight and calculate my FE. When I was at a half tank it looked like I was getting crazy good FE, but now I'm down to a quarter tank and it looks like my distance is pretty normal...though it's been a long time since I've let it get down to a quarter, so I may have forgotten. I have been filling at half every time because I've been eager to see the results of my latest experiment.
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This sig may return, some day.
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05-19-2008, 01:19 PM
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#14
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Registered Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,652
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I'm pondering putting my wheel skirts on with industrial velcro type stuff. Use enough area of it and it should be safe...
Another thing I'm thinking of is a kind of 5 point mounting, 2 hinges/pivots at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock, a snap or catch at 12 o' clock and slotted thumbwheel clamps at 4 and 8. So how it works is, you undo the thumbwheels, top pops out of catch, and you lift it up.
Wondering actually if I really need to make a removeable one if I only cover what the undercurve of the bodywork allows, because that will barely cover the hub area of the wheel, then I'm pretty sure the wheel drops enough if I jack it up on a frame rail that I can undo the lug nuts then tilt the wheel back to pull it out.
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I remember The RoadWarrior..To understand who he was, you have to go back to another time..the world was powered by the black fuel & the desert sprouted great cities..Gone now, swept away..two mighty warrior tribes went to war & touched off a blaze which engulfed them all. Without fuel, they were nothing..thundering machines sputtered & stopped..Only those mobile enough to scavenge, brutal enough to pillage would survive. The gangs took over the highways, ready to wage war for a tank of juice
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05-19-2008, 05:28 PM
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#15
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,831
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coming home I got 38.8MPG. not my best but I got behind a school bus and the fact that I kept up that good of MPG gives me a good feeling for my next tank. I will probably fill up tomorrow and see how it went for the second tank with the WAI.
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05-20-2008, 10:57 AM
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#16
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Registered Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 188
Country: United States
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I've thought about this, and am going to try just having 4 holes that will line up with the lugs when it's jacked.
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05-20-2008, 11:00 AM
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#17
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Registered Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,831
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you still have to get the tire off though. you may be able to get the lug nuts off but what about the meat of the tire. many of the guys on here only have a little clearance between the tire and the skirt. depending on back spacing you may not be able to get the tire past the skirt and hub.
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