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Old 02-17-2007, 07:04 AM   #1451
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A point to consider about the injectors. I'll leave it as it is for now.

You get very good mileage. I wish I knew the percentage the somender grooves contribute by themselves. If my head looked a little easier to pull I might try them. How much aeromod have you done to your car? Sorry if I missed it. I blocked the grill openings and removed the air dam. Both at the same time. I am just barely keeping cool on the way to work. The thermostat never opens on the way home.

I need to do a legitimate test on the air dam drag.

Ernie
Me too! It would help me generate more work for my friend if I would know those before & after values.

I have done basically no aero mods. Maybe this summer? I got the car near the end of September and didn't really have a decent amount of time to get good baseline figures before the weather turned sour for the winter. I recently made an attempt to block off my grill openings by shoving cardboard in the slots. I also slid some cardboard in front of the radiator.
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Old 02-18-2007, 08:54 AM   #1452
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A possibel high idle fix

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This is just a wild guess based on how my Saturn acts: After I have done numerous glides by killing the engine with my injector kill switch, I have a high idle condition that I can't seem to get rid of. The only way I have found to correct it so far is to disconnect the battery cable for a several minutes. I would like to find a way to re-set the keep-alive memory in the ECU without having to disconnect the battery a reset my radio all the time.
On my 2001 SATURN SL I noticed that the idle speed is a motor not a solenoid. When warmed up I just pulled the wire. No more high idle. I have not been through a cold start cycle yet but I like this so far. No CEL yet. I'll let you know if that changes.

Ernie
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:20 AM   #1453
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Quote:
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On my 2001 SATURN SL I noticed that the idle speed is a motor not a solenoid. When warmed up I just pulled the wire. No more high idle. I have not been through a cold start cycle yet but I like this so far. No CEL yet. I'll let you know if that changes.

Ernie
I will try that the next time I get a chance. Thanks!
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Old 02-18-2007, 01:00 PM   #1454
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usedgeo -

Quote:
Originally Posted by usedgeo View Post
On my 2001 SATURN SL I noticed that the idle speed is a motor not a solenoid. When warmed up I just pulled the wire. No more high idle. I have not been through a cold start cycle yet but I like this so far. No CEL yet. I'll let you know if that changes.

Ernie
Oh Boy oh boy oh boy oh boy, I can't wait to research this!!!!!!

For ease of use, this would imply a switch to turn off the motor once the car is warmed up, right?

CarloSW2
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:45 PM   #1455
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I get a high idle about 800rpm until I think the emmissions clean up a little or I stop at a light/stop sign with no heater fan running and lights off then the idel drops to 650rpm and the gas burn rate drops to 0.1gph. I think I have a pulsing air bleeder and it buzzes to vary the amount of air it lets in past the throttle plate.

Today's gas run after almost a month of short trips looks like about 36mpg for the last tank mostly all short 5-10 minute drives a mile or 3 most of the time in the cold but I filled it right to the top without spilling any and was 0.1gallons over the measured ScanGaugeII reading which is withing 1% in a 10.7 gallon fillup . . . then driving home via mostly all back roads I got 48.8mpg WOO WOO so it is still running ok added 3cc GP7, 3oz Acetone, 2oz Xylene.
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Old 02-18-2007, 04:53 PM   #1456
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usedgeo -



Oh Boy oh boy oh boy oh boy, I can't wait to research this!!!!!!

For ease of use, this would imply a switch to turn off the motor once the car is warmed up, right?

CarloSW2
I just got back from driving around the "country block" to let the car warm up. When I got back into the garage, I left the car running and disconnected the idle speed connector. There was no noticeable difference even when I turned on the lights and the heater. I'll report tomorrow on how it does on my commute.
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:40 PM   #1457
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First tank on Protege was 28mpg. I have had problems with the eletrical system (replaced alternator, battery, belt) during this tank. Shorter trips and cold temps= bad mpg. I guess I can only go up from this.
I put the wrong numbers down on the last tank I ended up with 31.7mpg. So it was bas but not terrible.

I ended up with 35.1mpg on this tank. That isn't to bad considering it was the worse possible weather for PA (temps below 0 at times/10" snow). I did lots of EOC (it is so much easier on a manual transmission).

Once the weather warms up I will be getting +40 tanks all the time.
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:47 PM   #1458
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No need for frustration -- I EOC all the time in the Auto-Teg. The batt seems to have held-up and the starter will last as long as it wants. On high-speed Pulse/Glides you just have to rev-match back into D to save the clutch-packs.

RH77
I'd be more worried about the bearings spinning at thousands of rpm w/o lubrication. I mean, it's not instantaneous failure, but metal on metal with little to no lube probably increases wear a lot. You may have to replace the bearings in a few tens of thousand to a hundred thuosand miles with good clutch packs. Of course you may not care since a M/T swap could be in the future for all I know...
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I think if i could get that type of FE i would have no problem driving a dildo shaped car.
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Old 02-19-2007, 12:56 PM   #1459
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Today was a pretty good day for FE . Temps started off a bit low at ~15F but I still managed to get a 50+ segment this morning. By the time I rolled into my spot at work I had a 48.4 average for the morning. This afternoon was great! The temp was 40F according to Weatherbug and I had a 10-15 mph tailwind. This was good for a 56.7 segment on the way to pick up my wife. The headwind from there to home was still good for 53.1. Overall, I had 51.2 for the whole day's commute.

The disconnected idle speed control looks like it may have helped. I had 43.0 for the first leg of my morning commute and I did no EOC. This is one of my better numbers for this segment without EOC The engine idles at least 300 rpm's slower than it did before. When the engine is stone cold, I do have to feather the pedal a bit but within 1/4-1/2 mile it will idle without dying. If this becomes too big of a problem I may have to look into hooking up a switch for cold starts.
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Old 02-19-2007, 01:12 PM   #1460
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Of course you may not care since a M/T swap could be in the future for all I know...
Shhhhh.

RH77
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