just got here, some questions

[Bill in Houston]

Originally Posted by perris

I don't get it though...you can't get more out then you put in, if you expend x energy going up you should regain less energy going down

The reason it works is that when you are pushing the engine harder, you might get up to 30% efficiency, while at low loads you are at 20-something percent, if that.

[perris]

Originally Posted by Bill in Houston

The reason it works is that when you are pushing the engine harder, you might get up to 30% efficiency, while at low loads you are at 20-something percent, if that.

yup, that looks like it's correct as I saw from kps's graph

[GasSavers_StanleyD]

Originally Posted by Hockey4mnhs

you already figured out one of our proven ways off getting mileage. does the hilly route have slower speed limits? that might be a factor also

I pretty much traveled at the same speeds YET realized better mpg on the hilly road. On 95 I traveled from 65-80 and prob averaged in the mid to low 70s. On the hill it was prety much the same average but my range was more like from 50-85, with the 50 being near the TOP of a hill going up and 85 being near the bottom going downhill. But my averages were about the same. The distance was pretty much the same as well. One route is about 1 mile longer than the other, but that shouldnt matter when actually measuring gas mileage. Thats taken into account already when you measure gas mileage.

In any case, my hilly route produced better mpg. It MIGHT be because I was practing low-level P&G (pulse and glide)by trying to make it up hills with momentum (essentially gliding), pulsing up the last portion of the hill and coasting to a fast speed down the hill. At that time I hadnt even heard of Pulse and Glide

[Gary Palmer]

Welcome to GasSavers:

The phenomenon you are describing does have some validity, I think, but it is pretty counter intuitive. I had one trip where I went up the hill in 5th, with probably about 1/4 throttle. I was not able to go fast, but I just wanted to try steady. Coming back, I did EOC about 80% of the way back. I was pretty amazed at the mileage I seemed to get.

I removed the steering lock from my car, because one of the issues I was not comfortable with was the possibility of turning my ignition switch to a point where the steering lock engaged. On your car, since the odometer is electronic, you need to have the switch on, but with the engine not running, in order for it to operate. I don't think their is anything you can damage, or at least I haven't heard of any and if their was, I think someone here would have said something.

On your brakes, they have power assist, which operates off of the vacume from the engine running. With the engine off it will operate once or maybe twice and then you no longer have power assist. Technically you still have braking, but depending on the car it can vary from a little stiffer to feels like it's impossible to brake. You need to be aware of how that feals, if your going to do EOC and you need to be comfortable that you can still brake and steer the car, with no assist.

If your car is newer than 98, you can get a scangauge, which will give you a number of additional options, in terms of information. You still have to leave the ignition on, for it to work because it gets all of it's input from the ECU, whether the engine is running or not. If your car is older than 98, you can get a Super MID controller.

Good Luck!

[GasSavers_StanleyD]

Originally Posted by Gary Palmer

Welcome to GasSavers:

If your car is newer than 98, you can get a scangauge.... If your car is older than 98, you can get a Super MID controller.

Good Luck!

What about 98 cars as in my 98 Camry LE 4cyl 2.2
And how much do these scan thingys cost????

[zpiloto]

Originally Posted by StanleyD

What about 98 cars as in my 98 Camry LE 4cyl 2.2
And how much do these scan thingys cost????

Scangauge

[savoF3]

Actually it will work on any OBDII cars, all 1996 and newer.

[minic6]

You will hurt nothing by leaving your ignition on as you coast. There is nothing in your solstice that remotely resembles points. Ignition is achived by a relucter wheel on your crank and cams, signial is sent directly the ECM and then to the coils. When doing anti theft relearning on GM cars you have to leave the ignition on for 10 min. than 1 min. off, 3 times to relearn. So if that won't hurt it what you do won't Lots of techs. leave the radios on for hrs. with ign. on. So enjoy yourself and coast!

[perris]

Originally Posted by minic6

You will hurt nothing by leaving your ignition on as you coast. There is nothing in your solstice that remotely resembles points. Ignition is achived by a relucter wheel on your crank and cams, signial is sent directly the ECM and then to the coils. When doing anti theft relearning on GM cars you have to leave the ignition on for 10 min. than 1 min. off, 3 times to relearn. So if that won't hurt it what you do won't Lots of techs. leave the radios on for hrs. with ign. on. So enjoy yourself and coast!

thanx minic6, preciate it

now as far as that scanguage

I read the website and for the life of me it doesn't look like it gives real time gas mileage it gives a trip mileage

I have that already, I need something that gives me instantaneous mileage so I can control mpg real time

I can zero out my trip mileage and get a pretty good realtime but it's not practical to keep zeroing out the readout

ruins the wholle affect

[cfg83]

perris -

Originally Posted by perris

thanx minic6, preciate it

now as far as that scanguage

I read the website and for the life of me it doesn't look like it gives real time gas mileage it gives a trip mileage

I have that already, I need something that gives me instantaneous mileage so I can control mpg real time

I can zero out my trip mileage and get a pretty good realtime but it's not practical to keep zeroing out the readout

ruins the wholle affect

You can observe up to but no more than 4 instantaneous data points at once, and instant MPG is one of them :

Attachment 535

CarloSW2