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Old 07-21-2008, 09:44 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.I.D.E. View Post
Recharge your HHO battery with solar cell. Then you are not making HHO with the engine, recharge it at home if the solar is not enough.

Its dumb to use the engines alternator, when you can get the same power much cheaper from the grid, just have a separate battery for your solar cell to recharge and use it exclusively for HHO generation. Recharge it at home if the solar can't keep it charged.

Now you are making fuel (stored electrical energy) when you aren't even driving, use the electrical energy to generate HHO when you are driving.

Now you are improving you fuel efficiency without making the engine do any more work, and it might actually make a difference.

regards
gary
But then you've added 40 pounds to the car with an extra battery...
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Old 07-21-2008, 09:49 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Ven View Post
I misunderstood the concept of over inflation. The words are kind of deceptive.
Well, are we talking over inflation based on vehicle specs, or tire specs? Pumping a tire up to max sidewall pressure is often over-inflated based on vehicle specs, but is still perfectly safe to drive on. Going beyond max sidewall pressure would be over-inflated according to both specs.
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Old 07-21-2008, 09:57 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by R.I.D.E. View Post
Recharge your HHO battery with solar cell. Then you are not making HHO with the engine, recharge it at home if the solar is not enough.

Its dumb to use the engines alternator, when you can get the same power much cheaper from the grid, just have a separate battery for your solar cell to recharge and use it exclusively for HHO generation. Recharge it at home if the solar can't keep it charged.

Now you are making fuel (stored electrical energy) when you aren't even driving, use the electrical energy to generate HHO when you are driving.

Now you are improving you fuel efficiency without making the engine do any more work, and it might actually make a difference.

regards
gary
I thought of using the solar cell first. But this seems too expensive to charge a battery. I'm assuming I need a 250watt panel to do this correctly and the price of a 12v 240-250 watt panel is 1500-3000 bucks. Not worth it for me.
Maybe thats not what I need?

Next, my next step would be to pull it off the grid. Once again, though, I need to find out if it is worth it...

Which brings me right back to the reason I started this thread. I'd like to know how much FE I'm losing because of the 20 amps. Im running 4 cells in series parallel drawing up to 240 watts. I beleive RW gave me the best answer so far.

I didn't want to make this an HHO bashing thread.
If I seem a little sensitive, I appologize. I've spent the last 3 months d*cking with this stuff almost every single day. All I hear is that it won't work. Fine. I don't tell others their ideas are dumb, the way they do stuff is dumb(eh hem)or anything like that. I won't be destructive to anyone looking for help and I would expect the same in return. All I want to do is save $$. I'm not selling a damn thing.Once again, this forum is designed to help save money by gaining FE. So, I've finally got it working and now I need some idears.
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Old 07-21-2008, 10:01 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by bobski View Post
Well, are we talking over inflation based on vehicle specs, or tire specs? Pumping a tire up to max sidewall pressure is often over-inflated based on vehicle specs, but is still perfectly safe to drive on. Going beyond max sidewall pressure would be over-inflated according to both specs.
so what are people doing??? are they over inflating or inflating to max sidewall pressure? I guess I'm still confused
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Old 07-22-2008, 04:32 AM   #35
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The answer to your original question depends on the vehicle, and the variables could be extreeme. The better your mileage the greater the impact of additional engine loads.

Electricity here is cheap, less than 8 cents a kilowatt hour. The best engine will generate about 10 killowatts on 1 gallon per hour. Thats 80 cents an hour from the grid, or 4 dollars an hour at the pump.

Adding 40 pounds to your total vehicle weight of 3000 (approx) is insignificant.

You want to know the difference? Try it both ways and your question will be answered.

A decent battery will give you HHO for hours, not sure if the water in your generator will last that long.

regards
gary
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:21 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by R.I.D.E. View Post
The answer to your original question depends on the vehicle, and the variables could be extreeme. The better your mileage the greater the impact of additional engine loads.

Electricity here is cheap, less than 8 cents a kilowatt hour. The best engine will generate about 10 killowatts on 1 gallon per hour. Thats 80 cents an hour from the grid, or 4 dollars an hour at the pump.

Adding 40 pounds to your total vehicle weight of 3000 (approx) is insignificant.

You want to know the difference? Try it both ways and your question will be answered.

Also, my hydroxy generators are pretty low maintenance. I've been running them over 3 weeks now and they are all still full.
A decent battery will give you HHO for hours, not sure if the water in your generator will last that long.

regards
gary

Thanks for the reply. I know I need to get a deep cycle battery if I do this. You're right about taking power off the grid. It would be better to do this. Plus, I can always just charge the battery at work.

Also, I've been running these cells for over 3 weeks and they're still full.
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:44 AM   #37
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with tire pressure, most everyone I have talked to is putting to (or near) max side wall pressure. not over that level. there are a few that have pushed it a little over max side wall pressure but I am not willing to risk it.

the weight factor, I use myself as an example. I carpool with a friend to work and there are days when we must ride separate due to projects that we both have. I don't notice the difference when he is with me vs when he isn't (he weighs about 200 lbs) I do realize that there is a difference but I think it is so minute that it doesn't matter. in my application anyway. I wouldn't worry about the weight difference unless you were adding something stuid like 500 pounds or something.

also (and I am not trying to get in an arguement here) why not start a gas log? so many people claim gains with the HHO setup but very few have gas logs. if nothing else, you can keep up with your mileage and see trends. the graph on the gas log will show you a trend much better than raw numbers in a notebook.

and also, why have you replaced your clutch 3 times? I am not farmiliar with that trans but were they crap? did they have issues.

just curious.
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Old 07-22-2008, 06:53 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ven View Post
I misunderstood the concept of over inflation. The words are kind of deceptive. Shouldn't it just be considered proper inflation, or even "new inflations standard"?
Well, actually, "over inflation" is a very unclear term because people use it two different ways. One way it is used is to describe inflating the tire beyond the specifications on the car's recommended tire pressure/load label. The other way is to describe inflating beyond the maximum safe pressure rating stamped on the tire's sidewall.

My recommendation is always to experiment between those two numbers to find the best pressure for your preferred combination of handling, wear, soft ride, and economy (and I recommend sacrificing a minor amount of ride softness to gain in the other three areas). I do not recommend exceeding the tire's stamped maximum, not because I think it's going to fail, but because it is conceivable that after an accident caused by tire failure the insurance company could deny your claim.

Edit: On weight -- it's my observation that merely removing or adding weight has little effect unless you drive 100% dense city driving very aggressively and never coast. A lighter car can be driven that way at higher MPG because it can come from the factory with a smaller, more efficient engine or taller gears.
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