Civic VX -post your MPG

[sebass]

vehicle: 92 Civic VX (stock). New O2 sens
odo: 188k
MPG mods: 175 LRR tires.
last tank MPG: 49.82
city/hwy: 90%/10%
No hypermiling. No EOC. 1500rpms gears shifts.

I'm stunned. I was expecting crappy tank and instead MPGs beast produced monster 49.82 city numbers. 90%c 10%hwy. I can get 50mpgs+ hwy. I'm completely satisfied with those number. That's without EOC and any hypermilling but i did shift always at 1,500rpm and never ever above 2000rpms keeping beast in lean burn mode always! RED MONSTER!

I'm assuming some of you that get 60mpg is with hypermilling and EOC right?
I can't imagine getting 60-70mpgs with regular driving?

[add|ct]

^Some have seriously modified the vehicle as well.

What PSI are you running your tires?

[sebass]

Originally Posted by add|ct

^Some have seriously modified the vehicle as well.

What PSI are you running your tires?

44psi and first 15 miles was at 26psi. I also had mechanic rev up engine few times and took it for spin so it would have been slightly higher maybe putting me at 50mpgs. I also just added Seamfoam fuel injector cleaner to this tank and had a 60 mile highway trip for work so injectors just got a internal shower. It's suppose to be really great. Maybe I can get 50mpgs. I'm stunned i can do 49 MPG city. That's crazy! If i can squeeze one more mpg on whole tank i will be ecstatic. Honestly I think main thing is oxygen sensor. I would like at some point to have PCV cleaned but i do not know how to.

[bowtieguy]

the PCV valve is cheap...just replace it. i believe it's in the same location as my LX...under the throttle body. best thing to do is remove your IACV(and clean it), to gain easy access to the PCV. two birds, one stone!

[GasSavers_WD40]

Lifetime Fuel Economy: 54.67
90-day Fuel Economy: 50.74
3-tank Fuel Economy: 55.35
EPA Rating (% over): 43 (18%)
Total fills: 100
Total gallons used: 724.68
Total miles traveled: 39620.63
Average tank distance: 396.21

list of mods http://ecomodder.com/forum/emgarage....vehicleid=4173

[add|ct]

^WD40, may I comment on your mods and offer some advice in areas I'm fairly skilled in?

I was interested in your use of 0w-20 oil in your engine AND transmission.

Honda Genuine MTF is better for your VX if you want a 20 at operating temp(the first number only indicates how well it responds to colder temperatures, 5w-20 and 0w-20 is essentially the same thing), and it is a 5w-20 essentially; so you are really better off with their MTF for the sake of your syncros at least. However, I'd love to see a UOA of your 0w-20 oil changes.

Could you get a sample at your next oil change? In Canada, most heavy-duty truck service stations have Toromont CAT analysis kits from other oil experts I talk with. A sample tested is anywhere from $15-$30 US, not sure about the exact total.

Anyway, just to compare my UOA results using 0w-30 synthetic to your 0w-20. Of course, I'm in a warmer environment and my engine gets up to operating temperature slightly faster among other things. Just curious. However, if I could use 0w-20 in the winter here based on your UOA results, I'd consider doing that.

For your planned 'deep cycle battery', please don't get Optima. Get something like an Odyssey battery if you are going for a niche battery. In relation to that, an alternator kill switch? The VX already utilizes an eco charging system, as I'm sure you know, and is governed by the ECU. No sense in saving fuel if you have to replace battery more often or the alternator if it's fighting to recharge a battery that is fighting a no-recharge condition occasionally. Just commenting on your future mods, anyway, carry on. Unless, of course, you're doing the work of utilizing the kill switch plan for the alternator when you have the solar 12 volt panel on a bright sunny day working for you.



PS: Due to engine mounts needing replacement and ball joints/bushings needing inspection or replacement also, I have not pushed the PSI up on my newer 175 Destiny/Harmony/X-radial tires.

[GasSavers_WD40]

add|ct ..
I have used 0-5/20 synthetic oils in this car since I got it 100 tanks ago .. the MPG speaks for itself.
I use 0/20 due to the cold winters, then 5/20 in summer... the transmission was grinding gears with the factory fluids so I opted for 0/20 synthetic and that stopped the the syncros from sticking, I also just recently added Tungsten Disulfide or WS2 powder to the engine and transmission for extra slip. The car seems to coast forever now, I plan on using the same powder on the wheel bearings when ever I change them.

[GasSavers_WD40]

Sorry posted that to fast and forgot to ad that the Canadian VX did not include the ELD as they all have DRL so It would never be needed.
So the Canadian and European VX's do not have the special reduced voltage function that USA has, so that is why the alt kill switch would be required to allow a approx 10% increase in MPG

[add|ct]

Interesting, I have a Canadian VX. Didn't know that difference existed in the ELD vs DRL setups. I also was 'supposed' to have Daytime running lights, but don't.

The MPG wasn't my question, I'm curious in regards to a used fluid analysis to see the wear trend in your engine using 0w-20/5w-20.

I too do not like the Factory HG fluid, as it's Friction Modifier package wears out easily making the gears notchy again. However, I use Amsoil's MTF. I suggested HG Type-II MTF b/c it's more like a 20, since that is what you are using. However, as you know, the FSM originally suggested 10w-30 or 10w-40 engine oil, before they even had HG MTF available. This is why your synchros, in part, are crappy today. Honda didn't address this problem for years, and then changed to saying only use motor oil for a short time if you can't use their MTF.

BTW, I've used MoS2 in a product from Liqui Moly/Lubro Moly in US; in engine oil but don't know about it's use in the M/T as it's all gearing and 'could' hurt the synchros. Not sure if that's the specific area there, but I wouldn't add a powder but rather something formulated that won't drop out of suspension. Another reason to get a Used Oil Analysis.

I suppose the reason my CAN make/VIN VX doesn't have the Daytime running lights is perhaps a previous wreck or deletion, I don't see the FSM's image of the 'resister'(IIRC?) in the location specified under the hood nor do I have functioning DRL, but it could still have the relay under the steering wheel fuse panel area?

Perhaps there is an off chance my VX was made for US though CAN VIN?

[GasSavers_WD40]

AFAIK all NA VX's were built in Canada hence the Cdn. VIN.
So chances are yours was destined for USA and didn't get the DRL
I did use MoS2 on my 07 Yaris then I read that MoS2 was corrosive so I went with WS2, the powder is a non issue as the particles are 99.9% Pure, 0.6 micron APS, they seem to stay suspended to me, and reanimate easily.
I'm not concerned about getting a Used Oil Analysis as the car is already 20 years old with 320,000 kilometers.. if it was new then I would be concerned.