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Old 09-09-2007, 05:55 PM   #71
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new toy

after 15 years of Metro's , i got an economy car (truck) . Midget II
i don't have a pic yet but found one on the web that is the same color.
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Old 09-09-2007, 07:52 PM   #72
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I don't think it would be that hard to get a sub 30MPG car that is a classic. A friend of mine said they would always go cruising in his buddy's Buick that had a v-6 in it at 30MPG. Right now I can get 22-23MPG cruising at 55 without overdrive in an untuned engine currently.

I want to get a different car, this thread is great except that I am afraid of most of these cars as I am afraid of my life . But I am also afraid of other people's lives if I somehow run into them.

Last week I had decided on a 96 or newer Saturn s*1, though after reading this thread it is making me think of some of the other cars that turned up in my endless search.

Mercedes 190D diesel that is reported to get 40MPG with careful driving:
http://www.kenrockwell.com/190d/forsale.htm


Or maybe a 4-cylinder Mustang with a 5-speed, I imagine this could pull 30-35MPG or more:


I like the 240D Mercedes, but from what I understand the gearing isn't much good for highway netting it only 30-35MPG driving nicely:
http://www.murrayco.com/mercedes_240D_1982.html


I have been looking at the costs of owning a newer car (96 or newer), they seem pretty high compared to owning an old clunker without oxygen sensors and the like. But I may be wrong on that.
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Old 09-09-2007, 11:35 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by rh77 View Post
My Wife's friend is selling her '04 Cooper 5-speed and reports tanks in the 40's with a normal driving style. It's not the "S", but it's a blast to drive. The only downside is servicing it -- with the BMW engine....
The MINI from the beginning through the 2006 model year had a Chrysler do Brasil engine made in...... Brazil. the 2007 --> MINI has an engine that is cooperative joint venture between Peugeot and BMW. It is WAY better. There is a reason that the Chrysler lump was abandoned by BMW.
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Old 09-10-2007, 06:46 AM   #74
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why does everyone seem to want AWD? to me it would mean more things to break, tiny bit more friction and a bit more weight...
Yup... two more fluids to have to change, close to a 10% weight penalty and added drag created a 1 mpg EPA penalty (probably more in real world driving), along with a lot of expensive parts to replace.

When I ordered this overgrown hatchback (to replace a totaled minivan), I ordered it with FWD (and the smaller engine), but I hemmed and hawed all weekend about how I hated the feel of front wheel drive in many vehicles and this was one of them. Monday I called the dealer and asked to switch. The Accord feels great, but the FWD Santa Fe felt like my crappy old Horizon that I had a few cars back and drove far too long.

Anyway, for me it was about the handling. My offset on the mechanical risk side was to go longer on the warranty (we only get 5 years standard in Canada). My offset on the gas mileage side was to get a ScanGauge and improve my FE driving skills.

Had it been a RWD vehicle, I wouldn't have gone AWD.
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Old 09-10-2007, 07:49 PM   #75
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Mercedes 190D diesel that is reported to get 40MPG with careful driving:
http://www.kenrockwell.com/190d/forsale.htm
I would say the 190 isn't a bad bet...I have a 1991 with the 2.6L 5-speed gasser, and I can get 30mpg on the highway, and typically get about 27 mixed with the A/C on and keeping up or passing most people. I am betting on higher mpg if I ever get around to replacing the coil, cap and rotor...but just don't want to spend the $100+ right now. :-) If you can find a diesel with the manual, I am betting you can w/o any real effort see 40mpg!
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Old 09-10-2007, 08:25 PM   #76
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I would say the 190 isn't a bad bet...I have a 1991 with the 2.6L 5-speed gasser, and I can get 30mpg on the highway, and typically get about 27 mixed with the A/C on and keeping up or passing most people. I am betting on higher mpg if I ever get around to replacing the coil, cap and rotor...but just don't want to spend the $100+ right now. :-) If you can find a diesel with the manual, I am betting you can w/o any real effort see 40mpg!
How is the reliability on your Mercedes, I have looked at your car in the garage before as I had noticed it was a 190. How long have you had it? Are parts priced really bad and/or hard to find?

I am asking because I am coming from a car that costs 30 bucks for a rebuilt alternator and can buy a fresh short block for 500. I don't want to buy a car and end up having to do about the same amount of maintenance but it cost much more because of the parts.

Sorry if I am getting a tad off topic here.
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Old 09-15-2007, 05:36 AM   #77
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A Cummins diesel, manual trans, and a flat road should get you at least high 20s for gas mileage.
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Old 09-15-2007, 07:04 AM   #78
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I HATE those things! It's not just the bad fuel economy for having an engine as small as it does, or the craptacular .48 drag coefficient. It handles like a shopping cart with a bent wheel, it's as speedy as a forklift, it has all the grace of a bumbling Rush Limbaugh on oxycontin, has all the sex appeal of Gary Busey, and when floored it sure does go like a constipated snail! The ride quality is like getting groped by a hairy uncle with a well-endowed butt crack and all the trim pieces in the interior rattle worse than Michael J. Fox on crystal meth.
This is terrifyingly close to the truth. I had one.
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Old 09-15-2007, 08:01 PM   #79
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87 Shelby Charger GLHS



2300 lbs, 5-speed, FWD intercooled turbo -- easy 35mpg, only 1000 built, severely cool cars.
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Old 09-17-2007, 07:07 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by Fourthbean View Post
How is the reliability on your Mercedes, I have looked at your car in the garage before as I had noticed it was a 190. How long have you had it? Are parts priced really bad and/or hard to find?

I am asking because I am coming from a car that costs 30 bucks for a rebuilt alternator and can buy a fresh short block for 500. I don't want to buy a car and end up having to do about the same amount of maintenance but it cost much more because of the parts.

Sorry if I am getting a tad off topic here.
No problem. I have noticed that the ignition/tune-up parts are a bit higher, I think the cap and rotor will cost about $60, but uses regular plugs, and you can use the wires from an early 1990's 6cyl F150 (or you can use the Bosch wires for $150...your choice).

I have had it since January, about 8k miles so far, and everything works, but I will need new tires soon, so I might have to junk it. ;-) (kidding) I haven't done any other maintenance other than oil changes and such, although I am sure in the next 30 or 40k miles I will be changing a lot of misc. bushings in the rear of the car and the flex disk on the driveshaft...should cost me a weekend and about $150. I did get a clutch kit for it off ebay for $50 shipped...saved me about $400! Just depends on where you getcher parts, I guess.

If you are going to compare it to a generic car, it is more expensive...but it is also more fun to drive, and it has the tightest turning radius I have ever had!

Now...for another comparison...I had a 1992 Honda Accord that I bought new...and when the clutch starting having problems around 100k (throwout bearing), it was going to be about $900 for the clutch...about $300 more (shop prices) than my 190e. The alternator is about the same price as Honda (IIRC) as are the other parts in general. The 190 feels a LOT more solid...more of a tank for collisions for about the same weight as the Accord.

I got this car for $3000 off ebay...quick trip to Miami Beach...for a 1991 with 96k. It is still a 16 year old car...so there are always little tinker issues...just replaced the junky radio and wiring, and will probably do the ignition coil soon ($45). I *do* wish it had electronic FI...it has the old Bosch mechanical FI...but there is always Megaquirt if you are really into it. I won't since I want to convert this car to electric in the next year or two. Then it will *really* be a 190 E. :-)
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