Changed oil to 0W20

[add|ct]

Yes, I actually found it annoying to work with a self-propelled when I wanted to go faster.

...but back to the 0w20: Just realized you had just bought the car. My brain must not have been working.

Yes, if it calls for 0w20, then go for it! Especially in the winter, but you won't get the kind of cold starts in Florida during the summer(9 months of the year?) that would do any kind of engine damage from the type of oil in the car, since everything we're talking about is such a light oil anyway. So, if you can use the 0w-30 products you could always go for that if your in 90+ degrees for any long stretch(3-4 more weeks during change interval).

[theholycow]

Originally Posted by add|ct

Yes, I actually found it annoying to work with a self-propelled when I wanted to go faster.

Front wheel drive is the best for self-propelled push mowers. All you do is lever down slightly and you can go faster or slower or stop or turn...and if it ever breaks it's easy to just remove a gear and turn it into a old-fashioned push-it-yourself mower.

[i-DSi]

Originally Posted by theholycow

Since I've never had a vehicle suffer a failure that could have been prevented by different oil products/habits, have never known anyone who has, and asked a million times on forums but received only two third-hand stories, it is my determination that manufacturers' recommendations are good enough.

You are so right Holy Cow. Same here on the other side of the ocean. IF there's a lubrication failure it's never caused by using manufacturers recomanded oil. You should see some customers drive like mad with a stone cold engine in freezing temps. That's what might cause engine damage (but most of the time doesn't...).
It's not because you find one, two or even 5 cases where something goes wrong with lubrication that you should start doubting recomanded oil.
Coming back to the real topic: FE gains by 0W20. I'm not expecting big things coming month(s) as it's hot weather anyhow now and consumption should decrease. Sadly enough my consumption on dashreading went in the wrong direction (some traffic jam, city driving) just before changing to 0W20.
I'm driving a lot my motorcycle now to go to work (with fresh 10W30, just as Honda recommands...yes it's also a Honda ).

[shatto]

I am of the 'old school' that believes; "If a Little is Good, More Must be Better."

So:

1. When I switched from 50weight oil to Amsoil 0-W30 my MPG improved by 3 MPG.
.. GM Iron Duke 4-banger in my Sonoma.

2. Leaving the engine running for a 10 hour day, 4 hours at a time idling, all with the A/C on full blast did not bother the engine nor the oil, according to oil analysis.
.. Dodge Magnum 3.9 V6 in my Dakota......the engine that went 623,000 miles using Amsoil 0-W30 oil.

So I had to change my more is better thinking, and think.

Here is what I thunk.

Amsoil is an itty-bitty privately held company who cannot afford to B.S. and lie and over-hype their products because we customers would drop them like a lit grenade if they did, and they would be out of business.
Their products do exactly what they say they will do. More, in my experience.

So......I suggest some logical thought.

1. To meet our beloved government mandated regulations, car makers built engines that use lower-viscosity higher-performing oil.

2. Any oil that says; (Any number)-W(Any number) (0-W20)
means that, at operating temperature, the number after the 'W' is the viscosity of the oil. Period.

3. Guys don't follow instructions.

4. Changing to synthetic oil may not cause a MPG improvement.
But the engine will last longer and you won't have to change oil as often...if you do it right.

[bowtieguy]

went to advance auto today. it never occurred to me that mobile1's EP(extended protection) fully synthetic is more expensive than their "regular" fully synthetic. the EP has a "guarantee" to last 15k miles. other than that, what is the motivation to pay extra?

they(advance auto) have a really good deal right now btw--5 qts of EP mobile1 oil plus a mobile1 filter for $32.99. i believe individually the qts are $7.50, and the filter is $9.99, so it's well worth it. the regular fully syn mobile1 is $29.99 w/ the filter. but alas, i digress, so back OT...

perhaps the EP has a better, more expensive base oil? i'd just buy the reg stuff and save the $$$. no way i'd go 15k on a change interval anyway. i see they stock a 0w40 for euro cars as well. might be good for high mileage vehicles and lawn mowers...

[add|ct]

Yes, IMO, just go EP Mobil1 or buy Amsoil if you don't want to change the oil but 1 or 2 times a year, max. The others I wouldn't trust without knowing some things. For instance, I hadn't driven the car hard, yet drove it on an almost daily basis. I'd also make sure to change the oil filter 1 time in between if I going to 15k. Well, even to 10k, its worth changing 2x, IMO. That is for the best conditions possible, though, i.e. clean engine to begin with in good condition.

[Jay2TheRescue]

I use the EP Mobil 1 5W30 in my Buick. When you get the oil changed at Wal-Mart they don't charge extra for the EP over the regular Mobil 1. I figure the EP is better since the car can go for a year or 2 before it needs an oil change by mileage.

[add|ct]

Yeah, I think topping off for 1 year on oil of an 'awesome' grade with 1 filter change in between is as far as I'd ever go. Still waiting for said oil to come into existence.

[shatto]

Originally Posted by add|ct

Yeah, I think topping off for 1 year on oil of an 'awesome' grade with 1 filter change in between is as far as I'd ever go. Still waiting for said oil to come into existence.

Here Ya Go!

AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for extended drain intervals in unmodified, mechanically sound gasoline fueled vehicles as follows:

• Normal Service – Up to 35,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Severe Service – Up to 17,500 miles or one year, whichever comes first.
• Replace AMSOIL Ea oil filter at the time of oil change up to 25,000 miles or one year, whichever comes first (other brands at standard OEM* intervals).
• In all non-gasoline fueled vehicle applications, extend the oil change interval according to oil analysis or follow the OEM* drain interval.

Not a new idea.
Amsoil oil has been used for 30,000 mile changes since before there was a Mobil 1.

[add|ct]

Yes, I totally know about Amsoil. I was trying to be sarcastic. =)

A shop in my small town sells the 0w-20 for $9.10 a quart, but can acquire 0w-30 for the VX. I'm still converting the VX to full synthetic as it is. If I had the car new from the start I'd have done it my way, I'm sorta just 'babying' it over using high mileage Valvoline MaxLife, since it has extra detergents.

If I could get Amsoil cheaper I would, but I can't justify it since I'm not going to have long intervals...yet. =P

I'll be using 0w-30 Mobil1 next.