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Old 04-10-2006, 12:55 PM   #21
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Re: I wouldn't do that if I were

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVOboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Compaq888
I wouldn't do that if I were you. Yes the bigger sway bar will improve his handling but you need to make sure the tires hook up. Since his tires are thinner and overinflated a bigger sway bar will make him oversteer like crazy if he has traction or make him crash.

My advice is keep the stock swaybar and slow down a little. Bigger swaybars are meant for cars that have grip, using thinner tires and overinflated will just fuel the fire.
How will a bigger front sway bar increase his oversteer. Possinly a bigger rear bar would do this, but he has no rear bar and I am not suggesting he get one.
With his new setup he needs more body roll than stiffness. He just doesn't have the tire patch for a stiffer sway bar.
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Old 04-10-2006, 01:23 PM   #22
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body roll is badpicture a

body roll is bad
picture a slalom course...recovering from the momentum each time is costly on performance...
corrected with swaybars and/or stiffer springs puts the requirement more on the tires for adhesion...
so its a give and take...body roll puts alot of load on the outside tire adding traction to it...
steering must be compensated in either case
it comes down to driver preference given a single car
how they like it to feel...and how much sacrifice they will make one way or the other...

swaybars are useful in that you can use a softer spring for better strait line feel over bumps etc...less feedback...
then in cornering you get the added spring rate of both springs...
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Old 04-10-2006, 01:34 PM   #23
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incorrect assumption about

incorrect assumption about the sway bar. body roll is never good. and you really cant assume anything without knowing his spring rates, regaurdless of contact patch. it depends on if the car has a front swaybar. i doubt it has front or rear.

the cause of such oversteer, if there is the severe weight balance, is either brake, or throttle lift oversteer.

bottom line: stiffer front sway bar (or more lose rear) will help cure oversteer. if it has no rear bar, then the front is the only solution unless you wish to get stiffer rates in the front(my recommendation) but it seems comfort is prefered?
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Old 04-10-2006, 04:00 PM   #24
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I think he has 400 rate

I think he has 400 rate springs, but that's 100% guess.

Anyway, the sol should have a front bar, all the CRXs did, even the damn HF (I'm looking for an hf bar to put on mine). Only the CRX Si came with a rear (also looking for this, ).
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Old 04-10-2006, 04:50 PM   #25
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whats my incorrect

whats my incorrect assumption
there is no assumption in fact...
lol
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:35 AM   #26
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not you eiger, i agree with

not you eiger, i agree with you. refering the c888.

could we get some solid numbers on the spring rates? by 400 you mean lbs/in? and are they linear or progressive? factory is something like 198\96. these things definitely matter, especially if there is a problem with oversteer. usually oversteer without sway bars is cause by swapping the front and rear springs....

i have 450\360 progressive lbs/in on my hatch with a 21mm\22mm swaybar setup front\rear and the i could probably get mildly stiffer bars.
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Old 04-11-2006, 02:19 PM   #27
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They are ebay type springs,

They are ebay type springs, linear, 400 is just a guess. I'm getting skunk2 450/350 soon, excited,
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Old 04-11-2006, 06:56 PM   #28
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400lbs/in is a pretty high

400lbs/in is a pretty high guess for an ebay spring. those skunk2 rates seem pretty fun though, very similar to mine, and with those rates you will be happy you have nice fat gushy sidewalls
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Old 04-11-2006, 06:58 PM   #29
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, I'm excited to get the

, I'm excited to get the ****, need to whip up an ecu right now to pay for them,
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Old 04-11-2006, 07:25 PM   #30
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Every little bit helps. I

Every little bit helps. I have not waxed my car in 5 years so I'm going to hit it in a couple of days. Also my wipers are in the airstream on the windshield. I thinking of using rain-x, which works good in light to moderate rain, and removing the wipers and putting them in the trunk and if I need them I'll stick them on the drivers side.

I've also notice according to the scan gauge that with the belly pan and grill block I've now got a 25 degree increase in intake air and a 5-10 degree increase in water temp. With a 180 degree thermostat the water temp is 197 now even though the gauge runs where it always does. Now to figure out how to get my EPA image posted.
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